Lifters

[adamzan]

So I am going to change the lifters on the pathy soon because it is sounding like a sewing machine and even other people have commented on it lol. What else should I change in there while I have it open. I know I will need an intake gasket set and a valve cover gasket set. Anything else? I saw parts dinosaur has lifters for 10 dollars but alkorahils nissan parts site has them for 16.21.

 

I was going to use the lifters out of my parts truck but I don't think that would be a good idea.

[The_Magicians_Eye]

Rocker shafts are more than likely really warn out too. When I changed my lifters I found that out the hard way.

Edited August 12, 2011 by The_Magicians_Eye

[MY1PATH]

250k my rockers were fine. I used clevite lifters from northern autoparts.

Search here!!! you need ZDDP and a Break in procedure or your new lifters will become loud like the old ones...

[sewebster]

Measure the new lifters with a micrometer. If they are out of the spec in the FSM don't install them. I learned the hard way and destroyed my camshafts. I went through three sets before I found good ones. Sealed Power 4 out of 12 were bad, Beck Arnley 10 out of 12 were bad, Clevite all were good. I needed to replace my rocker shafts and rockers too.

 

I'm not super satisfied with the sound now though, I still think I'm hearing valve noise of some sort. I used ZDDP (RP break in oil) and did the procedure. You could also measure the ID of the bores in the lifter guide plate... you might be able to get new ones from the wreckers or whatever if necessary. The main thing is that the lifters aren't too big and get stuck in the plate.

[RJSquirrel]

Don't reuse old lifters unless they are going to be reinstalled in the same head on the same lobe of the same camshaft they came from. Lifters are designed to burnish to the camshaft lobe they are installed on. Mixing used components renews the break-in process, but without the benefit of the break-in coating new lifters come with. Severe to catastrophic wear often occurs.

 

Use new lifters, even with used cams. I'd stick with the Nissan ones.

 

Liberally apply camshaft break-in lube (not grease, it will clog the lifters) to all the moving parts as you assemble the valve-train. Use conventional oil with ZDDP additive during the breakin, and change the oil and filter after the initial 20 minute break-in period. Use conventional oil with ZDDP, a good filter and change the oil again after 500 miles, keeping the rpms down during that period. After that, you can switch to a synthetic oil if desired.

[Chriskaw440]

250,000 + miles on mine when I changed mine and rockers were fine...some lifters were actually broken in places. Beats me why.

 

Check and replace all vacuum/coolant lines that run UNDER the plenum while you have it off the engine. Can't get to them otherwise. I replaced my IAC valve while it was off also.

 

I test fitted each lifter in the lifter block and where some felt slightly snug, they fit fine in other openings and eventually got all of them to fit without any movement resistance.

 

Good luck getting these hydraulic lifters to ever been completely silent. Mine started making some noise again after a few thousand miles and I'm just going to leave them be and

attribute it to putting brand new parts in a very old worn engine....since I'm not about to spend hundreds more on new lifters again and new lifter blocks and new rocker arm assemblies.

 

I run Valvoline 20/50 racing oil as its about all I can find in the stores that actually still has some ZDDP in it....and I doubt there is much in it since the US GOVT made everyone stop

using it in their products for reasons I'm not going to go into here because once I find out it's related to the US govt...it just pisses me off to no end. You can research it on the internet though.

 

Engine still runs like a champ and doesn't consume oil...and gas mileage is still up around 20 mpg

 

Currently trying to fix the dreaded random high idle issue.....related to MAF connection/harness.

[adamzan]

Yeah mine has about 219,000 miles. I have the run in procedure garret posted saved on my pc somewhere. My friend has some royal purple break in oil I think that would be good right? I will inspect all the parts in there and replace whatever I find worn. So I guess the best bet is either clevite or the nissan ones.

 

I don't expect whisper quiet at this age but at least not the tick tick tick tick that is coming from my drivers side wheel well.

[Towncivilian]

I run Valvoline 20/50 racing oil as its about all I can find in the stores that actually still has some ZDDP in it....and I doubt there is much in it since the US GOVT made everyone stop

using it in their products for reasons I'm not going to go into here because once I find out it's related to the US govt...it just pisses me off to no end. You can research it on the internet though.

Heavy Duty Engine Oils like Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, etc have high ZDDP content. Just make sure they are API rated and you can run them in a gasoline engine without issue. They are also very high in detergents and will clean things up quickly. See a virgin oil analysis of some Rotella T 15W-40 - 1190ppm of zinc.

[Chriskaw440]

nice to know....so basically rotella 15/40 is ok to run in our engines?

[Towncivilian]

AFAIK all Rotella variants are API certified. Pick your weight and conventional, syn-blend or synthetic and you should be good to go. Plain jane dino 10w-30 is cheaply found at Wal-Mart (only gallon jugs which are 4qt, and maybe individual quarts at my local WM, dunno about yours) and will do well for 5k+ OCIs assuming no engine or consumption issues. Out of curiosity, which oil filter do you typically run?

Edited August 15, 2011 by Towncivilian

[adamzan]

I hate buying things at walmart. Look at the kind of people that shop there.

[Towncivilian]

I was simply making a suggestion. Oil prices at W*M have been steadily rising - often deals at auto parts stores which include a filter are better deals. But I have 13 filters stashed, so maybe W*M will be my oil outlet for the time being.

[TerranoNZ]

When I did my old 88 it wasn't the lifters but the shaft that the rockers are mounted on. I'm sure you remember seeing this pic Adam.

 

 

Money permitting I'd do all lifters, rockers and shafts, it all depends on how crazy you want to go.

[RJSquirrel]

nice to know....so basically rotella 15/40 is ok to run in our engines?

 

15W40 is too thick to run in your engine. It would work if there is no other alternative available, but it will pump too slowly to avoid excessive startup wear. Your engine was designed to use 5w30, so stick with that.

[adamzan]

I was simply making a suggestion. Oil prices at W*M have been steadily rising - often deals at auto parts stores which include a filter are better deals. But I have 13 filters stashed, so maybe W*M will be my oil outlet for the time being.

I was just joking. Filter hoarder!

 

When I did my old 88 it wasn't the lifters but the shaft that the rockers are mounted on. I'm sure you remember seeing this pic Adam.

 

 

Money permitting I'd do all lifters, rockers and shafts, it all depends on how crazy you want to go.

Holy @!*%. That pic looks familiar. Yeah I think I will save a few more pennies and do it all at once.

 

 

Thank you all!

[sewebster]

Some of my rocker shaft contact patches looked like that too.

 

You can also get 5w40 heavy duty oils.

[JamesRich]

nice to know....so basically rotella 15/40 is ok to run in our engines?

You can run rotella in anything! I have personally seen big trucks with 3406 cats go over a million miles on rotella. When I was in fleet maintenance we ran it in everything from the forklifts to the push mower they cut the yard with. Dodge vans, chevys, fords they all got the same oil from a drum. I hear on the boulevard forums many people use it in there bikes. My brother works for a survey company and they run it in everything including honda four wheelers. I have never seen a properly maintained engine go down with rotella in it. I even had a clark forklift that developed a bad oil leak. My boss from New Orleans kept promising to come swap it out for me but was always too busy. I finally quit putting oil in it and it ran for 3 weeks with no oil pressure on the gauge until he finally came pick it up. I was hoping it would lock up but it never did.

I run rotella in my four wheeler but still use mobile one in my other vehicles.

James

[BradleyB]

Can the lifters be disassembled, cleaned and re assembled? 91 3.0, I have had apart as far as the inner sleeve but couldn't get it out, any secret or tool? Released pressure by depressing ball valve and pulling up with a plastic rod but couldn't get the sleeve out. Any how to or suggestions.?

[adamzan]

Never took mine apart, but I did end up changing some of them money was tight at the time so I only changed the bad ones. Never had another issue with it. My friend still has the truck on his farm and it has over 300,000 miles on it.

 

I would just replace them, it is not really worth the time or probable pain in the arse factor to clean them. There is probably wear that cannot be fixed by cleaning.

 

FWIW the rocker shafts on mine were fine, it was just 2 or 3 lifters IIRC.

[BradleyB]

Thanks for the info. I have talked to Nissan mechanic and he said to just replace them but I know that easy to spend other people's money. I think I'll save and get new from Nissan. Would you use diesel to clean the varnish from lifter assembly?

[k9sar]

Can the lifters be disassembled, cleaned and re assembled? 91 3.0, I have had apart as far as the inner sleeve but couldn't get it out, any secret or tool? Released pressure by depressing ball valve and pulling up with a plastic rod but couldn't get the sleeve out. Any how to or suggestions.?

 

yes, they can be taken apart and cleaned. I put an appropriate sized socket (open end) over the end of the lifter and slammed it on the ground until the guts fell out. Worked like a charm to get them apart. reassembly is easy. As for putting them back in? dunno, never went there.

[k9sar]

Thanks for the info. I have talked to Nissan mechanic and he said to just replace them but I know that easy to spend other people's money. I think I'll save and get new from Nissan. Would you use diesel to clean the varnish from lifter assembly?

 

I used either coleman fuel (naphthalene) or even oven cleaner (the good stuff with lye). Cleans them right up. Here's an example when I rebuilt a dodge 3.8l engine...

 

[BradleyB]

Thanks I'll give a go.