Some help patching her up...

[gregnash]

So my 93 Pathy finally has hit over 200k miles and she is starting to show her age. I will be moving on to another vehicle in the near future and the wife and I plan to give this to a friend that needs A) something with 4 doors (currently she drives a VW Rabbit convertible in the High Desert winters), and something with 4x4 for those few weeks every year that we get some bad snow/ice.

 

Anyways, here is a list of things I know need to be done to her and I would like to get some wrenching time in instead of necessarily paying a shop....

1) Driver's side door lock is no longer operational and when a key is inserted and you attempt to turn you end up forcing the entire lock to turn

2) Power door locks no longer function. You can hear that the lock is attempting to move however something is either gummed up or there is a short

3) Rear hatch causes interior lights to turn on ALL the time (remember reading about this as an easy fix but cant seem to find the thread)

4) Heater blower has something in it and thus has a very loud hum as though it is being thrown off balance (think some leaves got in there)

5) Hard shift when cold. Seems to happen mostly when it is cold but comes up every once in a while where it will not shift from first to second without either A) me dumping my foot in it hard or a pull over and restart

6) Drivers window has a small catch at bottom of roll down

7) Passenger window rolls up VERY slowly in cold weather

8) Brakes are due for a change (how hard is this to do with ABS? Am I better off taking to my local $99 brakes)

 

She needs a lot done to her but she is very driveable and dependable. Only reason I am planning to get rid of her is because I need something bigger (and have been in love with FJ60s for years)to haul the dogs, bikes, etc. around. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get and FSM or will a Chilton's be fine for most of the work?

[1994SEV6]

Damn. Like half of your problems are power windows/power locks. For the locks, your timer is off/broken. for the windows, your window tracks are creating too much resistance. Clean them out and lubricate them.

 

Your blower motor is clogged with leaves and other debris. Clean it out to prevent a fire. There's a thread in the how to section.

 

I don't think changing brake pads is affected by ABS. These vehicles only had rear wheel ABS, so changing your front pads is no big deal.

 

I've heard this hard shifting problem a lot. It's probably something to do with the fluid (it might be improper, old, or dirty) or the transmission could be on it's way out.

Edited December 13, 2011 by 1994SEV6

[gregnash]

Thanks for the info. Was hoping that the window/lock issues were simple. Shop quoted me over $500 for the locks alone be it that they got in there and motor/actuator was bad. Windows was same thing on the chance that the motor was going. Basically when the recently replaced the starter they didn't pop the door panels to take a look. I need to pull it into the garage and see about popping the door panels myself.

 

Tranny was replaced shortly after we bought it (so about 5yrs ago) and it was a remanufactured. Fluid hasn't been replaced since then but have probably just driven it the 15k miles. I will have to pull the tranny dip stick and take a look see how she is. Probably could use a tranny/tcase flush. Unfortunately, new job has funds severely limited so I am trying to do as much as I can on my own with what I have.

[nunya]

THIS is the FREE FSM dl thread

 

Rear hatch switch adjustment can be solved by a simple adjustment or washer addition (some people just disconnect them as well but to each their own)

 

THIS is the blower resistor/cleanup how to

 

does the transmission have the stock cooler bypassed and an aftermarket external one? the factory one clogging is the general downfall to the autos.

 

As for the brakes, it need front, rear, both, rotors as well, rear disc or drum brakes, etc etc... little more info there and the right ammount of info can be passed on

[Precise1]

Ok, Nunya set you up.

 

Download the Factory Service Manual and take a look. Seems like a lot of it is just cleaning, lubing and maintaining but the brakes are important to address.

 

B

[Slartibartfast]

Whatever you do, don't put graphite in the door locks. I did, and while it certainly got the driver's lock working again, it made the power locks go psycho. For the windows, roll them down and spray some silicone spray in there. I've heard that does wonders, but haven't done it yet. The door panels are pretty easy to get off, little more difficult to get back on. (If you put a drinking straw through the lock hole, and thread that onto the lock stem before lowering the panel, you'll save yourself a ton of fighting with it.)

 

Might also want to consider doing the timing belt. When those go bad they eat valves.

[RJSquirrel]

I've done the silicone spray on the door window tracks. Makes everything work like new. Truly amazing. If the locks are beyond repair, Alkorahil can set you up with a complete set of locks(doors/ignition/glovebox)for about $150 or so. I replaced the complete set of them in my Hardbody pickup in an evening, including pulling and replacing the door panels, drilling out the security bolts on the steering column, and putting it all back together.

 

Your rear hatch switch is dirty. In fact, it sounds like most of the switches are dirty. Sounds like a good cleaning/lubing of each is in order.

[gregnash]

Figure that if I get time this weekend I will attempt to pull the door panels off and work on the windows/locks at that point in time.

 

I remember there being a write-up for the rear hatch issue but since the site changed I cannot seem to find it (has been at least a year since I was on here last. Now that I actually have a house with a garage I need to invest in some things like a 1ton jack, jack stands, ramps, wheel chauks, etc. so that I can do stuff like this and then when I get my FJ60 I can do my own work there too.

 

Nice tip with the drinking straw Slartibartfast, definitely will save some time and frustration.

 

As for the stock or aftermarket tranny cooler, I believe that it is just the stock one so I will have to crawl under the truck and find out. I remember there being a big write-up/post about doing a small parasitic one that was from like a ford escort or something but again cant seem to find it.

 

Appreciate the help and the FSM!!!

[gregnash]

well finally got a chance to check the Tranny oil and seems fine. No weird smells and still has a slight redish color to it. Next thing will be to tear into the dash and doors this weekend to attempt to remove debris and clean up locks/windows. I have listed it on CL to see if I can get any bites for it as I found a local cruiser that I would like to purchase. I need to take some pics of her when she is clean so I will post some up here.

[gregnash]

Cleaned out the heater area as prescribed by the thread and there were a ton of leaves in there. Pulled passenger door panel off to play with the track and lubed it up with some spray lubricant I had in the garage and seems to be working better now. Window goes down perfectly and a little slow on the up.

 

Next thing to tackle was the door locks and you can hear the door lock timer clicking but no dice? Think it needs to be replaced?

 

After that tried pulling the rear hatch panel off and playing with things in there to get the light to stop coming on. Seemed to work last night but this morning she is coming on again. Anyone know where the sensor for the "door ajar" light is on the rear hatch? Would figure I should just disconnect at this point.

 

I put it up on craigslist for $2000 and have gotten a couple calls so far. Will have to take her for an oil change and to get an estimate on the brakes.

 

Oh and the drives side door lock is done I think. Put the key in the lock and instead of it turning the lock then entire lock body turns in the door?

 

Thoughts and opinions?

[adamzan]

Take the bolts out of the striker for the hatch and put 2 washers under the striker and bolt it back down. That will fix the light problem.

 

For your lock, it could be a couple things there are some platic clips (they like 79 cents for new ones) that can break. Taking the panel off and looking inside should show you what is wrong.

 

I've never had issues with my power door locks so I can't help there.

 

Good luck!

[1994SEV6]

the wife and I plan to give this to a friend that needs A) something with 4 doors (currently she drives a VW Rabbit convertible in the High Desert winters), and something with 4x4 for those few weeks every year that we get some bad snow/ice.

 

 

 

 

I put it up on craigslist for $2000 and have gotten a couple calls so far.

 

um. alright.

[gregnash]

yeah I know the friend ended up purchasing something else before we were able to gift it to her. Forgot to update that.

[Precise1]

As for the stock or aftermarket tranny cooler, I believe that it is just the stock one so I will have to crawl under the truck and find out. I remember there being a big write-up/post about doing a small parasitic one that was from like a ford escort or something but again cant seem to find it.

Ford Explorer, they have a nice plate version that is 6x11 so probably 16,000-18,000 GVWR. You will need a 8mm wrench to remove it IIRC, there are plenty to be found in junkyards.

 

Big Write Up

 

B

[gregnash]

Took the driver side door panel off to inspect the lock and it is trashed so locks will eventually need to be replaced. Was able to fix the rear hatch problem and then passenger side rear door exterior handle never opened the door. Figured out that it was just the plastic piece inside was worn and so used some of the washers I purchased for the rear hatch and whala, it works again!!!