Hawzzy Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 O.K....just finished up brakes on front...take it for a test drive and it pulls a bit to the left, brakes are good now but when i had them apart i noticed alot of resistance when trying to turn the drivers front wheel. NO...the brake isnt sticking and there isnt any grinding from it when i do turn it...but slow and hard to turn... So i jack the psgr side to compare and it turns much smoother. On the way down the snow covered rd i put it in 4WD and goose it...no prob...but when i slow down b4 my drive...the truck slows quick and then CLUNKED LOUDLY when i switched out of 4WD...and it also looked like the front end lowered a bit when it "shifted" out of 4WD. Didnt feel right at all. Im dumbfounded and am absolutely positve the brake isnt draggin!! HELP PLS Tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Dont know how r50s are set up but you have an auto hub maby thats hung up/stuck locked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Don't r50s just spin the front driveline all the time? My front left brake is messed up at the moment and dragging... but the caliper doesn't seem particularly seized... everything moves, but when I physically remove the caliper the problem is gone. Anyway, you say you have no doubt about this, so it must be something else. I guess that leaves wheel bearings and the drivetrain. Since you have the differential in there I'm not really sure how something could only affect one side? Did you try jacking both fronts and turning the passenger side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 You may have tightened the wheel bearings too tight on one side. Or the pads are hanging up in the caliper. Did you clean the part of the caliper that the pads rest in, and apply HI TEMP brake grease to the contact points of the pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 If the wheel hub was hard to turn then you probably over tightened the bearing lock nut. Did you follow the procedure in the FSM? I would take it apart and make sure the bearings didn't get burnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Don't r50s just spin the front driveline all the time? My front left brake is messed up at the moment and dragging... but the caliper doesn't seem particularly seized... everything moves, but when I physically remove the caliper the problem is gone. Anyway, you say you have no doubt about this, so it must be something else. I guess that leaves wheel bearings and the drivetrain. Since you have the differential in there I'm not really sure how something could only affect one side? Did you try jacking both fronts and turning the passenger side? I just put on calipers etc...i even removed it to check the drag issue...i also jacked up the other side to compare!!! Sucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 If the wheel hub was hard to turn then you probably over tightened the bearing lock nut. Did you follow the procedure in the FSM? I would take it apart and make sure the bearings didn't get burnt. But i didnt remove the rotors or wheel bearings...the rotors are fine...been replaced b4 so im stumped...i havent had the hub etc apart!!! tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 But i didnt remove the rotors or wheel bearings...the rotors are fine...been replaced b4 so im stumped...i havent had the hub etc apart!!! tye My best guess, is that you have a piston in your brake caliper that isn't retracting all the way (causing the pad to drag on the rotor). I thought that you replaced the calipers with re-manufactured ones? Even if you did, you could still have a bad caliper. My other suggestion was, and still is. MAKE sure you don't have one of, or both brake pads cocked in the caliper! I know this sounds impossible, since it's mounted on the truck. But believe me, I've seen some pretty amazing things when people try to 'strong arm' parts into fitting. I'm not saying you are like that, however from my own experince! I've managed to bung things up unintentionally! lol. My link Keith km@frozenrotors.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Something could be wrong with the bearing even if you didn't take it apart recently. Is your cv joint broken and rubbing against something? This seems kinda far fetched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Thanx for the respinses guys...i removed pads/swung caliper outta way so i know its not the brake draggin...there isnt any noticeable holes in or noise coming from the C.V.if i pull off the outer black cap and hub...what do i look for to indicate a toasted bearing...or will it be obvious??? Adam...i dont have a FSM just a Hanes...helps lots tho. From what i read about the bearings/hubsin my manual it seems like a pain in the ass....backlash, and spring retainers, that stupid beasring nut with the weird holes you need a special wrench for...CRAP! Tye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Probably you are looking for a change in rotation drag when you adjust the bearing locknut, or take it apart. If the bearings are really toast then it should likely be obvious... you need to inspect the bearing parts to see if they are worn etc. Remember the rear bearing is behind the hub (in front of the rotor). You will likely at least need a new grease seal if you take that apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Adam...i dont have a FSM just a Hanes...helps lots tho. From what i read about the bearings/hubsin my manual it seems like a pain in the ass....backlash, and spring retainers, that stupid beasring nut with the weird holes you need a special wrench for...CRAP! *sigh* Go to the Garage section and look for the pinned FSM topic, find a working link and download it for free. Bearings are not hard to deal with at all. All you are trying to do is make sure they are seated correctly, then setting them so they are not loose as play will allow wheel side load and that will damage them also. Not loose, but not too tight. I go to not loose and then the next locking screw hole. They want a spring tension gauge?? I tied a string to a 3 and 5lb weight and hung it from the wheel stud. Same thing if you think about it. Don't get overwhelmed, it's not something magical. Read about what you have to do, think about what you are trying to do, go and do it. what do i look for to indicate a toasted bearing...or will it be obvious??? Too tight will generate heat and damage, in that order. Is the spindle/hub hot after driving?? (some of this is from the brakes, I'm talking about real hot at the end of the hub) Does it feel crunchy when rotating it?? Do they they look tinted (not silver any more) or blue? Are there and visible metal slivers/particles? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 i have experienced hard thumps with auto hubs on ice/snow before when shifting in and out of 4wd but don't know much about r50s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 *sigh* Go to the Garage section and look for the pinned FSM topic, find a working link and download it for free. Bearings are not hard to deal with at all. All you are trying to do is make sure they are seated correctly, then setting them so they are not loose as play will allow wheel side load and that will damage them also. Not loose, but not too tight. I go to not loose and then the next locking screw hole. They want a spring tension gauge?? I tied a string to a 3 and 5lb weight and hung it from the wheel stud. Same thing if you think about it. Don't get overwhelmed, it's not something magical. Read about what you have to do, think about what you are trying to do, go and do it. Too tight will generate heat and damage, in that order. Is the spindle/hub hot after driving?? (some of this is from the brakes, I'm talking about real hot at the end of the hub) Does it feel crunchy when rotating it?? Do they they look tinted (not silver any more) or blue? Are there and visible metal slivers/particles? B Thanx B...just been a nonstop barrage of crap happening to the poor girl! Im not that mechanically inclined but if you own a vehicle that you play with/in/on, and want to keep it going..you gotta get yer hands dirty eh?? Good advice B...sometimes its good to get that little boost in confidence to get the job going/done. Ill go look for the FSM and take car of it!! Then work on the other 10 problems!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawzzy Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/ Thanx Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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