shasdakota Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Hey guys, I'm looking for someone who feels like making some of these slider plates for a fee. these are what kiwi pete and some of his buddy's are running down in NZ to reduce the upward travel of the TRE/centerlink, and therefore reduce stress on these parts, which is especially important after a suspension lift. i'm about to do a suspension lift soon, and until i get a Grassroots centerlink, i'd like to run these things. i dont have a welder (yet), and i dont know anyone who welds, so i'm hoping there will be someone on here that feels like making a few bucks doing some fabrication. i'm sure there might be other people interested in these things. if anyone else is interested in slider plates, let us know, and then if we can find someone to make these it will be more worthwhile for them, and they can make more $$. here's some pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 I'd try PM'ing AK9849cy, he looks like he has skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 My idler used to strike my frame too. Probem one; don't run a moog idler solution two; run oe style idle WITH idler brace. Ultimate solution; run a dummy steering box instead of an idler. theres not flexing the 1" shaft of the stering box, the arm would fail first. I Have the dummy box paired with a HOOHAA and I love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) I'd try PM'ing AK9849cy, he looks like he has skills. He doesn't know anything... . . . . . . . . . . . Edited November 8, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 are those direct bolt on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) No, He sent the measurements... have to drill the frame. Not sure there are any holes in the area that would work. If any of my vehicles still had IFS . Edited November 8, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 wow that was fast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 hey MY1PATH, lets see some pics of that dummy steering box of yours, i'm interested... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 HAHA! Jesus Ryan.... How long was this project? Trogdor636 didn't even suggest to PM you until 9:20pm and then you have photos posted of the finished product 2 hours 5 minutes later. Freaking miracle man. Too funny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 (edited) No, He sent the measurements... have to drill the frame. Not sure there are any holes in the area that would work. If any of my vehicles still had IFS . i am guessing the bolts go all the way through the frame holes you would drill out then with a nut and lock washer on the other side? Edited November 8, 2011 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 (edited) 1/4 Inch Plate.. Edited November 9, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbecktold Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 If any of my vehicles still had IFS . I know of 3... Is there really that much play in that area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoare85 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hey guys, I'm looking for someone who feels like making some of these slider plates for a fee. these are what kiwi pete and some of his buddy's are running down in NZ to reduce the upward travel of the TRE/centerlink, and therefore reduce stress on these parts, which is especially important after a suspension lift. i'm about to do a suspension lift soon, and until i get a Grassroots centerlink, i'd like to run these things. i dont have a welder (yet), and i dont know anyone who welds, so i'm hoping there will be someone on here that feels like making a few bucks doing some fabrication. i'm sure there might be other people interested in these things. if anyone else is interested in slider plates, let us know, and then if we can find someone to make these it will be more worthwhile for them, and they can make more $$. here's some pics: Wondering if anyone has pics of the modified grassroots centerlink?? Cheers Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 See? I told you he had skills, I just didnt think he was that damn fast as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Wondering if anyone has pics of the modified grassroots centerlink?? Cheers Sam They look pretty much the same as a regular centerlink, except the ball-joints have been replaced by spherical bearings. Then you just bolt them onto the idler and pitman arms. There are pictures on the grassroots site (click the small pics): http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1 Spherical bearings: http://www.google.ca/search?gcx=w&q=spherical+bearings&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1220&bih=683&sei=tn7NTozELsmsiQL8_ZW8Cw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kafike Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 MY1PATH, what do you mean by dummy steering box? I second the vote pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 MY1PATH, what do you mean by dummy steering box? I second the vote pics. I believe he means that instead of having a flimsy idler arm, he has a whole other steering box (like the one connected to the steering wheel) on the other side of the truck. It acts like a mega beefy idler arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoare85 Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 They look pretty much the same as a regular centerlink, except the ball-joints have been replaced by spherical bearings. Then you just bolt them onto the idler and pitman arms. There are pictures on the grassroots site (click the small pics): http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php? page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1 Spherical bearings: http://www.google.ca/search?gcx=w&q=spherical+bearings&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1220&bih=683&sei=tn7NTozELsmsiQL8_ZW8Cw Awesome so to save time I'd be able to source the correct size bearings and take the bar to a machinist shop and they be able to machine the center bar to fit te bearings? Thanks Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Awesome so to save time I'd be able to source the correct size bearings and take the bar to a machinist shop and they be able to machine the center bar to fit te bearings? Thanks Sam There's probably a little bit more to it than just choosing the right size, but yeah, you could do the mod on your own I guess. Pressing in spherical bearings and seating them properly (sometimes needs a special tool) might not be entirely trivial though. I'm not sure what grassroots does exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoare85 Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Yeah a big thing would also be getting the bearing with the taper to suit the ball joint.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 I copied this from another forum, it was originally called the TK1 mod. I think this is what hoohaa (grassroots) is doing but I could be wrong. I personally would just get the grassroots one cuz my fab skills to do something of this nature and do it correct are lacking. Here you go: This was copied from N4w I believe...written BY TK1 OK here's the deal. Parts required: 2x 5/8 bore ss rod end bearing teflon lined McMastercarr P/N 63215K38. 2x 5/8 I.D. spherical(tapered)washer male half McMastercarr P/N 91131A080. 1x 5/8 x 4" grade 8 bolt, lock washer and castle nut. Assortment of 5/8 spacers. cotter pins. 1.) Grind or Machine the weld off of the top until you see a line indicating where the parts separate. 2.) Tap the bushing pin with a hammer until it pops out. If you have to hit it too hard you need to grind more. 3.) Bore one side .500 inch deep to .001 inch less than the O.D. of the bearing. the bearings I used are 1.1875 O.D. (you will need the bearings before you start machining) 4.) Bore the other side .500 inch deep to .001 inch less than the O.D. of the bearing. this should leave a shelf in the middle approx .250 thick. 5.) After you bore both sides you'll be left with the afore mentioned shelf. the hole in the shelf is approxamatly .722 inch in diameter, this needs to be bored to 1.000 inch. 6.) You will need some 5/8 in spacers. these are like washers but have a smaller O.D. I got mine at Lowes. you need to stack a couple to get about .125 inch thickness. 7.) Put your bearings in the freezer for a few hours. 8.) Take one bearing and put it in your centerlink. Make sure it goes in strait, it should slide right in. When the bearing and the centerlink come to the same temp the bearing will be press fit. 9.) Put the bolt through the bearing and put your spacers over the bolt so that they are in the middle where the shelf is. 10.) Put the other bearing in. 11.) You will need to drill the mounting hole in your idler arm out to 5/8. 12.) Connect the centerlink to the idler arm using a 5/8 x 4" grade 8 bolt. Place one of the tapered washers on the bolt with the flat side facing the bolt head. The bolt in from the top. Place another tapered washer on the other side with the flat side facing the idler arm. slide the bolt through the idler arm and put a lock washer and castle nut on. 13.) drill the bolt for a cotter pin when you know the location that it needs to be. DISCLAIMER The maching requires a boring head and a mill to do, also it must be properly centered and square. Unless you have the proper equipment and machining knowledge let a machinist do it for you. You are responsible for you own vehicle modifications and subsequent consequences. This modification is working fantastic on my vehicle but I take no responsibilty for how it performs on yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Yeah a big thing would also be getting the bearing with the taper to suit the ball joint.. I'm not sure if there is a bearing in that side... I think they just replace the two ball joints that are a permanent part of the centerlink and leave the tapered holes alone. But I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoare85 Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Ah yes cool, I also found the post with part numbers etc after seeing this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kafike Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 I think I will stick with a Grassroots center link for now. Another steering box sounds like too much more work for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 To answer a few of the questions above: MY1PATH has a gutted 2wd HB steering box and pitman arm in place of the stock steering idler. You can do a double steering box setup with a stock or HooHaa CL. The second steering box is just a bomb-proof idler arm. There's a thread here somewhere, I think it's called "Double Steering Box Mod" or something like that. Search should find it. The HooHaa/Grassroots center links are modified stock ones. He cuts both ball joints off the CL, welds on machined housings, and presses two spherical bearings into each. This is the same as the old "TK1 mod" except he does both sides so they share the twisting force. This reduces the strain on the idler arm to some degree. To install one you have to drill out your pitman and idler arms to 5/8". Then 5/8" bolts go through the bearings and the arms with locking nuts on top. As far as I've heard nobody has ever killed a HooHaa CL. At the very least every Pathy that goes off road even occasionally needs a steering idler brace. CLs wear out but they don't generally bend, break, or otherwise catastrophically fail. When the idler fails you suddenly have no steering and this is not a bandaid-able thing you can fix on the trail unless you carry a spare! (I do) I've been running the AC idler brace for several years and it has done it's job well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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