sewebster Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I'm talking about the big bushings that can cause the death wobble (thankfully mine aren't bad yet). Should I loosen everything while it's on the ground and then put it on a jack stand and use the jack on the lower control arm? No jacking at all? Jack it at the start? I read the death wobble thread again and it wasn't entirely clear. I saw some other recent discussion of how to do it easily, but I can't find it right now.... Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 (edited) It shouldn't matter. I've done it both ways and I noticed no difference other then it being easier to work with the tires out of the way. Do it like this and it should go more smoothly. -Remove the big end-nut from the compression rod (24mm wrench). -Remove the two bolts connecting the LCA (19mm wrench, 22mm socket). -Slide rod forward into LCA enough to clear bushings. -Remove old bushings. -Replace the rod into the frame with new bushings and washers in place against the bracket (don't forget the bushing sleeve). -Replace and tighten the end nut. Hold the compression rod steady with your 19mm wrench around the flat taper (As you tighten the end nut, it will be easier to align the holes for the LCA bolts). -Replace and tighten LCA bolts. -Soak tired forearms in Epsom salt taking care to keep out of knuckle wounds. I may get some flack on this (its a forum, there's always flack), but I've done this job three times in the last week and this is the best way I've found to do it. Edited February 5, 2011 by crazyhayseed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 (edited) no thats pretty straight foward aside from the wimpy arms lol. Hey I been tossing arround the idea of bolting the rods to the top of the LCA on my 89 since its lifted.(normally they are bolted to the bottom) My theroy is if you have over 2" of lift doing so can reduce brake dive and help keep castor angles more regular thru the wheel travel. Edited February 6, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 Got one side done today before I ran out of time. Cracking off the two bolts was tough, but the 3/4" drive ratchet came to the rescue. I realized I didn't have a 24 mm wrench, but 15/16 worked great (23.8 mm) on the end nut. Not entirely sure how I can torque that to 100 ft-lbs properly without a crow's foot socket, but maybe I can just go till the same number of threads are sticking out the end (11 in my case). Or go by feel. Thanks for the tips. Probably the other side will go by pretty fast now that I know what I'm doing. I also got the two rear sway bar end links replaced, those were more annoying due to the restricted working conditions, but the angle grinder helped me defeat them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I did what crazy did...I learned moving anything on the truck causes painful alignment woes in getting it back together so I park wheels straight undo the 24mm back bolt after breaking the other 2 loose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Not entirely sure how I can torque that to 100 ft-lbs properly without a crow's foot socket, but maybe I can just go till the same number of threads are sticking out the end (11 in my case). Or go by feel. What's this "torque" you speak of? Why would you want hundred pound crows feet? Just pull on that MF'er until the nut stops turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 no thats pretty straight foward aside from the wimpy arms lol. Hey I been tossing arround the idea of bolting the rods to the top of the LCA on my 89 since its lifted.(normally they are bolted to the bottom) My theroy is if you have over 2" of lift doing so can reduce brake dive and help keep castor angles more regular thru the wheel travel. Wimpy arms.... I don't see any reason for that not to work. It's not like it gets any more support form the normal position. I suppose there's only one way to find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 What's this "torque" you speak of? Why would you want hundred pound crows feet? Just pull on that MF'er until the nut stops turning. Hehe, yeah, that's pretty much what I ended up doing Unfortunately one of the compression rods itself has been eaten away so I guess I should replace it. It's probably got about 50% to 75% material remaining in the middle... the hole is undoubtably bigger than it should be too, but I'm not sure how much that matters... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hehe, yeah, that's pretty much what I ended up doing Unfortunately one of the compression rods itself has been eaten away so I guess I should replace it. It's probably got about 50% to 75% material remaining in the middle... the hole is undoubtably bigger than it should be too, but I'm not sure how much that matters... It does matter. If the hole is not repaired then the new bushings will wear out in a short time and if the rod gets thin enough it can snap. I have seen people fill in the rod and grind it smooth. Or just get new ones. For the hole I had someone weld a washer on the back and they filled it in and drilled it out again. Haven't had a problem since. I used new rods though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I welded a heavy 7/8" washer to the bracket. It was pretty close to the original size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 So if I'm repairing the frame part of things in addition to the rod, there are basically three pieces, the frame and the two "cups" that are welded on. In the other threads the cups have been successfully replaced with bearing races... so have you additionally welded washers onto the frame "inside" the races or what? Maybe with the races in good condition that is enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 when I owned my 87 Hardbody I was toying around with the idea of modifying the frame end to have a heim joint and eliminating where it goes thru the mount all together, I figured (at the time) that the heim joint would allow up and down movement but still hold the lower control arm in the position that it is supposed to be at. Confusing to picture, but what I meant was to say cut the strut arm, leaving the part with the bushings than welding a plate to the cut arm just front of the frame bracket with 2 thick metal tabs that a heim joint would sit in between, than attaching the heim joint to the rod going to the LCA. Never did it but it was a thought i had at the time, figured it would eliminate the frame mount holes from getting elongated. Just an idea I had years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 So if I'm repairing the frame part of things in addition to the rod, there are basically three pieces, the frame and the two "cups" that are welded on. In the other threads the cups have been successfully replaced with bearing races... so have you additionally welded washers onto the frame "inside" the races or what? Maybe with the races in good condition that is enough? Nah, just weld the washer to the frame. In my case, the front cups were pretty-much gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Nah, just weld the washer to the frame. In my case, the front cups were pretty-much gone. Are you saying you just got rid of the cups altogether? Wouldn't the system lose its centering ability then, meaning there would be nothing to keep the rod in the middle of the hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I think what he's saying is to weld the washer to the frame instead of the back of the race. Weld the Washer to the frame to fill the bigger hole, then once centered properly with the right amount of clearance for the rod, (about 1/16"-1/8" around the rod for suspension movement) you can then weld the bearing race to the frame mount. And just for clarity sake, the Torque spec for the compression rod to frame mount is 110 ftlb on the higher end of the acceptable spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 I think what he's saying is to weld the washer to the frame instead of the back of the race. Weld the Washer to the frame to fill the bigger hole, then once centered properly with the right amount of clearance for the rod, (about 1/16"-1/8" around the rod for suspension movement) you can then weld the bearing race to the frame mount. And just for clarity sake, the Torque spec for the compression rod to frame mount is 110 ftlb on the higher end of the acceptable spec. Ok, that generally sounds reasonable. But when you say "can then weld the bearing race to the frame mount" it seems to me that you'll be welding the race onto the washer you just added, right? My only concern with adding washers is being able to get the nut on the end of the rod. If there isn't enough thread sticking out, you'd have to squash those bushings to get the nut on, and squashing them without using the nut itself is likely hard. Thanks for the 1/16" to 1/8" number... that sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 If you're going to go crazy trying to mount these bearings you keep going on about, there won't be a need for washers. The way I mention is the cheap and easy way. Just fix the oblong holes in your frame buy welding the washer in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I just did this fix as well on my DD 89 pathy. the holes were wollowed out, and the "cups" destroyed. I rebuilt the holes with weld.. and teh cups.. get this, cheaper and easier than teh bearing up idea. As some of you know i have a ford radius arm suspension.. I change those busings like i change oil. the bushings ALWAYS come with new cups. wouldn't you know.. they are just about the exact same dimentions as the nissan cups down there. Hole size same, cup diamter same.. they are just a little thicker.. so, i welded one of these on each side, cleaned it all up with my die grinder.. and WHALA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Can you take a pic of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 when im back in the states.. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 so your saying, buy some Ford radius arm bushings and use those cups? what do those usually run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 the bushings are different,but the cups are very similar. you could find the cups in a junk yard. i just happend to have some extras, cause when i change the ford bushings, i don't always change the steel cup (no reason too, keep the good ones for spares, in case) just another option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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