elcid Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 So I went to my local canadina tire to purchase some gear oil. According to my info I printed out, I needed to purchase Open differential - APL GL-5 SAE 80W90 for my open/or LSD differentials. However, the only oil I could find is API GL-4 / 5 compatible SAE 80W90 gear oil ( Canadian brand - Motorcraft ) Is this oil the correct one? I assume maybe I wrote down the name wrong as the bottle says API GL-5 SAE 80W90 not APL Can someone please verify this info? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 That is fine for use in the differentials. Do not use it in the manual transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elcid Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 That is fine for use in the differentials. Do not use it in the manual transmission. Thank you SIR! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Just an FYI, I think most people end up running 75W90 gear oil in their differentials because it is much easier to find than 80W90. Personally I think this is fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Just an FYI, I think most people end up running 75W90 gear oil in their differentials because it is much easier to find than 80W90. Personally I think this is fine... Most 75W-90 gear oils are also synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 (edited) So I went to my local canadina tire to purchase some gear oil. According to my info I printed out, I needed to purchase Open differential - APL GL-5 SAE 80W90 for my open/or LSD differentials. However, the only oil I could find is API GL-4 / 5 compatible SAE 80W90 gear oil ( Canadian brand - Motorcraft ) Is this oil the correct one? I assume maybe I wrote down the name wrong as the bottle says API GL-5 SAE 80W90 not APL Can someone please verify this info? thanks You're all good. API, not APL GL5 for differentials GL4 for manual transmissions many people also run GL4(myself included) in the transfer case with no seeming ill effect. Personally, I prefer to avoid lube with multiple compatibilities, as its not optimized for any one of them, but we just had a huge thread on drivetrain lubricants that I don't really want to resurrect. Edited February 3, 2012 by RJSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elcid Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 You're all good. API, not APL GL5 for differentials GL4 for manual transmissions many people also run GL4(myself included) in the transfer case with no seeming ill effect. Personally, I prefer to avoid lube with multiple compatibilities, as its not optimized for any one of them, but we just had a huge thread on drivetrain lubricants that I don't really want to resurrect. Thanks everyone, you guys rock! I will be doing some major lube work on the pathy tomorrow! Hopefully I will be able to remove the filler holes in the transfer case, rear and front axle! I hear it can be a bitch! Also, thanks to you guys, I have been warned to remove the filler first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Hopefully I will be able to remove the filler holes in the transfer case, rear and front axle! I hear it can be a bitch! Take out your fill plugs first, it would suck to drain the fluid and then not be able to fill it back up. Remember to overfill the tranny. Either jack it up so you can put more in through the fill plug, or do the shifter fill method. Its in the how to section I think. If you plan on using a 1/2 drive breaker bar and it starts to strip the plug, and you have a Harbor Freight nearby, buy this.... Drain Plug Set Use a 20% off coupon you can get in damn near any magazine, and the 13MM square drive will be your new best friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 x2 on the drain plug tool. 13mm works for the diffs/tcase/manual trans. 1/2" *will* round out the holes. 5.5qts in a manual transmission. I had to take the front seats out and lift the shifter mechanism slightly. I tried jacking up the truck, but was afraid I'd tip it, I had to lift it so high on the drivers side to get the plug high enough. Plus, I wasn't comfortable crawling under it with it at an angle. If a jack stand were to kick out, its pancake time. If you pull the seats, be prepared to deal with rusty fasteners. Drill/retap may be in order. Use antisieze on the plugs, and any other fasteners(seat mounts, esp) to make it easier next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) The OP has an automatic transmission, so overfilling the FS5R30A transmission is not applicable to him. ++ on the drain plug set. Attempting to use a 1/2" head to remove the filler plug on my rear differential started to round it out. Edited February 4, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I had to take the front seats out and lift the shifter mechanism slightly. I thought I was the only one. Everybody made it seem like it was simple and took 10 minutes to get the shifter boot out. I had to rip out the front interior! The OP has an automatic transmission, so overfilling the FS5R30A transmission is not applicable to him. Carry on then! Oh, since you have an auto, get a tranny cooler if you dont already have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 ...but we just had a huge thread on drivetrain lubricants that I don't really want to resurrect. and on the third day...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I've never had a problem using my 3' 1/2" drive breaker bar on fill/drain plugs. Sounds like you guys have some cheap stuff. Mine came off of a snap-on truck and is probably the most expensive tool I have. But good lord has it paid for itself! I will also suggest, unless you know absopositively that you have an open differential, get limited slip additive. It has been my experience that wd21's, more often than not, came with LSD's. Even the XE's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I've never had a problem using my 3' 1/2" drive breaker bar on fill/drain plugs. Sounds like you guys have some cheap stuff. Mine came off of a snap-on truck and is probably the most expensive tool I have. But good lord has it paid for itself! I will also suggest, unless you know absopositively that you have an open differential, get limited slip additive. It has been my experience that wd21's, more often than not, came with LSD's. Even the XE's. Many gear oils found in parts stores already contain LS additive. It'll be stated on the bottle whether it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elcid2010 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Thanks everyone for the help!!! I managed to change all the fluid yesterday!! I went to my local parts store looking for the 13mm. The parts man offered a 1/2 plug but I declined thanks to your earlier replies which armed me with the knowledge to get a 13mm instead. Got home and man, taking them plus out, what a chore!! I don't have a breaker bar and I didn't know how tight thet plugs were! I fought with the rear axle first the the transfer case etc. I managed to finally free the rear axle plug by going into an embryonic position, hugging the rear tire with between my legs and chest and pulling that damm wrench. The front was done the same way. The transfer came came loose by slowing putting pressure on the wrench with my legs. Judging by how tight the bolts were , I don't think any of the fluids have ever been changed. Oh btw, all the bottom plugs are magnetized and were saturated with metal dust. Cleaned them up. The odd part. The front axle came out looking quite clean, almost new oil clean... Odd? The transfer case oil was brown , rear as well The best tool I bought for the job, manual fluid pump. What a life saver!! One hose goes intake, one outtake and you pump!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I really wish someone had snapped a pic of said "embryonic position" : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I don't have a breaker bar and I didn't know how tight thet plugs were! Yea after doing a job like that once, you realize a breaker bar is a must have tool. You quickly find uses for it if you do any work under your Pathy, or other car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Agreed, you can pick up a breaker bar for about $25 and once it has prevented someone from seeing you in an embryonic position, it has paid for it's self. As for your fetal contortions, I had to do something similar. I had to anchor myself via legs to a tire otherwise all I did was pull ups underneath the Pathy hanging from the breaker bar handle... The front axle came out looking quite clean, almost new oil clean... Odd? The transfer case oil was brown , rear as well Odds are that it hasn't been in 4WD much. The front differential only turns when 4WD is engaged. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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