NissanNismoZ Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 (edited) Okay, so my CEL light has been off for a while..and now its back on, but then again this is my first 40 mile trip with it.. I pulled the codes and have these: 23 Idle Switch 45 Injector leak 12 MAF Sensor 34 Knock Sensor 51 Injector Circuit Any idea where to start?? Im guessing it MAY be the MAF wiring..but i dont know if it would throw that many codes.. The light seems pretty bipolar..it wont always come on.. but it stayed on all day today.. about.. 10 miles from home. Any suggestions where to start? Thanks! I appreciate it! Edited May 26, 2011 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 start with the MAF wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Yep, one code/issue may trigger another code/issue. Always start with the easiest/most cost effective/most likely, in this case the MAF and wiring... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Look for a vacuum leak. Listen for hissing or spray around vacuum lines and intake area while running and see if it stumbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 so far no vacuum leaks.. but.. i can be driving it for a while and no CEL.. and then another and the CEL be on. It doesnt run any differently with the CEL on.. i took apart the MAF today and cleaned it with MAF cleaner spray.. i cant afford the wiring harness..anywhere i should start? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 MAF cleaner has caused a few people problems. Alcohol and a gentle touch works well. What next? Drive it and see if it does it again. Since it doesn't leave you stranded, only change 1 thing at a time or you won't know what it was you fixed for the future... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 My maf wiring acts up all the time, and it has never once set a code for it. Maybe the sensor itself is bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Hmm..well..so far the CEL has stayed off.. since cleaning it and playing with the wires more.. maybe im good now? Maybe it was just dirty..maybe the wiring was just being crap.. I'll find out when it comes back on i guess.. but it was always the same codes listed above. it is acting better now, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 (edited) Heh..heh.. umm..so. I dont have a MAF code anymore..still had the others. So i gave up on it while my CEL was off and decided to try programming my remote..and..in the process you have to turn the key on.. so.. after a while..i started smelling fuel, ive always smelled it, but i was getting aggravated n thought id mess with something else.. So i look around the injectors..perfectly dry. I look to the front of the injectors, along the fuel rail..and notice this: I run and turn the key to ON and..notice fuel is spitting out of the ends of the line! I tighten up the clamps, turn the key to ON again..and..tada! No more leakage! and..No more CEL codes. So..i think i found my Injector leak code.. and..all of the others coz its actually acting better now..even MORE power under acceleration. Maybe this was my problem?? After all, this ends up being my fault for not checking all my clamps..i was just excited to get it started and running again! Edited May 4, 2011 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Dang. Makes me want to go out right now and inspect mine. I smell fuel every time I park the sucker. I can never locate the source though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 I havent had the smell again..yet. I guess from me constantly turning the key to ON kept turning my fuel pump on..so i'd turn your key to on..atleast 3 times or so n look under the hood for any leaks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Yep, it is a common issue. Glad you finally found it and it was a simple fix. Yes, one item can spawn several codes that are simply symptoms down stream so it can get confusing. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 It's nice to have it running better, and the peace of mind without a CEL.. Thanks everyone for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Yeahhh..scratch that. It's back..any ideas? Will check the codes tomorrow.. It came back on about a mile or so away from home (i went to work today) and went back off on my way back home about a mile or so away from home.. it does seem to have the 'ugh' effect up hills when the CEL is on.. any ideas? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) Ran the codes.. They're the same ones as before.. So i have new questions.. 23 Idle Switch <- What is this? 45 Injector leak 12 MAF Sensor <- Possibly bad/wiring getting no connection? 34 Knock Sensor 51 Injector Circuit What am i doing wrong? I'm thinking the Idle Switch or MAF may be causing the problem.. Edited May 7, 2011 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Tried some troubleshooting today (as far as i knew where to start) Tried wiggling some sensors.. and tried pushing hard on the throttle cables (nothing over 3k RPM though) to create more stress on the fuel lines.. no leaks But i did wiggle one sensor connector and it sounded like the idle dropped SOME but not much, its just it sounded quieter. I have a new problem, which may not even be a problem, my crankshaft, that turns all the belts looks loose, like it needs 'balanced' or something. It doesnt wiggle bad, but enough to notice.. Is that a problem? I'm totally lost.. I did look, and noticed my #6 injector wire is crushed between the harness and an intake metal piece, but it definitely works because i unplug it and it misses..so i dont know if its even a problem (once again, it would be my fault because i wasnt looking where i put the intake at..though i tried.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 I have a new problem, which may not even be a problem, my crankshaft, that turns all the belts looks loose, like it needs 'balanced' or something. It doesnt wiggle bad, but enough to notice.. Is that a problem? I'm totally lost.. Could be your harmonic balancer. I just had to replace mine (my Pathy and my Miata) because the darn things about split in two. It has rubber inside of it that will go bad over time with all of the engine heat and ozone. My buddy took a couple of pics when he changed it for me but I can't seem to find the one with the bad part. Anywho, here's the new one out of the box. If you look close you can see the rubber just inside of the rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Blehhh..just my luck, they're 75$ on RA Are they hard to replace on these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) 23 Idle Switch is in the Throttle Position Sensor. Essentially, it does nothing. Theoretically it tells the ECU when the throttle plate is closed so the IACV can adjust idle accordingly. Knock sensor... don't worry about it yet. That code pops up whenever there's another code for the most part. Check the pins on the MAF plug for corrosion and make sure they'll have a good fit to the prongs on the MAF sensor. Check the wires for cracks or frays. Wobbling harmonic balancer can be an issue if it gets really bad (like splitting in two). Most wobble a little bit at idle. Generally it sounds like your ECU is just really, really confused. Edited May 7, 2011 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 23 Idle Switch is in the Throttle Position Sensor. Essentially, it does nothing. Theoretically it tells the ECU when the throttle plate is closed so the IACV can adjust idle accordingly. Knock sensor... don't worry about it yet. That code pops up whenever there's another code for the most part. Check the pins on the MAF plug for corrosion and make sure they'll have a good fit to the prongs on the MAF sensor. Check the wires for cracks or frays. Wobbling harmonic balancer can be an issue if it gets really bad (like splitting in two). Most wobble a little bit at idle. Generally it sounds like your ECU is just really, really confused. Thanks for explaining that to me!! The MAF plug, i just cleaned the connectors, but it all looked good.. though i did see someone once squeeze the connector prongs for a tighter fit..im tempted to try it out, once again my CEL is off.. its like..gentle driving no CEL longer driving, under highway speeds, CEL I think the ECU is as confused as i am. As bipolar as it acts im wondering if there's a bad ground, somewhere.. Yeah, the harmonic balancer really only wobbles at idle.. so im guessing its fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrT Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Do you have a multimeter? It's pretty much the only way to tell if your MAF is working properly other than some blatantly obvious "MAF not working" issues. i.e. kicks into "limp home mode" and you have a MAF code. You test it by first making sure it's receiving the proper voltage and then seeing if the voltage steps properly when you increase rpm. If you don't have one already I highly recommend THIS. It will be your new best friend if your Pathfinder is anything like mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Do you have a multimeter? It's pretty much the only way to tell if your MAF is working properly other than some blatantly obvious "MAF not working" issues. i.e. kicks into "limp home mode" and you have a MAF code. You test it by first making sure it's receiving the proper voltage and then seeing if the voltage steps properly when you increase rpm. If you don't have one already I highly recommend THIS. It will be your new best friend if your Pathfinder is anything like mine. Hmmm.. I dont have one but that's actually really cheap for one.. I'll look into it. It'll be until next paycheck though..in about..2 weeks.. so ill see if i can borrow one for now.. Thanks for the info, but where would i test at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrT Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Yes, it's cheap and actually good. I got that exact model as my "first" meter. I have a better one now but that thing still works and it's not because I was nice to it. It's a pretty handy device to have in general too. As for where to test you do it at the ECU and at the MAF. Test at the MAF for the 12V source and at the ECU for the signal from the MAF. You'll have to consult the FSM for the correct pin on the ECU harness. It should also explain the procedure in greater detail and tell you what the voltage coming from the MAF should be at a given rpm. You'll have to be careful when you test at the sensor because it's weather sealed (at least it is on my R50) and you want to get under that but not tear or rip it. At the ECU is easy once you know which pin it is. And if you have someone else handy it makes it easier. That way they can jiggle the connector while you watch the meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Ok, I haven't logged on here in at least a few years. I used to have a really clean '88, but it got totalled by a red-light runner. Long story short, I just picked up a '93 5spd XE for $300 knowing I would have to put some money into it. It sat for 18 months before I got it due to an oil leak, but started with a jump, and drove onto my trailer under its own power. It idles fine, but starts rather slow, and if you give it any throttle, it stumbles and blows black smoke out of the exhaust as it is running pig rich. After pulling the codes, I have the exact same 5 codes you do. 23, 45, 12, 34, and 51. I have already pulled the injectors, re-sealed all of them, and ohm-ed them out. They are all good. If I find anything else, I will post up A.S.A.P. It has to be a similar issue to yours. I have already cleaned the MAF sensor, and done a compression check. I have very low compression on one cylinder, and it is leaking past the intake valve. I believe it to either be stuck, or bent. I am going to Seafoam the crap out of it to see if it will un-stick the valve, but have already ordered a full gasket kit in the event I have to tear the motor down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Ok, I haven't logged on here in at least a few years. I used to have a really clean '88, but it got totalled by a red-light runner. Long story short, I just picked up a '93 5spd XE for $300 knowing I would have to put some money into it. It sat for 18 months before I got it due to an oil leak, but started with a jump, and drove onto my trailer under its own power. It idles fine, but starts rather slow, and if you give it any throttle, it stumbles and blows black smoke out of the exhaust as it is running pig rich. After pulling the codes, I have the exact same 5 codes you do. 23, 45, 12, 34, and 51. I have already pulled the injectors, re-sealed all of them, and ohm-ed them out. They are all good. If I find anything else, I will post up A.S.A.P. It has to be a similar issue to yours. I have already cleaned the MAF sensor, and done a compression check. I have very low compression on one cylinder, and it is leaking past the intake valve. I believe it to either be stuck, or bent. I am going to Seafoam the crap out of it to see if it will un-stick the valve, but have already ordered a full gasket kit in the event I have to tear the motor down. That would be great!! See..my pathy sat for 2 years because it had a bad injector..and the owner didnt want to pull the intake and fix it (i can see why..it was a PAIN) I'm glad someone has the same codes as me.. Does your CEL seem to some on only some times? Like.. mine, under light driving (like back roads, not much throttle or stress) my CEL stays off..but under like highway speeds (we have lots of mountains and hills here) it comes on.. Thanks!! It would really be appreciated.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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