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(sigh) lift kit help


Trevasty
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Tired old question, but all the info I've researched has my head swimming. What's the best lift kit for my needs/wants? I have a 98 pathfinder le 4x4. Going camping into deep woods is about as hardcore as my off-roading will get. I want to run 31"s but I think they would look stupid-snug in the wheel wells at stock height. I've heard good things about OME lifts, and I've been thinking their 1.75" lift would fit my needs. This one in particular http://www.cartserver.com/sc/cart.cgi

Considering my off road needs, would this be a suitable lift kit for me? Thanks you guys.

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Tired old question, but all the info I've researched has my head swimming. What's the best lift kit for my needs/wants? I have a 98 pathfinder le 4x4. Going camping into deep woods is about as hardcore as my off-roading will get. I want to run 31"s but I think they would look stupid-snug in the wheel wells at stock height. I've heard good things about OME lifts, and I've been thinking their 1.75" lift would fit my needs. This one in particular http://www.cartserver.com/sc/cart.cgi

Considering my off road needs, would this be a suitable lift kit for me? Thanks you guys.

 

I started with the AC 2" lift and quickly got bored. Check out this website for a sub frame drop. http://www.krfabs.com/product_detail.php?productID=2

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Tired old question, but all the info I've researched has my head swimming. What's the best lift kit for my needs/wants? I have a 98 pathfinder le 4x4. Going camping into deep woods is about as hardcore as my off-roading will get. I want to run 31"s but I think they would look stupid-snug in the wheel wells at stock height. I've heard good things about OME lifts, and I've been thinking their 1.75" lift would fit my needs. This one in particular http://www.cartserver.com/sc/cart.cgi

Considering my off road needs, would this be a suitable lift kit for me? Thanks you guys.

 

My :my2cents: the short answer would be...probably.

 

I've heard good things about the OME coils too, but have no personal experience with them. Based on everything I know now, I think everyone should jut go as big as you can the first time (cause you'll always find some reason to just get a little bit taller). So if I were you I'd just get the full 2" lift and some good 31's. That's about how I started and I took my family camping/exploring all over the Rockies for over 3 years. It might work well for you.

 

If I could start over, I would have gone 2" AC lift, 1" strut spacer, 1.5" front wheel spacers, and some 32's. I think that is an awesome setup that wouldn't have left me wanting for more only 1 year after my 2" lift and 31's.

 

Any ways, just my thoughts.

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Any links would help, seeing as I'm a virgin to off-roading, lifting, etc.

Rick 13, is a strut spacer the same as a leveling kit? That's what I'm inferring, but again I'm green to all of this and reall have no clue. I just want to do it right the first time and not have something impractical.

This is also going to be my DD btw.

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Also, I'd like to spend NO MORE than 800 for it, I'm on a budget here

 

$800 with tires or just the lift?

 

Unless your struts are relatively new, most will suggest you replace those and the strut bearings at a minimum when changing your front springs, so I'd figure that in. I am following Rick13's plan with the AC lift but probably going to try 33's because I'm glutton for punishment. Mine is a daily driver as well. Don't forget a set of manual Warn hubs too, they will help greatly with your mileage.

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Not including tires or rims (I can get a set of bfg t/a's for 500 new)

I really DONT want to run 33's. This size of these ideas/plans do sound awesome, but I'm just into being realistic as possible about this. As said, I wonder if (and have been told by some) that I shouldn't even lift at all. And what good is a big ole lift that won't get utilized to its fullest? Then I've just got a mall crawler, and that will NEVER be in my driveway. In short, I'd like to keep it as modest as possible. And again, all the links you could supply me with will help GREATLY.

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Well that's where I saw the OME lift that I included in my OP. I just don't want to turn my torsion bars up for a lift. Doesn't that usually lead to damage tithe bushings or something over time?

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Again I'm new, bare with me. I was told by a local store that claims to be "the leading experts in truck and suv customization in the midlands" that I did, and I should try just turning them up. It's got the nose dive thing going on

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Perhaps I'll TRY my wheel set up (15" steelies w/ the 31" bfg t/a's) and see if it rubs/touches anything. And if it does, I can just take em off and wait 3 weeks til I have the money for the lift, right?

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Well that's where I saw the OME lift that I included in my OP. I just don't want to turn my torsion bars up for a lift. Doesn't that usually lead to damage tithe bushings or something over time?

 

You won't have to worry about any torsion bars in an R50. If this is going to be your DD and your not worried about a rougher ride, go with the AC 2" lift from WWW.4x4PARTS.COM.

Go with the KYB-GR2 for struts in the front and Bilstens for rear shocks.

 

https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-suspension-package-p-1959.html

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Nope, coil spring front end. You can't go wrong with AC or OME springs, AC is just a little higher. You can run stock struts and shocks if you want also. I just suggested doing the struts and bearings because it's easy to do while the front end is apart. Then do the hubs. You should be able to do all that for below $800 easy. My struts were $70 total with free shipping and the hubs are less than $100 I think. Get the factory nissan strit bearings and the KYB struts of you do go this way. Post a pic of your rig as well.

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Thanks so much for the help.

Now, y'all say "hubs" as in "hub bearings"? How does this also tie into the whole lift/ride quality scenario.

And for these kits, other than the clamps, do I need any other specialty tools (or know-how) to install it? (I actually work in a shop and do struts/shocks once in a while when we get busy, believ it or not)

And while I know that alignment (toe and camber) is affected by lifts, will it be THAT noticeable being this small

Of a lift, as compare to a 4"+ lift?

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By "hubs" they mean locking hubs for the 4x4 system. The R50 has fully engaged drive splines from the factory. A set of Warn hubs will disengage the front end when 4x4 is not in use, and stop the CV's and front diff from spinning needlessly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a question on lifts also. What specs do you use for alignment after the lift? Altering the height of the body will render the stock alignment specs useless will it not? My buddy is an alignment tech & he asked me this question.

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Nope, coil spring front end. You can't go wrong with AC or OME springs, AC is just a little higher. You can run stock struts and shocks if you want also. I just suggested doing the struts and bearings because it's easy to do while the front end is apart. Then do the hubs. You should be able to do all that for below $800 easy. My struts were $70 total with free shipping and the hubs are less than $100 I think. Get the factory nissan strit bearings and the KYB struts of you do go this way. Post a pic of your rig as well.

 

Where did you get struts for $70 total?

 

I have been looking for cheaper GR-2's and the cheapest i could find was rock auto for just under $60 each. and then another $40 for a rebuild kit.

 

Share your secrets...

 

Thanks

 

-Kyle

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I have a question on lifts also. What specs do you use for alignment after the lift? Altering the height of the body will render the stock alignment specs useless will it not? My buddy is an alignment tech & he asked me this question.

 

You use the same specs as stock. Caster is not adjustable. Camber is adjustable only with the use of camber bolts if it's way out of spec after the lift, and toe should be adjusted per factory specs on the alignment computer.

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