Fordnatic Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Hi from a Nissan newbie. Need a spare rig for a few months for the wife, not much available to spend. My good friend has an 89 Pathfinder 5 speed 4x4 which his wife had before he met her. The engine was getting worn out so she bought a low mileage take out engine, but didn't get it installed. After they were married, my friend drove it for several years with a dead cylinder until the clutch went out and he parked it. He recently GAVE me the whole works. My plan is to swap engines and install a new clutch. I didn't find much info about removing the engine, but bumbled through it. What a pain! I've pulled several, but none fought me so much. Ended up dropping the front diff. A pain with 2 of the crossmember bolts in backwards so they can't be removed (cut them) and having to dislodge one torsion bar. I guess they did not expect much work to need done on these! Sure didn't make it easy. Not sure what the replacement engine came out of. Looks to have come from a front wheel drive sideways installation. I'm not even sure what engine I have (V6). It's sat for 7 or 8 years (inside) but turns free and is super clean under the valve covers-no sludge. I've got about half the accessories switched over. All of them were different, but so far the block and heads have had the right holes that I needed to mount things up. Here is a list of things I will replace: Gaskets: valve cover, oil pan, exh & int manifolds, rear main seal Thermostat Timing belt looks good so far so I'm on the fence Must add pilot bushing (replacement engine must have had automatic) clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing probably all hoses My question is this: Is there something else that is a known issue which I should attend to? Something else that should be replaced while I'm in deep? I don't plan on keeping it much more than a few months, but want something decent to sell. Looking fwd to your advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 I'd definitely do the T-belt, just in case it's interference. MIght be good to figure out just what it is, as well, and find out what common problems etc are with it. If you can trade it for a low-milage VG-series, you'll have a much easier install on your hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 For some reason I believe those crossmember bolts are supposed to be "backwards." At least according to the FSM. You need to remove the t-bars to get to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Ok, what sensor is this? (The yellow plug) Need to switch it over to the new engine (Which had nothing in that hole). When I went to unscrew it something broke and now the nut just turns freely. I suspect it's just a temp gauge sensor. Only thing is that it does not go into the water jacket, it's just a threaded hole in the head that ends. If it's a gauge sensor I could live without it, but if it hooks to the computer I need it. Can't go to the parts store for a new one if I don't know what it is! As you can see from the photo it's on the LH head just above and behind the water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 I'd definitely do the T-belt, just in case it's interference. MIght be good to figure out just what it is, as well, and find out what common problems etc are with it. If you can trade it for a low-milage VG-series, you'll have a much easier install on your hands. What do I have now? Is the VG what came in it? Like I said, I know nothing about Nissans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 For some reason I believe those crossmember bolts are supposed to be "backwards." At least according to the FSM. You need to remove the t-bars to get to them. That must be the way the factory installed them. But they obviously didn't care about future serviceing! I would have had to remove the A arm as well as the torsion bar. The new bolt will be going in the other way, that's for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I second the changing of the timing belt. It is a good selling point as well. Shows that it really is ready to roll. That sensor is the cylinder head temp sensor I believe. And yes it is the one for the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Yes that sensor is the cylinder head temp sensor and its very important! don't worry about the old one, take the opportunity to put a new one while it's easy. They are not easy to change once the motor is fully assembled. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Yeah, the VG30 is the stock Pathy motor (three liter six cylinder). I didn't know jack about Nissans either, until I found this site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Ok, what sensor is this? (The yellow plug) Need to switch it over to the new engine (Which had nothing in that hole). When I went to unscrew it something broke and now the nut just turns freely. I suspect it's just a temp gauge sensor. Only thing is that it does not go into the water jacket, it's just a threaded hole in the head that ends. If it's a gauge sensor I could live without it, but if it hooks to the computer I need it. Can't go to the parts store for a new one if I don't know what it is! As you can see from the photo it's on the LH head just above and behind the water pump. Deifinitly do the timing belt. I would pout all new exhaust studs in while the engines out, as these can be a PITA later if needed. I dont have that sensor, mine is on the throttle body. I just went through a engine swap. I didnt have to remove cross members or my Diff. May I ask why you had to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Get a new flywheel or get the one you have thoroughly inspected and resurfaced. If you come across parts you need. I have all the parts from and 87 that I completely disassembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) Well, I'm still working on it. Got busy at work and haven't had time to devote to it. I have most all things switched from old block to new. Nearly every item that bolted on the block was different, but so far all the items needed for the pathfinder have switched over ok. Even the distributor mounting pad was different (thicker with an angled hold down hole), but the old plate switched over. A couple exhaust studs were in the wrong orientation, but luckily the heads had the proper holes. It had an oil filter adapter that needed removed, even the front cover and water pump etc are different, but compatible. The thermostat housing sent a hard pipe for the radiator hose to the rear of the engine underneath the intake manifold. Don't know what this engine came from, but guessing it's a cross mounted FWD. The only major components I haven't tried are the oil pan and intake, but all the signs say they will fit. I did get a new cyl head temp sensor. Ordered all my parts from Rock Auto. They were all half to a third the local prices, so even with shipping was much cheaper. Got a Borg & Beck clutch kit (press plate, T/O brg, disk, pilot bushing and even an alignment tool) for $107! The flywheel looks great, so I'll just use as is. Timing belt (Goodyear Gatorbak) was less than $6, so I've installed it as well. Diff has to come out on 4x4 unless you remove trans/xfer case first because engine will not move forward at all with diff in place, as oil pan hangs down behind it. I'll keep ya all posted. Edited October 29, 2011 by Fordnatic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyLarry Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 Got a Borg & Beck clutch kit (press plate, T/O brg, disk, pilot bushing and even an alignment tool) for $107! The crankshaft will have a large pilot bushing for the auto trans that will need removed before installing manual trans pilot bushing. I just did a auto to manual swap and discoverd this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 I guess I was able to my swap without taking the diff. out because I have a 3" BL giving me the extra space to jack the engine up then come forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Well, I finally am making some progress. It's almost ready to free up the garage, which is great because snow's comin up here! The crankshaft will have a large pilot bushing for the auto trans that will need removed before installing manual trans pilot bushing. I just did a auto to manual swap and discoverd this. Didn't find anything in the end of the crank on this one. I did have to file the outside of the new pilot bushing down a bit to make it fit. The input shaft was real tight on the install, took a little coaxing with some long bolts through the trans housing to get it to engage. I did try the bushing on the shaft prior to installing it. Remember when I said that the water pump and front cover of the engine were different? I didn't notice before, but the water pump is shorter. I was able to cut out the center of the serpentine pulley that came with the engine and use that for a spacer to line of the grooves of the original V-pulley, so it all worked out in the end. It worked great turning those offending bolts on the cross member around. Just had to trim the new bolts so they came out flush with the nut, the clearance is tight to the flange on the torsion bar. One torsion bar did have to come loose at the front to allow the differential cross member to clear and come down, but at least I did not have to mess with the A-arm which would have been a whole nuther can o worms. I've got everything underneath finished up except the slave cylinder for the clutch, and most of the wiring and stuff up top except the cooling system. Did have to replace the radiator due to some weird corrosion issues. You can just touch the fins with your finger and they disintegrate! Found a new one on Craig's list for $80. Still trying to figure out where a couple of the plugs go on the engine harness, if it doesn't come to me I'll post some pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Get a new flywheel or get the one you have thoroughly inspected and resurfaced. If you come across parts you need. I have all the parts from and 87 that I completely disassembled. Do you have some good headlights and a passenger mirror? Mirror is broken and both headlights are pitted allowing moisture and discoloration on the inside. Cheapest I've found is about 40 bucks + shipping-which seems like a lot for a low buck project. The wife doesn't need the extra rig now so the goal is to resell, and if I spiff up those and a couple more things it will look better to a buyer. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Finally fired it up tonight!! Can't believe it took so long. Cycled the key a couple times and then it started right up!! Not a whiff of smoke or anything. Amazing since the engine has sat for 11 or 12 years, and the Pathfinder over 5. I must have got the timing really close, seems about right. At first it would just run at 2000 RPM, then as it warmed up it slowed to about 1500. As it got warmer it started cutting out, dropping to 1450 then back up to 1550 or so over and over. The injectors were spraying, then stopping, then spraying....repeating the cycle. Didn't know what was up. The radiator had only taken about a gallon of coolant and the heater was cold, so I suspected an airlock and started trying to solve that. Took the upper hose off and pored more coolant in, ran it some more and all of a sudden it started running steady. I guess a temp sensor needed to have water? I know the cylinder head temp sensor goes in a dry hole in the head, as that's the only sensor I replaced. The lower hose was still cold, but the heater was just starting to put out a little heat. Shut it off and fiddled a little more, restarted and finally it started circulating-temp dropped and heater got hot along with lower hose. All seems well except it's still idling at 1400 or so. The idle screw is seized, and looks like it may already be backed off all the way anyhow, so I'll have to see what's up. Any suggestions for a fast idle remedy?? Can't wait to take it for a drive tomorrow. That first fire up never ceases to be a thrill!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 It won't idle down until it's warm, but maybe you already got it fully warmed up. Vacuum leak? Also, on the MPFI pathfinders anyway, there is a relief screw on top of the plenum to help fill the coolant (lets the air out). Found out about that tidbit on this board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 It won't idle down until it's warm, but maybe you already got it fully warmed up. Vacuum leak? Also, on the MPFI pathfinders anyway, there is a relief screw on top of the plenum to help fill the coolant (lets the air out). Found out about that tidbit on this board! There is a bleeder on the top radiator hose on this one. It was open, but I still had to take off the top hose at the radiator and poor some coolant in that way. It has been fully warmed up but is still idling too high. I did find a loose vacuum line but hooking it up didn't help, so I'm still searching for the fast idle problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 So you never removed the flex plate spacer from the block before you put the pilot bushing in? Have you driven it yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 So you never removed the flex plate spacer from the block before you put the pilot bushing in? Have you driven it yet? I did that "whoopsie" when I swapped KAs in a HB. Easy oversite, sucks taking it apart to pull it when replacing the flywheel from the starter chewing the teeth off due to the "off" engaugement... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordnatic Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) So you never removed the flex plate spacer from the block before you put the pilot bushing in? Have you driven it yet? What?? Flex plate spacer? Not sure what you are talking about. I used the motor plate (spacer that aligns the starter and fits between the bell-housing and engine block) that came out of the Pathfinder, the replacement engine didn't have anything on it, just a bare crankshaft flange. It drives very well. The clutch is working great. I was worried about that because it had a history of the clutch pedal sticking down leaving you stranded. Seems opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder would let it work. Must have had some air in the system? The only problem I'm still having is the idle speed won't go below 1450. Any suggestions??? Edit: Just re-read it. Are you talking about something in the hole of the crankshaft where the pilot bushing goes? That was empty as well. Pilot bushing slipped right in after I turned it down some. Went in flush with the edge of the hole. Edited November 20, 2011 by Fordnatic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Do you have some good headlights and a passenger mirror? Mirror is broken and both headlights are pitted allowing moisture and discoloration on the inside. Cheapest I've found is about 40 bucks + shipping-which seems like a lot for a low buck project. The wife doesn't need the extra rig now so the goal is to resell, and if I spiff up those and a couple more things it will look better to a buyer. Thanks. I have headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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