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I really need new tires...


Towncivilian
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It's been raining all day. On the highway on-ramp I hydroplaned going about 50mph after starting to accelerate to merge, and I ended up facing traffic. There was a cop who pulled up who asked if I was alright, and asked if there was any damage (thankfully there was none). I said yeah, and then he asked if I wanted to just continue driving. I said yeah, and we waited for traffic to clear out of the right lane and I slowly merged and got off at the next exit, which was my destination anyway. The cop followed me for a while.

 

This is the on-ramp in question: http://g.co/maps/9yv2h

 

This is the second time I hydroplaned severely and ended up facing traffic, with no damage. Last time was here: http://g.co/maps/vcjhp

 

My tires are getting pretty bald, so I need to get some new tires soon. I currently have Yokohama Geolander HT/S tires. I never go offroad, have a worn stock suspension, no 4WD, and an open diff. Anybody got any tire recommendations?

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This is the second time I hydroplaned severely and ended up facing traffic, with no damage.

 

Anybody got any tire recommendations?

I'm glad there wasn't any injury or damage, but... the second time?? SLOW DOWN!!

 

That said, even though you don't go off road most AT tires perform admirably in wet weather, and you have the benefit of better traction if you ever need it. I cant see getting aquatreads for more $ if an AT is virtually as good. I highly recommend the Yokohama Geolander AT/S. They are on the wife's 1999.0 Pathy and I think they are great. No noise at all, great wet traction, no noticeable rolling resistance and a reasonable price. Most here that has these tires likes them.

yokrhb.ang.jpg

 

Another good all around tire is the Michelin LTX M&S. The price should be close to the same and again, most here who has had them liked them for what they are.

mi_ltx_ms_ci2_l.jpg

 

The BFG AT KO is another great tire, but in all honesty if you don't intend to off road much I think the Yokohamas are a better choice. If you are off road a lot, then the BGFs are the ones to get.

bfg_alterr_tako_ci2_l.jpg

 

B

Edited by Precise1
Edited everyone to most. Bad claim...
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I wasn't going excessively fast - one needs speed to merge on the highway sometimes! I was going maybe 50mph and I started to accelerate (not WOT or anything crazy) and started hydroplaning.

 

I'll look into those suggestions, thanks B.

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If u feel it spinning...lay off the gas and don't touch the brake and steer towards the ass end or let it straighten out on its own...

 

just today I had to recover from a fishtail gone bad...I slung the taco around a corner and when i straightened back up it wanted to go the other direction so i had to fix all of that...I've drawn the conclusion that I don't like leafed suspension on a pickup truck BC I've actually had my taco jump out on me on dry pavement

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I wasn't going excessively fast

not to say you were going to fast period, but when knowing you have tires you can see the air through it's time to let off a little more than normal till you get some grip. Slow down don't always mean someone thinks your a speed freak

:beer:

 

I agree on the A/Ts as good suggestions as well. Those suggestions B put up are good. The BFGs are time proven and proably one of the most well known and the Yokohomas seem rather loved around these parts

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man this is crazy. I have some mismatched semi-worn BFGs and Goodyear Wranglers. They are both mud + snow tires and they look very meaty, but they are wearing down. I think the two back ones are 30% and 50%, the front ones are like 70% and 20%.

 

Unless I floor it, they still have amazing traction. Today I went drifting in an open parking lot and I could only spin wheels into 3rd gear.

 

I think BFGs are a very good option. You can get re-treads for only about $90 a piece. Then you will do well in the mud, the snow, the rain, and in general they will have great traction.

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BFG AT do no better in the mud than most AT tires, which = not impressive. Hey, they weren't designed for it... :shrug:

 

 

not to say you were going to fast period, but when knowing you have tires you can see the air through it's time to let off a little more than normal till you get some grip. Slow down don't always mean someone thinks your a speed freak

:beer:

Sorry he said it better than I did the first time. Slow down just means whatever you have been doing is too fast (regardless of how fast it is) if spinning out is a repetitive thing!! I'm just concerned about life and limb. That's why I recommended a few... ;)

 

B

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I'll probably go with the Yokohamas, since I feel I've gotten my (well, my parents') money's worth out of my HT/S tires and I can't think of a reason to complain about them (other than the fact that they're getting bald, I mean). I'm also thinking of replacing struts all around since they're undoubtedly getting tired at 130k miles.

Edited by Towncivilian
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man this is crazy. I have some mismatched semi-worn BFGs and Goodyear Wranglers. They are both mud + snow tires and they look very meaty, but they are wearing down. I think the two back ones are 30% and 50%, the front ones are like 70% and 20%.

 

Unless I floor it, they still have amazing traction. Today I went drifting in an open parking lot and I could only spin wheels into 3rd gear.

 

I think BFGs are a very good option. You can get re-treads for only about $90 a piece. Then you will do well in the mud, the snow, the rain, and in general they will have great traction.

 

You seem to have a problem with your mouth, and that's repeated vomiting from it. You don't need to post in EVERY thread. Seriously.

 

BFG AT K/O's are a kick ass tire. But, I am a BFG Fanboy. But if you spun on that ramp, you need to get new tires before you drive much more, that's just plain dangerous, you're not only endangering yourself, but most others around you.

 

http://g.co/maps/e7ecf

 

I can hold this off-ramp at 60mph with my AT K/O's @ 60mph with the ground wet, and there being light rain.

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You seem to have a problem with your mouth, and that's repeated vomiting from it. You don't need to post in EVERY thread. Seriously.

 

My mouth doesn't type. But I get your point. You're right. Sorry for the over-activity. This forum is just something new for me. I'll tone it down. Maybe even in a few weeks I'll get bored and leave.

 

Anyway Towncivilian, the BFGs are highly praised, but they would be overkill if you never go off road. Besides, you seem like the type of guy who would be more interested in the chemical composition of the rubber. Tell us how the Yokohamas turn out.

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I recently put some firestone destinations on my titan and they have surprisingly good traction in the rain and on dry roads. I don't get as many accidental spin outs. You are right about your struts too. A worn out strut won't keep your tires on the road as well giving you less traction.

James

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I always found it odd that some people said their BGF AT KOs were really good in the rain and snow while others said they were terrible. I always figured it was a difference in expectation and driving habits, but yesterday I saw this...

 

NOTE: While most BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO tires meet the industry's severe snow service requirements (and are branded with the mountain/snowflake symbol), selected tires do not. Specific tires/sizes not meeting the industry's severe snow service requirements are identified with a "Not Rated For Severe Snow" notation on the Sizes & Pricing, as well as on Specs.

Quoted from the Tirerack web site.

 

It seems that some are better than others for snow (and one would assume wet as well) so buyer be warned and dont assume. Or just move the hell away from snow... :tongue:

 

B

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I know it is common practice to replace the strut mount & bearings when replacing shocks. Are these the correct parts to replace?

 

[54320] STRUT INSULATOR

[54325] STRUT BEARING

 

Are those the only two parts I need to replace? I gleaned that info from this post.

Edited by Towncivilian
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I know it is common practice to replace the strut mount & bearings when replacing shocks. Are these the correct parts to replace?

 

[54320] STRUT INSULATOR

[54325] STRUT BEARING

 

Are those the only two parts I need to replace? I gleaned that info from this post.

 

 

I don't think replacing the strut mount gets you anything unless the original is cracked or damaged in some way. Definitely replace the strut bearing with OEM.

 

Except the struts themselves, of course, those should be the only parts needing replacing.

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