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True Dual Exhaust


William
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Header wrap on a daily-driven vehicle is a bad idea. Header wrap is intended for situations where maximum power(racing) is desired, at the expense of component life. Header wrap collects dirt and salt which become extremely corrosive at high temperatures. The photos of full-out race cars showing header wrap in sales brochures omit the inconvenient detail that those headers in the race cars are made from Inconel, and can tolerate temperatures far higher than any steels can. The ceramic coated headers do a good job of keeping the heat in the pipe, and a well-designed exhaust system will help reduce underhood temperatures by getting the hot gasses out of the exhaust system. If you have a localized hot spot, a heatshield made from a larger diameter pipe spaced and clamped over the exhaust pipe will provide an air break, and the refective barrier needed to keep the heat away from the floorpan. The spray can ceramic coatings don't last. The only product that works is to have the pieces shipped to Jet-Hot and have it done professionally, but that is big $$. BTW, stainless steel is a relatively poor conductor of heat, so stainless pieces tend to keep the heat in better than mild steel ones do.

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Header wrap is worthless on trucks that see dirt use.

 

What RJ said is true.

 

If I remember there is a fiber glass backed steel mesh flexable heat shield that you can buy, which would work compaired too the hassle of cutting a larger section of pipe (or sheet metal) for a shield.

 

I dont think high temp paint is a good idea for exhaust pipeing, claded peices tend too rust faster for me when painted.

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Thx for the feedback guys. Enlightening as always ;)

 

What if in the future, I went ahead with my VG33E engine swap (which is quite tempting to be frank).

 

Can I reuse these Doug Thorleys or I will need to get a new set of headers for the VG33E?

 

William

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You can use the same headers, you will just have to drill them out to 10mm because of the studs changeover.

 

Nice. I feared this will be a show-stopper. On with it then

:fireworx:

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  • 2 weeks later...

After extensive online research, I narrowed down my options for the main Exhaust

components as follows:

 

A. I am replacing the stock Exhaust manifolds with ceramic-coated Headers from Doug Thorleys (2.5" Out)

B. I am replacing the stock down pipe with a 2.5" pipe (12-14 gauge) connected via 1/2"-thick 3-bolt flanges

B. I am replacing the stock Catalytic Converter with a FLOWMASTER 15150S 2.5" Universal Resonator ($108!):

 

Flowmaster15150S25OffsetIn-25OffsetOutUniversalResonator108.jpg

Flowmaster15150SSpecifications.jpg

 

C. I am replacing the stock muffler with either one of the following options for a dual out on the

same side (driver)

 

FlowmasterMufflerOptions.jpg

 

I am leaning towards the Magnaflow (option#8) but could go as well for the Flowmaster (Option#6 or 7)

to match the color of the Resonator.

 

What do you think?

 

William

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Ya I believe the O2 sensor is 12mm x 1.5 thread. I know it's 12 mm. also any auto store should have exhaust flanges/gaskets/clamps/pipes/bends? have u TRIED going to the local automotive store yet? lol you could also just use slip joints that slide onto each other, then clamp down. just a little harder to get in and out that way... especially out, I find...

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Thx Guys for the replies. Do you think this is a good setup?

 

- The Flowmaster Resonator in place of the CC

(forget about the police in Toronto - I only drive my Path offroad these days ;))

 

- Which Muffler is best from the 8 options I listed? (mind you the IN and OUT of each)

 

William

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