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krmiller07

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Everything posted by krmiller07

  1. From my experience with my 89. It's not required, but a very good idea for proper operation. I converted and the only required parts were the low or hi pressure fitting to fill with R- 134. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
  2. Both injectors and the ECU has been tested, replaced. The engine still cuts out both under load and just running while parked. What happens when the I2 sensor fails? Will the OBD in the ECU still show a code 51. Any other ideas? This defies logic ! Thanks and I look forward to your reply. Krmiller07 Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
  3. I recently had both injectors replaced, along with trying 2 different ECU's. One which was remanufactured, and one from a running Pathy in the salvage yard. The problem is that the 'primary' #1 injector cycles and sprays normally, and then when the 'secondary' or #2 injector is suppose to cycle or 'spray' it wont do anything past 2800 RPM's. The ECU goes into 'fail safe' mode. Confirmed power to both injectors, and have eliminated any possible problems from within the wiring harness, from splicing into the wiring harness and bypassing the main harness, to get power directly from the battery and running a 'hard wire' to eliminate the rest of the harness coming from the plug out of the ECU. The ECU is showing a 'code 51', which is suppose to be the fuel injector circuit. However, the truck will only run on one injector and then starts to cut out or miss fire when revved past 2800 RPM's? I have now tried 2 different pair of injectors and the same #2 injector fails, and 2 different ECU's thinking the driver was fried on the original ECU. Both ECU's have the same and correct part # as the original the truck was built with. Has anyone else on here had this problem, or an idea what might be causing this? I've had the truck at a tech's shop for over a month and he's as stumped as I am. Would a faulty throttle position sensor (TPS) cause this. Any help, Idea's and comments would be greatly appreciated! : ))) Thanks krmiller07
  4. That's probably the lead to the oil pressure sending unit that runs to the 'idiot light' in the instrument cluster. When all 3.8 qts of oil are gone that light (if hooked up) illuminates just before your Con Rods blow out the oil pan !
  5. I am currently dealing with the problem of not having the #2 injector firing or squirting after having both of them rebuilt by GB Manufacturing in Long Beach, CA. The injector tech told me all rebuilt or remanufactured injectors are bench tested for spray pattern and OEM volume. The tech that diagnosed this repair was trying to determine why my VG30 was going into 'fail safe' mode and limiting the RPM's to 2800-3000 PRM's before the truck started 'bucking' and jolting until the rpm's dropped below 3000 RPM. (CODE 51) from the ECU. He says he has a signal to the injector from the ECU, but the injector wont fire. Has anyone else encountered this? Could the TPS cause the problem. Also what is the correct procedure for clearing the fault codes from the ECU? I'm just throwing possibilities out there to see if anyone else has encountered this. Been working on it for 2 weeks and growing frustrated, as the problem started all of a sudden. Otherwise the truck runs and warms up normally until 3000 RPM is reached and 'Fail Safe' kicks in! Thanks for any help or suggestions. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks. I pm'd Kingman too. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
  7. I am currently dealing with the problem of not having the #2 injector firing or squirting after having both of them rebuilt by GB Manufacturing in Long Beach, CA. The injector tech told me all rebuilt or remanufactured injectors are bench tested for spray pattern and OEM volume. The tech that diagnosed this repair was trying to determine why my VG30 was going into 'fail safe' mode and limiting the RPM's to 2800-3000 PRM's before the truck started 'bucking' and jolting until the rpm's dropped below 3000 RPM. (CODE 51) from the ECU. He says he has a signal to the injector from the ECU, but the injector wont fire. Has anyone else encountered this? Could the TPS cause the problem. Also what is the correct procedure for clearing the fault codes from the ECU? I'm just throwing possibilities out there to see if anyone else has encountered this. Been working on it for 2 weeks and growing frustrated, as the problem started all of a sudden. Otherwise the truck runs and warms up normally until 3000 RPM is reached and 'Fail Safe' kicks in! Thanks for any help or suggestions.
  8. Hmmm... That's what I was trying to tell you all along. You could invest in a Mighty Vac system. The one made by Speed Motive and never have to go to a shop again. Plus you can do all types of foreign and domestic brake systems. It's a one man job that way too. Money well spent IMHO. Glad you go it fixed. Many people forget that brake fluid absorbs moisture as soon as the seal on the bottle is broken. All of the trapped moisture in your brakes system corrodes every thing and eventually will ruin the cylinder bore's of both the calipers and wheel cylinders make life rather unpleasant when you really need to stop! Do a complete fluid flush and bleed at least every 2 years no matter how many miles you drive. It's like sex...do it at least twice a year whether you need too or not ! Lol. ; )))
  9. What brand of belt is this. Perhaps it's a reinforcing layer introduced by the manufacturer, since this belt probably has more than one application in the Nissan World that is more current?
  10. Have you rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders lately? Or adjusted the shoes in the drums?
  11. Not necessarily. A gravity bleed is not the same thing. The air still clings to the inside of the caliper piston and sometimes the walls of the brake lines. You may also have a caliper with a stuck piston preventing full travel while your bleeding. How old are the calipers? These trucks are getting old and brakes are not lifelong components and they wear out just like everything else. Especially in the environment they work in.
  12. Either you still have air in the system or your brake booster maybe on the way out. Or your 'new' M/C is defective? Try tapping each caliper with a plastic mallet or similar tool while your bleeding that corner. Sometimes air bubbles will attach themselves to the inside of the calipers and lines. I usually buy a large container of brake fluid and 'power flush' the system when I bleed the brakes. To do this you simply 'crack open' the bleeder and have someone pump the pedal several times while adding fluid to the reservoir. You don't want to let the reservoir run empty or you'll have to do it all over again. Once a fair amount of fresh fluid is present in the bleeder bottle. Close the bleeder and pump the pedal about 6 times and hold while slowly opening the bleeder. You'll usually see some bubbles escape. keep doing this until all you see is fluid with out bubbles and then move onto the next corner until they all have been done this way. You should end up with a consistently firm pedal. If not then you have other problems. Such as a defective 'new' M/C.
  13. Precise1, How much are you asking for the spare ECM? I have an 89 with a 5 speed and have been considering making the intake swap to a MPFI since I have a complete spare engine and intake someone gave me. I'm just not sure of it's condition internally since it sat outside for a few years. You can PM here and I can either reply or send you my personal email address. Look forward to your reply. Thanks krmiller07
  14. I know. That's why you need to remove the small bolt and install a zerk. Or you can drill and tap the appropriate sized hole and install the zerks.
  15. That's where I would start. Ball joints can be greased as long as there is a grease zerk on top of the ball joint or in the center. If you decide to replace the ball joints, it's worthwhile to install these grease zerks before installation and for future lubrication maintenance. Like I indicated, having the entire front end greased or having a 'chassis lube' performed would be where I'd start. Then you'll have a base line for maintenance records and future reference.
  16. Wow...when was the last time you had the entire front end lubed? Tie rods, center link, steering links etc....
  17. I've never heard a ball joint 'squeal' in 30 + years of working on my own vehicles!? Is that like a squealing muffler bearing??? Lol.
  18. You won't be disappointed with the Hawk pads. I've used them on my 89 the last 2 pad changes. My 3800 lb. Pathfinder stops nearly as good as a sports car. I'd go the extra step and have the rotors cryo treated. That will help insure the rotors will probably be the last set you install. I've had the same set of cryo rotors on my truck for the last 6 years and it's a daily driver. Wear thickness isn't even close to being close to the wear tolerances suggested by the factory for replacement.
  19. Now that looks like part of a friction disc from the clutch pack or perhaps a piece of a thrust washer? Is it solid metal, or metal with friction material on it?
  20. I would be worried...very, very worried! Lol. Just messin' with ya. As an former Indy Car Gearbox specialist, I'd say it looks like part of the clutch pack starting to let go. It's obviously not going to heal itself by changing the gear oil, or even the type. How many miles are on your truck? The gear oil that came out my not have been compatible with a LSD, and started the problem? If it's a chunk of metal, than most likely the start of a spider gear failure...
  21. James, What were you running for timing when it was set up with the stock TBI system. I've considered doing the same conversion in the past, however locating the distributor was a huge PITA! Also wondering what size, and type of carb did you wind up using with this setup. Any other tid bits of info you care to share!? Cost of the distributor? BTW, it does look great. But I am wondering why you just didn't convert over to a MPI system.
  22. The is on my 89, and that's a 2 door. Once you get those screws out, change them over to something with a different heard on the (hex head) and a dab of anti - seize will assure you that rust will prevent them from breaking off or stripping the head out again.
  23. My 89 started doing this. I read a TSB from Nissan, on Identifix.com, where I work. And Nissan actually recommended that after the warmest t-stat was installed, to actually partially obstruct the radiator from air flow! This is no BS. I verified this with our hotline tech's who are specialized by OEM, and the Nissan Master L 1 tech told me about this. He has over 25 years of Nissan experience to draw from. So I went to a big bow store and bought an 1/8" thick piece of mica board, and started cutting out some area's to find the right balance of air flow (cooling) to heat. Taking a trick from road race and NASCAR, I started to close off the open areas with duct tape until the temp gauge would stay steady at 1/2 way, after the truck idled stationary with no air moving across, except from the fan. It's inexpensive, easy and only takes 10 minutes to pull the tape off, by taking the 2 bolts off the top of the radiator and tilting it back far enough to remove the mica board and add or remove tape. Sounds kinda hill billy, but it works. I live in central MN, and sub zero temps are mot un common. My cabin temp was always toasty, but the engine seemed to run cool. I'll see what happens in a few weeks when the temp moves the other way!

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