unccpathfinder Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Brits=brkts in the posts above...stupid auto correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Brits=brkts in the posts above...stupid auto correct so your bumpers are mounted by funny accented tea suckers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) nunya- will do. pics will be up asap... unccpathfinder- your pictures are great! to bad i didnt have them before i started. they would be a great resource for anyone. i see you removed your bumper while it was on the brackets, definently the better way to do it. and i found out what those rectangular brackets are for from your pics also, to extend the bracket under the drive shaft! my directions dont even list these 2 parts on the parts list. i thought they were for the rad drop down kit. besides uploading each pic on photobucket and posting them seperately, i'm not sure how to link the winzip file Steevo sent to me with your pics so everyone else can see them. and yes, i will continue taking pics, and make sure i get the bumper install. i'm not even exactly sure how the bumper re-location brackets that come in the kit are supposed to work exactly, but i havent looked at it either. and i have a question regarding your rear bumper install. your directions: "Rear bumper Brits will slide straight up and cut the 2 stud plate in half to use it only uses 2 bolts on each side but the holes r in the bumper Brkts and frame and it lines up damn near perfect". i'll have to look at my rear bumper to get a better idea of what your talking about, but your method is different than just turning the brackets upside-down as nunya suggested, correct? your not talking about the same technique are you? thanks for your help. Edited July 8, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) so, i know this is off topic sort of, but i sort of brought it up before. maybe i should start a new topic? anyways, i'd like to hear from all you guys who live in Canada/northern States. has anyone ever had any ill effects while running a trans cooler in the winter? i know there's tons of threads on the subject of trans coolers, and i think i've read most/all of them, but there seems to be an un-decided consensus as to whether or not using a auxillary trans cooler in the winter in cold climates is bad or not. here in S.Ontario it really doesnt get that cold here during the winter (for canada). we get down to about 20*F/-7*C for the majority of the winter, with severe drops down to 0*F/-18*C at times, but this rarely lasts for more than 2 days at a time. i was thinking about maybe running the trans cooler in-line with the rad during the winter, or dis-connecting the trans cooler all together in the winter, but this sort of defeats the purpose of the trans cooler upgrade, if the stock Nissan system is flawed. so, what do you guys think? lets try and get a straight answer here. do people who live in cold climates have anything to worry about when using a auxillary trans cooler during the winter? thanks again guys, Josh Edited July 8, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) i notice most of you guys need to trim about 1" off the bottom of your fan shroud. does your guys' Pathfinder fan shrouds come in 2 peices like this? that small lower piece clips into the upper fan shroud on my truck. i'm thinking maybe if i just dont replace it, my fan shroud will fit just perfect? we'll see... just wondering how many little differences there are between the Pathy/Terrano, i'm curious... i know for a fact my steering shaft is slightly different. its a smaller diameter and it doesnt have the bolt i refer to as #2 in the very first picture of a Pathy i posted on this thread. and lots of other stuff.... Edited July 8, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 My 88 shroud had that piece, I think the 91 HB one did too but I never put it on when I changed rads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 hi guys, thanks for all the help. i got my body lift installed today. i removed the bumper, but not the bumper brackets, and the body was running into the bumper brackets attached to the frame and starting to lift the whole truck after awhile, and i couldnt tell at first. to me a bumper does not include its brackets, should have been written more clear, the instructions are poor. and i got my steering shaft extended, i had to pull it to get it extended. so now i just have to put everything back together, and swap my tires! and i ended up getting unccpathfinder's body lift manual from steevo today. i havent looked at it yet, but i'll see if i cant get it posted up here for the rest of you guys... thanks all again, josh Sorry, this what I should have said when I asked if you removed the bumper, but to me, once you have removed the bumper (without brackets) you can see if the brackets are lifting the chassis. That is the only thing I could think of that could possibly lift the body with it... Glad you got it figured out, I hate being stuck like that!! about the steering shaft, i'm wondering now what would have happened if i hadnt of removed the bolt, would the steering shaft extend on its own when i jacked up the truck? i think thats would i try if i was to ever help someone else. i'd just keep an eye on things as i raised it up, if it started slipping off the steering box before extending i'd stop. This is better done with 2 people IMHO. One can lift while the other monitors, pries, hammers, etc as appropriate. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) just wasnt sure about the fan shroud. the few pics i saw of the shroud on a Pathy i never noticed this second piece. anyways, i had to trim my fan shroud more than that anyways, i didnt drop the rad. i'm going to monitor the water temp as is first. just wanted to get my truck back together and go for a test drive. got everything back together yesterday except for the bumper/front grille. i just have to top up the fluids i drained off, and take her for a test drive! i had a little trouble getting my steering shaft back in. weirdest thing, the bolt didnt want to start threading its way through the same direction it came out. i tried and tried, it seems like the threads may be ruined. so i put the bolt back in starting from the other side, and got everything tightened up, so i hope thats ok. i'll have to monitor it, and maybe get a new steering shaft eventually (bummer). i also had a bit of trouble lining up the original divet on the steering box splines caused by the bolt in the first place. i heard you want the steering shaft to line up exactly where it was on the steering box splines, or the steering is rough. thats what my neighbour thought, who has mechanical experience, and i also read it on-line, but my manual doesnt say anything about this. i could clearly see the original divet caused by the bolt, so i thought i would be able to line it up easily, but maybe because i had to thread the bolt in from the opposite end from usual it was giving me trouble? anyways, what would happen is, whenever the bolt started the squeeze together both parts of the steering shaft around the steering box splines, the steering shaft would want to push itself off of the steering box splines, and it was hard to keep the bolt in the divet on the steering box splines. i'm a couple mm off from where it was in its original position, so i hope this doesnt make to much difference. has anyone had this problem, or know what i'm talking about? is there a trick to getting the bolt to thread in from the same direction it came out? i tried squeezing the steering shaft together with a clamp, so the threads would be closer together between the 2 peices the bolt squeezes, but that didnt make a difference. the threads seem fine, cause i can thread the bolt in from the opposite direction, but i cant think of what else it could be. the bolt came out really easily, it wasnt rusted, and i dont see how i could have ruined any threads by removing it. pics will be coming soon. just want to get my new mud tires on! a pic wont do it justice right now! but i love the way it sits, way higher. my truck is way bigger than my neighbours suv, which used to be about the same height as mine. it grew to about the same height as my other neighbours mid-size ford truck. my feet cant touch the ground when i swing my legs out the door anymore either, but i also chopped my running boards off during this body lift install, so that could have made a difference i'm not used to feeling also. and i love how i have access to my oil filter now! this will make oil changes WAY easier! i think my truck looks WAY better without the running boards. i'm trying to decide if i want to remove my stock fender trims/mud flaps, but i also wonder how much those mud flaps help prevent getting mud, etc up in everything?? maybe i will just remove the fender trim... now to upgrade my steering so i can get a suspension lift and move everything up away from the ground a little bit. also thinking of getting the Calmini skid plates for $200, but i'm not sure if i need their cross members also to bolt on the skid plate, or if the skid plate will bolt onto my truck as is? their cross member/skid plate kit is $500. more than i wanted to spend. but i do want to get a skid plate to cover up my tranny and drive shaft. now that i think about it, i wonder if my stock front skid plate will bolt back on with the body lift installed? anyone know? i want to get a new front skid plate when i get a steel bumper anyways. and i'd like to get a rear differential skid plate. the only one i've found is at 4 crawler Off Road, and its a weld-on only model, not bolt on. i dont have a welder, so i would have to pay someone to weld it on, and they dont have them in stock either, nor do they sound like their getting anymore anytime soon. i do want to get a welding unit one day. i'm waiting for a unit at canadian tire to come on sale for 50-70% off. and i really want to get those rock sliders from 4 Crawler eventually also! the list never ends does it.... Edited July 9, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 i think i will drill out the threads and retap my steering shaft. maybe get a helicoil.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Yea I kept the rear brackets on the rear bumper and moved it straight up and slightly towards the truck and I cut the rear bolt brkts in half...ill see if I can find the pics The front bumper brkts go on the 4 factory bumper locations and bolt to the bumper vertically....they suck bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 thanks unccpathfinder... about the front bumper, are you reffering to the 4 locations on the brackets, or am i supposed to use the re-location brackets instead of the factory brackets? i hear they suck. they'll have to do until i get a steel bumper... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Yea I kept the rear brackets on the rear bumper and moved it straight up and slightly towards the truck and I cut the rear bolt brkts in half...ill see if I can find the pics The front bumper brkts go on the 4 factory bumper locations and bolt to the bumper vertically....they suck bad I'd like to see those pics too as I am still not happy with how mine is lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 (edited) well, i put my Terrano back together yesterday and took her for a test drive. all was well, so i swapped the tires! I love it! I think my truck looks WAY better, especially with the mud tires, they really make a difference. and it feels like i'm driving in 4WD all the time cause the treads are so big! a little loud, but i dont mind. My steering shaft still kinda concerns me even though it seems to be holding tight. i just worry about loosing my steering at high speed. so i think i will drill out the threads and re-tap. maybe add a helicoil. and i still have to put my front bumper back on. here's some pics guys! thanks to everyone who has contributed, it is greatly appreciated! Edited July 10, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Very nice job!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 thats 2 wd21s on here (I can remember) with sr5 Toyota 4 spokers that they actually flow decently with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) thanks guys... got the trans cooler installed and bumper re-mounted today. still have to notch my floor for the t-case shifter, but i want to make a waterproof boot first. and fix my steering shaft... still have to put my floor boards back on also, and the weirdest thing, in the front they dont seem to want to fit back the same way. i cant get the carpet underneath without it pushing up the plastic floor boards. i dont see what could have changed, maybe i'm just tired... and i still have a handful of parts left from my body lift kit... i hate when that happens. but everythings done, and i cant think of what they could be for... i'll get a pic up, but from what i remember, i have 2 plats left that look similar to the bumper re-location mounts. come to think of it, i wonder if they're just different sized bumper re-location mounts? i had a heck of a time trying to fit my bumper back on, maybe i should have tried using the other plates?? and i have a handful of nuts, bolts, washers and hose clamps, maybe some are extra's, but i dont see why i have so many pieces left... Edited July 11, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Those sound like the hydraulic steering lines which I used on my 87 but not on the 95 I did BC of the change in hydraulic line rtgs...yes pics please of the front bumper on photobucket would be awesomeme so I can finish the instructions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I had a ton of stuff left over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I had a ton of stuff left over Me too actually. Bonus pieces can alwas give you 2nd thoughts over what you forgot. I think sometimes companies do that TO screw with people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) Nunya- yeah, i wouldnt be one bit surprised if AC just has a bunch of useless stuff thrown in the kit just to mess with us, hehehe... unccpathfinder- silliest thing. i had my camera out while i was installing my bumper re-location kit, and i snapped some pics, but honestly i had such a hard time figuring it out and trying to get it to fit, by the time i figured it all out i was just so happy to be finished. i'm not sure how many good pics i got, it totally slipped my mind once i got working on it... its really not very complicated, but for some reason it took me a minute to figure out. this is all new stuff to me. i've done more work on my truck in the last week than i have my whole life. it really was a great project for someone like me. maybe i'll gain enough experience to slide a D44 under my front end one day. i dont want to lift it really high, but i'd love to have the flex to keep my front tires on the ground... i wouldnt ever want to spend a fortune doing a SAS on my truck, but if i could pull a D44 for less than $500 and do the work myself, that is totally an option. steering and suspension upgrades are next... i think if AC included detailed written instructions, a couple pictures, and install directions in the proper order, it would make a total difference, and save a lot of time. i'll try and get this done eventually. i do believe anyone would benefit from looking at unccpathfinder's pics before they started, especially a beginner like me. i'll see if i can figure out how to link them. i've just been very busy lately. Edited July 11, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Also worth noting if u have air conditioning make sure the low side hose isn't rubbing on the mastercylinder or anything else...I rubbed thru on the gfs truck and had to replace a dryer and that line before recharging it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 well the picture from the back showing what i cut in half didnt come out but heres some others that will hopefully help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) unccpathfinder- ok, i'll check about those a/c hoses, i dont think anything's rubbing on mine though. i already made sure of that, but i will re-confirm, thanks... and your rear bumper lined up perfect. looks great. so you chopped the brackets in half and flipped them upside down, correct? and i had a look at my steering shaft again. my bolt has some damaged threads, so i got a new one, but it wouldnt thread in from the factory side either, so i guess i have some threads ruined inside the steering shaft as well. but for some reason the bolts hold tight when i thread them from the other side. as far as safety goes with my steering shaft, i did some testing and found that even if my bolt somehow threads itself all the way out, the steering shaft still wont fall off the steering box, and i still have control without the bolt in. i did some testing in a parking lot at first, and then on a quite street with tons of speed bumps, so i could see if any kind of movement could dis-lodge it. when the bolt is in, its holding really tight, i cant pull it out no matter what i do, and i dont see how it could un-thread itself all the way out anyways, if i didnt think it was safe i wouldnt be driving it at all, but the fact that it didnt come this way originally from the factory just kinda bothers me. i could drill out the old threads and re-tap. i have the tools, but i dont have a lot of experience, and i'd hate to ruin the steering shaft even more so that i cant even get a bolt to stay in. a new steering shaft is $130. so before i do that, i think i will try using a slightly smaller diameter and longer length bolt with captive nut to try and squeeze the steering shaft around my steering box. this great tip was given to me by kiwi pete... and i picked up some waterproof vinyl type material to try and make a t-case shifter boot. again, a little tip from kiwi pete... i want to find some rubber. you know the kind of thin rubber on your engine bay or in your wheel wells to keep mud/dirt out from engine bay? does anyone know where i could find this? i tried a fabric upholstery warehouse, but no dice... Edited July 12, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 and i picked up some waterproof vinyl type material to try and make a t-case shifter boot. again, a little tip from kiwi pete... i want to find some rubber. you know the kind of thin rubber on your engine bay or in your wheel wells to keep mud/dirt out from engine bay? does anyone know where i could find this? i tried a fabric upholstery warehouse, but no dice... If you want rubber rather than the vinyl, I would suggest you look for some thin silicone rubber as it is very flexable indeed, but I do not know what glue you would use to join the overlaps. I am thinking the type of rubber swimming caps are made of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Bumper brkts stayed stock the stud plate on the back is what I cut in half BC I didn't want to buy new bolts/nuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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