krmiller07

I ran into this problem on my 89 Pathy. First of all, I found that depending who makes the belt can determine the actual size! Even though the catalogs may say 'xyz' will fit. In reality, it was either to long or too short! I eventually took the old belt with me to the auto store, and bought 1 belt longer, and 1 belt shorter than what the catalog was recommending, and eventually found one that was in between. In my case, it turned out that a 'factory' OEM length belt made by Gate's worked and fit the best.

James, I have heard that the Pulsar plugs with a capacitor in them work very well too. They are pricey but a friend of mine put them in all his vehicles including his boats, he claims his his mileage increased along with performance. Enough to feel and see the changes. I also no that some gains can be made by cryo treating spark plugs and other electrical components!Cryo freezing spark plugs apparently increases the plugs ability to transfer the electrical charge to the electrodes producing a stronger more consistent spark. Hope this helps, Keith

Thanks James Rich for the compliment I personally would use the 'Frozen Rotor' brand (Slotted). I no longer work there, but I know the products well. Don't let them sell you anything else. Like the 'Power Slots' or the 'Street Sport Cryos. (Slotted and Cross drilled) Ask them what brand of rotor they are going to use before they cryo treatThere are different grades of rotors.(Just like tires). Typically they would use a NAPA or Raybestos brand rotor, or a brand call Mountain(Made in Japan) these are all a 'ultra-premium' grade rotor with superior metallurgy over some of the lower quality brands being marketed by other companies online, and 'cryotreated' to extended wear. The problem with the 'other' online companies, is they start with the lowest quality and less costly rotor beinging with and TRY to bring it up to a higher quality by cryo treating it. To use the analogy by grandfather used to use...If you paint a turd gold...you still have a gold painted TURD!. The cryo treatment process is key here. Frozen Rotors always treats for 60 hours total. his includes a critical heat cycle which completes the process. Anyways, slotting (not cross drilling) will help extend and lower the temperaturesatures by about 130 degrees as well. And they won't crack from repeated heat cycling, lasting on average over 100% longer than stock NON treated rotors. Most customers have reported wear increases of 300-500% over a NON treated rotor. As for pads. I use the Hawk Brand 'LTS' pads. They are actually a Light Truck, SUV (LTS) compound. I have them on my pathy, and they work great. No squealing, minimal dusting, and superior stopping performance,work well in all tempatures, without fading. Alot of people will argue spending the extra $$$ for all this. Especially on a Pathy ot 4x4 that typically doesn't see alot of high speed use. Well in my opinion, you still have to stop the vehicle, and some times it's in an emergency situation where you have little or No advanced warning. it only takes a few feet and expressure preassure to permanently warp a set of NoN treated rotors, and then they are shot. You can have them turned, but 99% of the time the problem comes back in a few hundered miles. Cryo treated and a HIGH quality pad will probably last the life of your truck and be much safer. So, in my opinion, they are worth extra $$$. Tell them I sent you, and press them to give you at least a 10% discount! : ) Hope this helps. Keith (krmiller07)

Nooooo, Spray it down AFTER you wash it. WD-40 helps displace water!

Yes. I do tune ups on a regular and almost religious basis. We don't have emissions testing in MN so that's not a concern. The last tune up was performed this fall. Checked and replaced all the normal stuff. Plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, fuel filter. Run Sea Foam through the system just to keep or help clean the injectors (2) from gumming up. I set the timing 2 degrees advanced, just in an effort to help with mileage on the highway. Recently replaced the Head temp sensor behind the distributor and have replaced nearly all the vacuum lines (where they would matter) Mechanics whom I have gone to for advise and help, have commented on how well it runs! But I still avg about 8-10 mpg in town and maybe 10-12 mpg on the highway. Compression andleak downn tests are all within spec. I even over inflate the tires in an effort to reduce rolling resistance! I had one of these trucks new, when they first came out, and I remember they were never know for stellar fuel mileage, but I don'trememberr them being this bad! I'm about out of ideas!

Thanks. I haven't had a catalytic converter on this truck since shortly after buying it. The exhaust system was rotted and I had the guy just cut off the system from just before the mounting flange. I'm currently running a 'stockish' sized exhaust pipe from the old cat mounting point all the was back to the end, with a OEMreplacementt sized muffler. I think the OD size of the exhaust, tail pipe and muffler in put and out put sizes are 2 1/4 "'s. I am still using the EGR along with the 'pre-heater' under the throttle body to assist in warm up. (I live in Minnesota) so during the winter, it tends to cool off a bit! I have heard of some people eliminating the TBI heater all together due to there tendency to fall apart and get sucked through the intake system! Quite frankly, my fuel mileage really sucks (no pun intended) and I don't run an aggressive tread pattern on the tires(all season/ all terrainalthoughugh the engine runs extremely smooth with great throttle response and idle and normal warm up characteristics. I would really like better fuel mileage, and if I happen to pick up a few HP, thats fine too! I have an SE, so the tire siremainsins stock at 31-10.50-15, with a mild lift in the way of JGC rear springs and cranked up front torsion bars. I noticed I also have what looks like an 'idle mixture' screw on the back drivers side of the TBI. I have read a post on here that sometimes can effect the mileage, but I haven't seemed to find the happy medium in which to adjust and set it properly. Some have said turning tsewcew 'in' will richen the mixture, while others have said, it will do just the opposite and richen the mixture? Has anyone confirmed this?

This may be a bit off topic, but I am wondering what a 'BPT' valve is. I have an 89 VG30 and don't recall seeing or reading about a BPT valve in any manuals or FSM. I do know there is an 'AB' or anti-backfire valve / vacuum solenoid that has a small rubber hose running up to the air cleaner canister. I also notice that when it's warming up and just before it comes off of high idle during warm up, it has a tendency to 'pop' or back fire just a little bit, before idling at a normal rpm. How important is the 'AB' valve and what would happen if it was removed/ bypassed or eliminated? As for removing the EGR, in an effort to increase power and fuel mileage. Has anyone experienced any 'real time' benefits to this? Or is it all seat off the pants and visual fuel gauge readings that you are going off of? Thanks

I bet it does ! lol

It keeps the engine and electronics hot enough to prevent moisture from developing on the electrical and causing the problem you described. I personally, like to spray down the entire engine and surrounding bay area with WD-40 to prevent any water / moisture from seeping into the electrical connections and it keeps everything looking good as well helping prevent corrosion from building up.

I was under the impression he washed out his interior! Not the engine compartment. In which case he should pull the dist. cap and spray it out as well as all the plug wires. Or grab the plug wires while the truck is running and see (Feel) where the spark is jumping from ! JK!lol Probably getting a spark jump or ground somewhere causing the stumble or hesitation.

I'd try drying out the connection to the ECU under the passenger side seat. Pull the connector and blow it dry with compressed air and possibly some WD-40.

Has anyone had any issues with the TB units, where 2 injectors are used ?

Personally, I wouldn't use the Poly bushings. They have a tendency to crack, squeak and eventually fall apart. I was lucky enough to find a set on here from a member that sold his truck before they were replaced. I would check Rock Auto and even NAPA, they have and or carry the factory rubber inner and metal outer sleeve bushing similar to the factory stuff. My trucks bushings were so bad, that when i took the trailing arms off the truck, the insides literally fell apart. prior to that. when ever I lifted off the throttle or applied it. The truck would snap side ways, trying to over steer. If the bolt would have broken, I suspect i would have driven off the road a few times! The bushings themselves a pretty easy to remove and install. Once the rubber inner material is removed, simply take a sawzall or hack saw, and cut the outer metal sleeve into 4 sections. Then take a flat nosed 'drift punch' and drive the 4 pieces out with a hammer. To install the new bushings, simply find a socket the same size as the outer metal sleeve of the bushing and start tapping around the bushing until it starts to go into the arm. Once it's started keep driving the bushing in, until it's all the way through the arm and equally on both sides. Put the arms back on the truck, and drive in a straight line once again! Hope this helps.

When, and if you use Sea Foam through the brake booster vacuum line. Pour it directly down the booster hose very slowly (partially covering the top of the bottle with your finger). The natural vacuum will suck the liquid out of the can as you're pouring. This alone will prevent Hydro-lock. Your engine will actually want to stall as you pour this in, so turn the idle adjustment up when doing this. That is after you figure out what causing the High idle in the first place. Vacuum leaks can cause high idle, however it will also cause rough idle as well. As for the location of vacuum line. I wouldn't bother going to a dealer. There is no 'kit' available that I know of. You can go to any auto parts store and buy it by the spool. Or by the foot. Look at the lines you want to replace, and get an approx. idea of how much you need and buy a couple feet extra is a safe way to go. Spraying carb cleaner on and around the intake manifold and throttle body is a great way of locating vacuum leaks, as the idle speed will change if a leak is present.

If your thermostat is 'stuck' open, then all the coolant circulates through the block and possibly the heater core(If the temp switch is on 'hot'). All the cold coolant will trigger the ECM indicating a cold environment, thus longer warm up and High Idle. After the temp gauge comes up to normal operating temperature, the idle should come down to normal. which is around 800-900 rpm's. Depending on whether it's been adjusted higher. If you have alot of miles on the engine, carbon build up might contribute to this as well(however it would be odd)Carbon build up usually brings on detonation or 'pinging' if you don't have a knock sensor, poor mileage (worse than the average Pathy!)and overall poor performance. It's worth a try, using the Sea Foam. I'd run it through the fuel system, via adding it to your gas. Then run about 1/3 of the bottle through the brake or PCV vacuum line, as per the instructions on the bottle. Theres also several YOU TUBE videos you can reference to choose which method you feel comfortable with. If you choose to add it to the oil, I'd plan on replacing it along with the filter after no more than 200 miles.It is a solvent and will break down the viscosity of the oil, and possibly cause any debris or sludge to get trapped in the oil filter.

I'd also check or replace the wiring (especially the pig tail to the Head temp sensor for broken connectors), connections and Head Temp Sensor. Throttle position sensor, clean the Mass Air Sensor on the throttle body. I live in a cold climate (for the winter) and when I warm up my 89 which has a throttle body, I turn the temperature control all the way over to cold (in the cabin) as so all the engine coolant is circulating through the engine (instead of going through the heater core) until the temp gauger is at least 1/4 way off the cold position. Then move it over to the hotter position to provide interior heat. This helps warm the engine faster, however all the pathy's I've owned seem to be cold blooded. There may be different heat ranges available for the engine thermostat, but I'd perform a thorough diagnostic on the throttle body and associated components before changing the thermostat. BTW...when was the last time you flushed the coolant and replaced it with the right mixture of coolant to water and properly bleed the air out of the system? This can throw it off too. Air can get trapped in the cooling system causing problems as well. Get a FSM or a Haynes manual and check the adjustments of all the Throttle body and emissions related components while your in there.

Cheaper and easier to replace it! (NAPA sells them)

I think the point here is that when used according to the manufacturers recommendations, and based on what solvents it contains it works as designed. Of course you have to use it at you're own discretion. I have torn down engines that have had sea foam run through them, and I have to admit they looked better (given the amount of miles on them). I personally replaced the engine in my Pathy 2 years ago, with an engine that came from a donor truck out of CA. After pulling the valve covers and replacing the gaskets I noticed alot of sludge and varnish on the rockers, springs etc... Obviously this truck hadn't seen very regular oil changes, and the compression was acceptable, but on the low side. I knew the guy that owned the donor truck, and it had 46,000 miles on it, and owned it from new. After I replaced the oils and filter 3 times within 500 mile intervals, I ran the Sea Foam treatment through it, and the lifters quit making noise at start up, the compression came up, and ran much smoother. The oil, when replaced did appear thinner, but I only ran it through the crankcase for 200 miles before changing it. A month later I pulled the valve covers and a majority of the sludge, varnish and build up had seemed to have gotten better. Now I just run it in the fuel, every other tank fill.

That is a personal preference. Fuel quality and consistency varies a great deal. Living in the upper mid west, and dealing with 'winter blends' seems to be an ongoing struggle. For me, this is just 'cheap insurance' in keeping the fuel stable, and the injectors and fuel system a little cleaner.

Well, as one who is usually very skeptical about any product or 'magic in a bottle / can'. I can say, that after using it on several vehicles, including my Pathy. I've never experienced any negative or harming results. I have used it in the fuel (one can every other fill up) in the crank case before an oil change, and run it through the vacuum line (Brake booster hose). The results of including it in the gas, has resulted in a smoother idling engine, with a little better pulling power. Of course this is a 'seat of the pants' result. I noticed the truck seems to pull a little harder than with out sea foam. As for running through the vacuum lines, it did clean alot of varnish off the rocker arms, as viewed through the oil fill hole on the valve cover, and it blew alot of crap out the exhaust pipe after the truck was running in the garage. (Noted by the black carbon deposits on the wall!). I would recommend changing the oil and filter after adding it to the oil after no more than 150 - 200 miles. I doubt it adds any significant horsepower improvements, even though the engine does feel like it runs smoother when mixed with the fuel. There are a number of videos on you tube, with various automobiles and opinions as to it's effectiveness. When used properly and according the instructions, and recommended oil change intervals, I'd say it shouldn't do any serious harm or damage. Just my opinion.

I'd dsconnect the 'reverse motion sensor' and store it in a heated garage! lol

No I don't. I would imagine that after a few years, and miles. the manifold may take a 'determined' effort to remove. I would look at a repair manual or FSM to determine that you have all the bolt's and fasteners removed, and there is nothing hidden which could hold you up from removing this. Cheers

I understand this a common problem on the VG 30. When I did my timing belt and water pump etc.. last fall, the guy at Factory Nissan in TX ~ I think mentioned that there is a coolant pipe with a rubber connecting hose, that runs underneath the intake manifold. That is prone to leak and drive people crazy trying to locate the source. Because it runs under the manifold, it especially hard to locate hence most people ignore it until it turns into a gushing leak. I would look a little closer at that as a cause.

Ok, then that can partially rule out the transmission. It sounds like it may be coming from the rear end or differential? Because the sound seems to change with wheel speed my instincts lead me to wonder if you may have something simple going on. A brake shoe/pad rubbing? Perhaps the parking brake is sticking or has come apart? Does your truck have rear disk or drum brakes? I'm just throwing some ideas out there. Hope it helps.

Does it continue to make this noise when the clutch is disengaged or pedal to the floor?