Kyle94 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) so my truck has been doing this: GALKGDFDG since i bought it, and is progressivly getting worse. what you see in the vid is its current state RIGHT now. after spark plug change it made it worse. Checked/ Cleaned: MAF MAF connector/wires Cap (sanded residue off) New Spark plugs Wires for arch, none. (still could be bad??) Coolant temp sensor Distributor is there something im missing? the other day while i was waiting at a stop light after just starting up and driving for about 200ft, it DIED, gave NO warning. just up and stopped running. BUT it started back up with no problem! i dont know what else to check anymore. im afraid one day its just gonna stop running all together! :O plz help... Edited November 4, 2011 by Kyle94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spentplsr711 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I know how you feel. Mine wont idle for more then 10 seconds before dieing. Driving down the highway its fine tho. My wires are arking so I will be relacing them in the next couple of days. You cant see mine ark but went to make sure they were not loose and when I put my hand over the wires I got zapped. So I hope it fixes mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 i felt the wires all over. never got zapped. but that is my next move when i get some more money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spentplsr711 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Does your backfire like crazy? Everytime I let off the gas it backfires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 nope, no backfires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spentplsr711 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Got my wires on eBay for $29.00 shipped cuz everyone else wants like $80.00 or more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 yeah... our local parts store wants 60$ for the cheapest set! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Why do people always buy the cheapest parts, that is just asking for trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spentplsr711 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Cuz people like me who have two kids a car payment and one income can only get the cheap parts. Got to take care of the kids and wife first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 End up costing you more headaches and money in the end. Better to hold out and wait a bit longer till you can afford the better set in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 turns out its not the wires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Hard to say... I get lots of BETTER parts online for cheaper than an inferior part at a local shop... depends on the situation. Some parts vary more in terms of quality than others too... no real personal experience with wires. The ones I got from rock auto were about $30 I think? They have a wide variety from $17 to $70. I probably wouldn't get the $17 though, who knows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Rock auto has bosch wires for 30 dollars and niehoff wires for 22. Pretty cheap if you ask me. People still buy the cheapest they can find and then wonder why it still runs like a bag of @!*%. Anyways, you may have a failing injector kyle, based on what you told me earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) People still buy the cheapest they can find and then wonder why it still runs like a bag of @!*%. Dont get me started! Have you checked the timing? It being off can cause the vehicle to stutter and generally run like crap. Edited November 4, 2011 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 ignition timing? not yet, idk how... and dont have a timing light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 ignition timing? not yet, idk how... and dont have a timing light. Many auto parts chain stores will rent these type tools to you for a few $$. the one near me will fully refund the fee if you return it the same day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 (edited) Just take a screw driver and losen the bolt on the dizy and move it one way or the other and tighten it and try it and see if it gets better or not. I am not sure if u can do it while its running so thats why i say loosen adjust then tighten and then try it...others might say its ok i am not sure I actually went through the whole thing of taking the dizzy off and reinstalling it with piston one at TDC (top dead center)and that fixed my problem Edited November 4, 2011 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 ^ don't do that without a timing light because you wont' know where to put it exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 check you timing but also check your connector on your mafs make sure it isn't corroded and your getting the right voltages in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Been a while. but here is an update: Borrowed a timing light from the auto shop at my school. the timing is now spot on. and it gets WAY better MPG's than just adjusting by feeling/listening for it to stop stuttering. The new question: why after adjusting the timing correctly, does it still sputter every few seconds and sometimes die...?? pissing my off, and i don't know what to do with it anymore. i want to hit it with a hammer.... another member (Mister510) has requested that i check the TPS (throttle position sensor) with a multimeter using the specs per the FSM. Have yet to find a multi-meter to check... anything else to check? i really want this fixed... yesterday while i was in 4lo (snow covered roads) i floored (no cars around, dont worry) it, just playing around. about a couple hundered feet later, i pulled over to take it out of 4lo. and as i let go of the gas and turned off, the steering was stiff, i look down and the damn thing wasnt running!! :O That is all.. ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Did you look for vacuum leaks? I know when the small vacuum hose on the back of the intake boot spilt, mine did some whierd stuff. Might also be the IAC valve. You can check it by disconnecting one of the connectors near the distributor, then start it up. If it wont idle, you can try and adjusting it(look right over the top of the brake master cylinder from the left fender). You may also have some carbon issues on the valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) Did you look for vacuum leaks? I know when the small vacuum hose on the back of the intake boot spilt, mine did some whierd stuff. Might also be the IAC valve. You can check it by disconnecting one of the connectors near the distributor, then start it up. If it wont idle, you can try and adjusting it(look right over the top of the brake master cylinder from the left fender). You may also have some carbon issues on the valves. I agree with him it's very possible its a vaccum leak or a IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve) that needs to be cleaned or replaced. For the vaccum lines check the ones around the throttle body and Evap Canister(right beside the washer bottle) for visual leaks and also if you have a can of carb cleaner ( Starter Fluid will also work great and evaporate quick) laying around you can lightly spray the hoses while running along with the intake boot and if the engine idle goes up for a sec because of it sucking in the carb cleaner you can locate your leak easier. Also take a look at the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line its all way at the back of the intake next to the fire wall. Mine idled like your did awhile back and i went to change the number 6 spark plug and found the hose broken back there. As for the IAC just remove and clean the carbon out of it. Edited January 18, 2012 by wd21overland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Did you look for vacuum leaks? I know when the small vacuum hose on the back of the intake boot spilt, mine did some whierd stuff. Might also be the IAC valve. You can check it by disconnecting one of the connectors near the distributor, then start it up. If it wont idle, you can try and adjusting it(look right over the top of the brake master cylinder from the left fender). You may also have some carbon issues on the valves. I agree with him it's very possible its a vaccum leak or a IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve) that needs to be cleaned or replaced. For the vaccum lines check the ones around the throttle body and Evap Canister(right beside the washer bottle) for visual leaks and also if you have a can of carb cleaner ( Starter Fluid will also work great and evaporate quick) laying around you can lightly spray the hoses while running along with the intake boot and if the engine idle goes up for a sec because of it sucking in the carb cleaner you can locate your leak easier. Also take a look at the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line its all way at the back of the intake next to the fire wall. Mine idled like your did awhile back and i went to change the number 6 spark plug and found the hose broken back there. As for the IAC just remove and clean the carbon out of it. i forget which is the IAC? the thing on a tower to the right of the intake?? ill try to find some starter fluid tomorrow as well as a multimeter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Have yet to find a multi-meter to check... You can get a cheap, decent one at Sears. I think I paid less than 20 bucks for mine. Hell, the 5 dollar one at Harbor Frieght will probably work for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 ROFL... Harbor Freight.... -_- that place is... yeah. and the closest one is half hour away. BUT, i KNOW we have one somewhere at this damn house! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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