PATHRIDER Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) well guys it must be my month to spend some time with 2 of my pathy and the hardbody. Started with the hardbody with a blown torque converter..got that fixed then the 94 pathy developed a leak on the exhaust manifold..got that fixed also ...after finishing installing a new manifold gasket I slid underneath the trucks passenger sode to tighten the 3 nuts for the manifold to cross pipe then i discovered that my transmisson oil pan has a leak on it...I figured heck id tighten the 10MM bolts and it should stop...NOT! ..it made the leak worst so i ended up replacing the gasket..oh what a pain it was. i was about to grab a sawzall and cut the damn pipe blocking the front end of the pan but I checked on here and found one of filthy lurkers post on replacing transmisson pan gasket its still a pain in the a getting that pan out ..whoever replaced the pipe that goes across the oil pan must be a rookie ..that pipe was issing the bottom of the pan well as usual afet 8 hours i got it done but anothe problem arise..this time with my 93 black pathy on the way home from sears after pickin up a 10MM swivel socket I noticed a very slight tivking noise and when I finally made it to the carport that ticking got louder and I can smeel burnt oil so I immidiately shut it off and when I looked underneath the truck oil was leaking heavily on the passenger side. At first I thought my filter adapter for my dual filter kit came loose or my oil sending unit but theres no trace of oil on those 2 spots. I crawled underneath and found the bottom of my oil pan and on the side (passenger side) was just drenched with oil now the question is what would cause such a heavy leak like that? Is it my oil pan gasket? Could it be the rear oil seal? any input is again appreciated fellas Edited September 13, 2011 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 AFAIK, the only items oil related on the passenger side of the engine are the oil pressure sender and the oil filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 if it were a rear seal, the dripping would be out of the bell housing. If your oil filter adapter and sending unit are dry, the leak is most likely either your rear seal or the oil pan gasket itself. Being that close to the exhaust, it thermally cycles quite a bit. Check your head cover gasket though. I have seen those leak and run down the block. Last time I had to track down a leak, I got under there and wiped EVERYTHING down with rags and paper towels. Then run to temp while sitting since driving tends to fling droplets all over the place and it becomes difficult to tell what is leaking. If you get to temp and do not see active leaking, let it cool and systematically wipe areas with a paper towel looking for any fresh oil evidence... head covers, oil pan, under the starter, bell housing, block under the sender unit, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 and DO NOT add radiator stop-leak to your crankcase in hopes of stopping the oil leak. no, it wasn't me but I have a few friends who are mechanics and they certainly have seen their share of stupidity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 if it were a rear seal, the dripping would be out of the bell housing. If your oil filter adapter and sending unit are dry, the leak is most likely either your rear seal or the oil pan gasket itself. Being that close to the exhaust, it thermally cycles quite a bit. Check your head cover gasket though. I have seen those leak and run down the block. Last time I had to track down a leak, I got under there and wiped EVERYTHING down with rags and paper towels. Then run to temp while sitting since driving tends to fling droplets all over the place and it becomes difficult to tell what is leaking. If you get to temp and do not see active leaking, let it cool and systematically wipe areas with a paper towel looking for any fresh oil evidence... head covers, oil pan, under the starter, bell housing, block under the sender unit, etc. Thanks bud ..Ill be checking for those areas...getting ready to put on my coveralls now and keep you guys posted. If it was the rear seal does it mean I have to drop the transmission right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Yep. Remember to use talcum powder when appropriate for finding oil leaks. Dust an area and a fresh leak stand out... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Just a thought... Does your back end sit up higher then your front? Perhaps its leaking from the rear main as stated, but the oil travels to the left side toward the front? Could very well just be the pan itself as stated and after wiping, I like precises idea with the powder.... I'm going to need to remember that for my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) guys thanks for the quick reply and input..It was the oil sending unit. It was late last night when I started tracing where the leaks at and swear I didnt find any trace by the oil filter and that unit. This morning I started tracing the leak again but as what k9 said I wiped everything and fired it up, waited a few minutes and there it was oil was just coming out from the oil sending unit dripping down on the passenger side ..went and got a new unit and installed and no more drips now another problem arghhhh..when I first started it it has that ticking noise or maybe I should say tapping noise. I let it warn up and that tapping noise comes and goes..funny thing is I pulled up next to a pathy at the post office with the guy sitting inside with his motor running and heard the same tapping on his motor Now im going to do a diagnostic test in a few here...Could this tapping be the fuel injectors gone bad?Like I said it comes and goes.Itll be loud the first time I start the rig then itll go away,took it for a test drive and theres times that that tapping goes louder as I rev up the motor from a full stop and itll go away and theres times that it wont... Ive replaced injectors before on this same rig 4 years ago and cant remember if that was that loud tapping sound I sure appreciate all your input and guide guys. Id be completely lost without your advices Edited September 13, 2011 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 The tapping is probably the valve lifters. They can tap at startup (quite loud sometimes) until oil gets into them. It is possible that they sustained some damage due to lack of oil and are therefore now louder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 It mustve leaked a half quart yesterday from what I can tell so it shouldnt do any damage I hope but just got done checking the ecu for codes and I have a 33 and 34 33= heated oxygen sensor and 34= knock sensor. Ive seen a write up on this before but now cant find it. If I remember correctly the top plenum has to be taken off. If it is I guess itll be a good time to replace that #6 plug also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 The thing is, you said you heard a ticking sound when you first had the problem... this wouldn't happen to the lifters unless there was a lack of oil pressure. Which would only happen due to a leak if you lost almost all your oil. But if you checked your oil and you didn't lose much... well, then it is confusing. The knock sensor is underneath the lower intake manifold. It might not actually be defective... other problems can sometimes trigger it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) The thing is, you said you heard a ticking sound when you first had the problem... this wouldn't happen to the lifters unless there was a lack of oil pressure. Which would only happen due to a leak if you lost almost all your oil. But if you checked your oil and you didn't lose much... well, then it is confusing. The knock sensor is underneath the lower intake manifold. It might not actually be defective... other problems can sometimes trigger it... It was more of a tapping or knocking ..It didnt sound like the ticking we hear when theres a manifold leak or when we first start our motor and goes away after a few seconds When I checked my oil after I installed the oil sending unit it was 3/4 full so I filled it back up. am I going to need to take the plenum out to get to the knoch sensor? The error codes on the ECU shows 33 and 34 though so its gotta be the knock sensor and 02 sensor. I even erased the stored error codes on the ECU and did it like 3 time to make sure Im getting the correct reading now to get me motivated I watch this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO-tZGuFDg&feature=related Edited September 13, 2011 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Ok, it sounds like maybe you have a couple different issues and that the oil leak is a separate problem. Presumably you O2 sensor code is a problem with your O2 sensor. I would replace it. What I was trying to say about the knock sensor code, was that, if you get engine knock for some reason, you might trigger the knock sensor code? I'm not sure exactly how that code works. Especially since you are talking about a knocking sound.... you might want to think about it or something before replacing the sensor.... Especially since it is a pain. I would remove the upper plenum to do it, yes. If you then remove the lower intake you will be able to see the sensor right there, but removing the intake is annoying. Some people successfully reach underneath and do it by feel. Perhaps it is even possible to do with the upper plenum still on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ok, it sounds like maybe you have a couple different issues and that the oil leak is a separate problem. Presumably you O2 sensor code is a problem with your O2 sensor. I would replace it. What I was trying to say about the knock sensor code, was that, if you get engine knock for some reason, you might trigger the knock sensor code? I'm not sure exactly how that code works. Especially since you are talking about a knocking sound.... you might want to think about it or something before replacing the sensor.... Especially since it is a pain. I would remove the upper plenum to do it, yes. If you then remove the lower intake you will be able to see the sensor right there, but removing the intake is annoying. Some people successfully reach underneath and do it by feel. Perhaps it is even possible to do with the upper plenum still on... Spoke with a local nissan tech here also and was told 3 things thats whats making it knock first was a bad 02 sensor which is already determined , bad gas and bad sensor For some reason I have the itching to take my plenum off and thinking the knock sensor was underneath there but I was wrong..Is it underneath the intake? This is how far I got Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 and DO NOT add radiator stop-leak to your crankcase in hopes of stopping the oil leak. no, it wasn't me but I have a few friends who are mechanics and they certainly have seen their share of stupidity. Sorry but I just had a flashback of the brake fluid/brake clean thread I read a wHile ago on a Camaro forum... pure hilarity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 The knock sensor is under the intake, yes. Right on the top of the engine block. You can probably feel it if you wiggle your hand in there from the back now (follow the wire...). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) Spoke with a local nissan tech here also and was told 3 things thats whats making it knock first was a bad 02 sensor which is already determined , bad gas and bad sensor For some reason I have the itching to take my plenum off and thinking the knock sensor was underneath there but I was wrong..Is it underneath the intake? This is how far I got You gots a ways to go yet. you need to drain the radiator fluid out of your engine block so when you remove the lower intake you don't dump a bunch of silicate rich radiator fluid down your intake valves into your cylinders. The big problem with this is that the silicone gets into your oil degrades your bearings and ultimately vaporizes and fouls your o2 sensors and your cats. The knock sensor is about 4 inches from the rear of the engine block. Edited September 14, 2011 by ejin4499 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 The knock sensor is under the intake, yes. Right on the top of the engine block. You can probably feel it if you wiggle your hand in there from the back now (follow the wire...). Thanks bud.. Im going to try and find the wire tomorrow but if I cant get to it like others do Ill just pull the intake. When disconnecting the fuel rails do I have to watch for anything like springs popping out or the ends of those injectors are just sitted inside the intake holes with o rings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 You gots a ways to go yet. you need to drain the radiator fluid out of your engine block so when you remove the lower intake you don't dump a bunch of silicate rich radiator fluid down your intake valves into your cylinders. The big problem with this is that the silicone gets into your oil degrades your bearings and ultimately vaporizes and fouls your o2 sensors and your cats. The knock sensor is about 4 inches from the rear of the engine block. Never thought of draining the fluid on the block . I know its on both sides oof the block down below. Do i have to drain the rad coolant also? I did some search on here about knock sensor and most of the members that replaced theirs complained of losing power. I have not lost any power its just that annoying knock that comes and goes now you mentioned that the knock sensor is 4 inches from the rear of the engine block , how can some members pull it out without having to remove the lower intake? i dont see any openings anywhere to see whats below that lower intake,maybe I have to look harder Thanks guys. Im hitting the sack and work on the pathy early in the morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Never thought of draining the fluid on the block . I know its on both sides oof the block down below. Do i have to drain the rad coolant also? I did some search on here about knock sensor and most of the members that replaced theirs complained of losing power. I have not lost any power its just that annoying knock that comes and goes now you mentioned that the knock sensor is 4 inches from the rear of the engine block , how can some members pull it out without having to remove the lower intake? i dont see any openings anywhere to see whats below that lower intake,maybe I have to look harder Thanks guys. Im hitting the sack and work on the pathy early in the morning I have no idea how they can cram there hands in there (between lower manifold and firewall) let alone get a wrench in too. Its all I can do just to put the wires back on without removing everything. As for the coolant I always just drained the whole system and replaced with new fluid. If I had to test something I would fill with water test and drain again. Then when i was finished use rad fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Just an FYI, replacing your knock sensor will NOT stop engine knock. The sensor just detects it... and when it does it adjusts the ignition timing to prevent it. The only reason to replace your knock sensor is if it is defective... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I am curious about this problem as my car knocks or ticks when it is started up, it is not throwing an 02 sensor code though just a knock sensor code and only sometimes. but it calms down as it warms up, and it drives perfectly fine (other than feeling kind of restricted from either the exhaust( which smells like rotten eggs/sulfur sometimes... I have a 95 And it does throw the egr temp sensor code also, but I think that's because I took off the egr-bpt valve.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 That ticking is probably from the exhaust manifolds, the stock studs tend to break allowing a leak which partially seals as everything warms up, but yours is probably made worse by what sounds like a clogged catalytic converter (restricted exhaust and rotten egg smell). B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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