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Firehawk
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I have a question on what MPG I should expect out of my 93 auto 4x4. I thought the original window sticker (paper) had it rated at 16/ 18 but I could be wrong. Well 3 weeks ago I filled the tank and drove it 95 miles over the following 2 weeks. The fuel needle was on 1/2 at that point (it acts up below that) so I figured it's inaccurate most of the time. Well it took 9.5 gallons to fill it back up. Not good. Well over the following week I drove 110 miles, filled up last night and I was at 10.2. Never went into 4 wheel drive and I baby the truck to the point I have people pass me cause I don't accelerate off a light fast enough.

 

The truck just passed emissions, has new plugs, wires, cap, CAT, runs great.. so my question is~ is this normal MPG for 110 miles and no issues with the engine? Just seems low for a V6 that as far as I know is in tip top shape.

 

Thanks!

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I have a question on what MPG I should expect out of my 93 auto 4x4. I thought the original window sticker (paper) had it rated at 16/ 18 but I could be wrong. Well 3 weeks ago I filled the tank and drove it 95 miles over the following 2 weeks. The fuel needle was on 1/2 at that point (it acts up below that) so I figured it's inaccurate most of the time. Well it took 9.5 gallons to fill it back up. Not good. Well over the following week I drove 110 miles, filled up last night and I was at 10.2. Never went into 4 wheel drive and I baby the truck to the point I have people pass me cause I don't accelerate off a light fast enough.

 

The truck just passed emissions, has new plugs, wires, cap, CAT, runs great.. so my question is~ is this normal MPG for 110 miles and no issues with the engine? Just seems low for a V6 that as far as I know is in tip top shape.

 

Thanks!

 

I don't see anything about tire size in your info but i will just go with the biggest stock size 31x10.50.

 

I have 3 paths and all get over 15mpg minimum city including my 92 which has a 6" lift and 33's and everything else to make it about a aerodynamic as a brick.

 

So 10mpg is telling me something is off,

 

You have alot of maintence stuff taking care of so your good there.

 

The only thing i ask there is when is the last time you replaced you O2 sensor you don't have it listed so just seeing if it is done.

 

Also a common problem is the auto hubs sticking on and causing the front drive train and cv's to move causing alot of drag and killing mpg.

 

I know when i'm in 4wd playing in the snow i get about 10 to 11 mpg.

 

So seeing if you have manual or auto hubs i swapped to manual for no more issues.

 

A easy way to test is make a mark on the cv or shaft somewhere and then go for a quick drive and see if it has moved. If you not in 4wd the front cv's should not turn.

Edited by wd21overland
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You are correct on the tire size~ I guess what you are saying is if a (the) front hubs are sticking that means they are spinning the front cv's, diff, and axle up to the transfer case? That makes sense to me. I will get my paint pen out and see what I can find out in the next few days.

 

edit: I have no record of the O2 sensor(s) being changed, that is on my short list of things to do.

Edited by Firehawk
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You are correct on the tire size~ I guess what you are saying is if a (the) front hubs are sticking that means they are spinning the front cv's, diff, and axle up to the transfer case? That makes sense to me. I will get my paint pen out and see what I can find out in the next few days.

 

edit: I have no record of the O2 sensor(s) being changed, that is on my short list of things to do.

 

Your correst front cv's, diff gears and front driveshaft will turn if there sticking on which is alot of drag my auto hubs were sticking causing the same issue a few years back.

 

And yeah the O2 sensor can typically fetch a few mpg's if its causing you to run rich and most emmission test don't catch all the time since there looking for nox more so always a good thing to replace there can be bought for cheap at www.rockauto.com and makes sure to use the forums discount code for 5% off.

Edited by wd21overland
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Don't baby the throttle so much. Its under powered so if you don't get it into its torque band you will waste more gas accelerating.

I'm not saying take it to red line but 2800-3500 rpm is a good range for torque to MPG ratio.

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Don't baby the throttle so much. Its under powered so if you don't get it into its torque band you will waste more gas accelerating.

I'm not saying take it to red line but 2800-3500 rpm is a good range for torque to MPG ratio.

 

Agreed

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I got 18.47 MPG on my last tank, (I actually average about 18-19). I baby mine as well - I usually don't rev past 3.8k. By half tank, I've usually got 160 or so miles on the clock. I have a manual though, which helps.

 

How are your tires wearing? Are they filled properly and whats your alignment like? Also, do you have a crap load of tools in the back? Check the air and fuel filters as well. Those can really affect mileage.

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I find it hard to believe that you passed emissions testing and have failing components. Can you post the actual test numbers?

 

I'd guess driving habits, brake drag, tires (inflation and tread type), etc but this still shouldn't drive it down to 10 mpg. The only time I have gotten that poor mileage is when I only drive to and from work, 5 miles each way, warming it up, with stop lights and never exceeding 50mph. :shrug:

 

B

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I can probably get the paperwork from the last emissions test from my Aunt this weekend as I need to go drop off a payment : ) And as for tires the truck drives straight as an arrow and the tires are almost brand new so I don't think that could be the issue. It almost sounds like the hubs may be dragging b/c when I first got the truck I put it in 4 wheel off and on and got the same mileage. Again, I will check out the front end as soon as the weather clears up.

Edited by Firehawk
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When you drive in 4x, the automatic hubs engage. When you put it back to 2x, it disengages at the transfer case, but the hubs are still locked. You have to drive it backwards a bit to unlock the hubs. Not sure how far exactly, it should be on the little card in your driver's sunshade though. :) More than a couple feet, though. When it snows here, I engage 4x, locking the hubs, and then pop it in and out as needed (the hubs remain locked, I'm just shifting the transfer case). When it melts, I drive it backwards up my driveway in 2x, and the front hubs let go.

 

I actually forgot to disengage the hubs this year, and when I finally did, I noticed that my steering felt lighter and the truck pulled harder. I'd been wondering what was wrong with it! Dunno what it was doing to my milage, but I can't imagine it helped.

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When you drive in 4x, the automatic hubs engage. When you put it back to 2x, it disengages at the transfer case, but the hubs are still locked. You have to drive it backwards a bit to unlock the hubs. Not sure how far exactly, it should be on the little card in your driver's sunshade though. :) More than a couple feet, though. When it snows here, I engage 4x, locking the hubs, and then pop it in and out as needed (the hubs remain locked, I'm just shifting the transfer case). When it melts, I drive it backwards up my driveway in 2x, and the front hubs let go.

 

I actually forgot to disengage the hubs this year, and when I finally did, I noticed that my steering felt lighter and the truck pulled harder. I'd been wondering what was wrong with it! Dunno what it was doing to my milage, but I can't imagine it helped.

 

3-10 feet.

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I'd guess driving habits, brake drag, tires (inflation and tread type), etc but this still shouldn't drive it down to 10 mpg. The only time I have gotten that poor mileage is when I only drive to and from work, 5 miles each way, warming it up, with stop lights and never exceeding 50mph. :shrug:

 

Yes, my 3 mile commute Kills my MPGs in the winter. If I hop in turn the key and go down the road before the starter has stopped spinning I can make it home before the temp needle even moves 1/16 of an inch.

 

Do you make allot of short trips?

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No real short trips per say.

 

 

OK I was able to verify the front wheels do spin free of the CV's so I know it's not dragging. A few well placed paint marks (one on inside of rim other on cv boot) did the trick nicely.

 

Picking up all the service paperwork Saturday and I will go from there. I don't recall seeing anything about an O2 being replaced when I first looked at the paperwork so that may be my 1st thing to replace.

Edited by Firehawk
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