andrewt6447 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 I know, it's been done to death, but what I want to know is when does stuff like the cv's and bj's etc start to limit it? UCA's sort the bumpstop clearance out, but what is the next thing to limit lift? Anyone know how much extra extension over stock is safe before cv's start exploding? I'm making some uca's and want to know how stupid I can go with them.... Sas may come later, jeep etc diffs aren't that plentiful over here....or at least good ones... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 This is a great qustion. The boots limit them to roughly 25-30 degrees before they will start tearing when you flex. The joint them selves? From what I remember from auto class is 18* for the inners and 45* for the outers. But thats the breaking point so they shouldnt be that much. Because you have to allow for wheel travel. As far as inchs/mm. I have no idea, but it seems very common for the 4 inch lift kits to tear boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I think cranking the torsion bars until the upper control arms hit the stock bump stops would limit the amount of lift before effecting either the ball joints or the cv axles. If you were to install low profile bump stops to gain more lift than the cv axles and ball joints may come into play as to having too much angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 My own personal experience, AC UCA's, SAW t-bars, cranked until there is about a index fingers gap between the droop snubber and the bump stop, so 1.5 to 2 in. Aftermarket cv's bound immediately, I will report back with stock cv's rebuilt. This was on a moderate trail, nothing extreme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) I'm running about 3" of torsion bar crank up front with stock ucas and low profile bump stops and my cvs have never had a problem and I wheel at least once a week on 33x12.5 tires on 15x10 steel rims, i use the napa lifetime warranty cvs. they have been great for years, no issues, no torn boots. we will see how they hold up once i get the balljoint spacer welded in there as well, haha! Edited June 24, 2012 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I found that my TRE's limited my torsion bar cranking... Initially I was able to crank the b ars up very high, and after a week or so was in dire need of replacing the now shot tie rods... With the new set I had to lower the bars just to install them, which says something in itself as the how much I had them cranked.... At least now the front end flexes some, until it gets cut out... A few more parts....heheh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nztim Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I know, it's been done to death, but what I want to know is when does stuff like the cv's and bj's etc start to limit it? UCA's sort the bumpstop clearance out, but what is the next thing to limit lift? Anyone know how much extra extension over stock is safe before cv's start exploding? I'm making some uca's and want to know how stupid I can go with them.... Sas may come later, jeep etc diffs aren't that plentiful over here....or at least good ones... so.. newbie question here, what is SAS and acronym for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Generally Solid Axle Swap but the Brits say Special Air Service heheh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nztim Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Generally Solid Axle Swap but the Brits say Special Air Service heheh Ahhh thanks, yea I was imagining the special air services, and turning the pathfinder into a full on assault vehicle. which would be awesome but figured it was an unlikely scenario. haha. Glad I now know. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 u can do anything but once u add the balljoint spacer u are gonna break cv joints and i even dropped my front diff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I had the ball joint spacer upper control arms for years with the 2 stage torsion bars cranked, body lift, 35's and than 33's, (in the hardbody) never had a problem with the cv's. Went thru centerlinks and idler arms but they suck anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 I had planned on messing around with a complete IFS drop, doing essentially what the frameless (not gutless) R50 guys are doing with the SFD lifts. Basically lowering everything, yet keeping the proper CV and TRE angles... I have a drawing somewhere... in theory it would work... (in my brain its another story.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) I had planned on messing around with a complete IFS drop, doing essentially what the frameless (not gutless) R50 guys are doing with the SFD lifts. Basically lowering everything, yet keeping the proper CV and TRE angles... I have a drawing somewhere... in theory it would work... (in my brain its another story.) so, like the Trailmaster lift? I think a Trailmaster type lift would be cool if the torsion bar relocation brackets that were posted in another thread could be incorporated so the bars don't hang below the frams Edited June 25, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard32 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Ahhh thanks, yea I was imagining the special air services, and turning the pathfinder into a full on assault vehicle. which would be awesome but figured it was an unlikely scenario. haha. Glad I now know. ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Similiar to the TM 4 inch kit, however you are lowering the UCA rather then using the spindle attachments... I need to find that drawing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Anyone tried the Calmini? http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=38865&ProductId=103645 Just wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 Let me rephrase that, does anyone have suggestion as far as a lift kit that they are happy with? It's time to add another 2-3 inches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyC Posted July 19, 2012 Share Posted July 19, 2012 Are you going for looks or off road function? I've got the AC 3in kit, rear flexes great, the front has a lot of rake to it to keep the cv's happy. I hate to say it, but I would personally go the Mr. 510 route and run 33x10.50s keep the truck near stock height, low profile front UCA bump stops, super soft rear springs and shocks. That's my next plan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangdiver Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Looking more for functionality. I've actually lost the look thing from a crash. 510? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 (edited) Right, I've found the answer....at 640mm from the steel gaurd lip to the center of the hub, the CV's are starting to bind. That's only 15mm more than I had with the shock/bumpstop mods I had already. If you keep going they bind and stop any more travel. Everything else seems to be ok. I'm also going to suggest staying with stock arms with low profile upper bumpstops and slightly longer shocks, unless you wanna spend big bucks. Edited August 3, 2012 by andrewt6447 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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