krmiller07

I have a similar question. I have an 89 SE - Pathy, and I had to replace the instrument cluster do some gauge malfunctions. The cluster, speedo, tach etc. came from a Canadian rig, where the speedo gauge is in both Kilometers, as well am MPH, with Kilometers per hour being predominant on the gauge. The question I have is, would the gearing in the cluster from a Canadian cluster be any different from a USA model throwing of the odometer, and trip meter readings? I too, also run stock sized 31" tires and a 5 speed. I'm more interested in the potential impact this may have on mileage readings, than the speed I'm traveling? Thnaks

That's interesting. Just don't start bragging about your 3rd uncles cousin's aunt who is a wizard and worked as a consultant on all the Harry Potter movies, that tweaked your ECM so you get 1000 bhp at the rear wheels using a lawn mower dyno, and 200 mpg after shaving the door handles and removing the headlights for maximum aerodynamic efficiency in the wind tunnel built out of a utility shed made by Montgomery Wards that you picked up at rummage sale in Tibet...! LOL. This is obviously a sarcastic joke related to someone posting on here about a month ago that specialized in talking out of his A** using braille' KM

Where did you find these? That is a good deal, and I'd like to grab a pair. Thanks for the post.

Well...ok then. Who reprogrammed the ecu and where did you find the chip, and for what vehicle. I've never come across any chips for the pathfinder?

Who or where did you get this 'flashed' ECU EPROM?

Absoulutly !

What is the advantage of using the ER TPS, and the ER throttle body? I have been considering either swapping from the factory TBI set up, to either the 2 barrel car set up that Mr. 510 has done on the 510's. Or swapping to a MPFI intake and hardware? I have a complete spare motor with the MPFI intake on it, however I'm not sure of what other changes would have to be made to get this to work on my 89 with the stock TBI set up. I know Kingman used a 300 ZX intake system, but he also had to re-wire every thing, and modify the fire wall to accomodate the intake plenum. Have any ideas or feed back on this? Thanks.

Your truck is TBI, not MPFI. Before you pull the timing cover off and all the stuff needed to get into it that far, I would be more inclined to replace the coolant temp sensor on the top side of the drivers side cylinder head...and or the connections. There a 'pig tail' connector on there that can throw some wierd running symptoms. I wouldn't be to concerned about a distributor, given the mileage of the truck. It doesn't make sense that it would be that worn. Unless of course, you can move the rotor and shaft side to side, or up and down by a fair amount. Some rotational play would make sense, given the fact that there will be some 'play' in the dist gear and the cam gear. Enough to maybe cause 2 degree's of rotational play. Try the sensor, clear the codes and see what happens.

Since you like to diagnose your car problems at night! I'd peek under the hood when it's dark, and see if you are getting any 'cross firing' between plug wires or anything associated with the ignition system. It's not unlikely that small cracks in the cap or plug wires 'grounding' to them selves or anything they rest on could cause a misfire! If you feel bold, try moving the plug wires around by hand, and see if you get 'sparked' !

After lookng at what you took out, I am surprised it rotated at all...what a mess ! Thanks for the post.

I would like to know how you manage to accomplish 'optimal' fuel mileage, especially since you claim 30 MPG with a TBI equipped motor? You insight would be greatly appreciated by those in this community. Thanks, and Merry Christmas.

Absolutely. I'd run some hot water through the hose first, just to soften it up and make it more flexible.

Garden hose works great ! ; ). Hahahahahah Actually, Hydraulic hose should work just fine, since it made to be exposed to petroleum based fluids.

After doing this and watching for air bubbles coming out of the hoses on the nipples, repeat on the other 2 nipples openin one in front and one in back. Then close off all the bleeders, pump the pedal until it's nice and firm. Keep preassure on the pedal while cracking open one bleeder at a time, starting with the passenger side rear. Rotate around the truck bleeding each caliper at a time until you finish in the front drivers side. AND MAKE SURE THERES FLUID IN THE RESIVOIR AT ALL TIMES. If the pedal is still soft after this. Change the M/C.

It sounds like you have a bad M/C. I would try to preassure bleed the entire system before replacing. When you pumped the pedal during bleeding, did you push the brake pedal all the way to the floor? I have ruined new M/C's by doing that. Have someone in the truck when bleeding and have them pump the pedal with 2 bleed screws partly open, but pump in shorter strokes, being carefull NOT to bottom it out on the floor. Watch the fluid level in the resivoir, never allowing it to run dry and introduce air into the system.

Out of curiosity...what fixed your problem ?

Another option to having the races pressed in, is to put the new races in a freezer for at least a 1/2 hour. While they are cooling off, use a hand held MAP gas or propane torch to heat up the outer hub with the brake rotor on it, making sure to heat it evenly all the way around the hub. Theres NO need to get it so hot it starts turning cherry red or glowing hot. Just hot enough for the metal to expand and allow the bearing races to either fall out, or they will drop out after you rap the assy on a piece of wood when you bang it on a shop table. Once the old race has been removed. Re-heat the hub assembly, and take the NEW frozen bearing race and drop it into the hub. Once it cools off, it will be fit squarely inside the bearing and hub. No need for a press. What happens here, is the metal where the bearing race lives, will expand from the heat, while the new 'frozen' bearing race will contract or shrink by freezing it. Once the whole thing returns to room tetemperatureith the race is installed, everything fits nice and snug and is fit 'squarely' in the hub assembly with no chance of the race becoming 'cocked' or crooked in the hub from pressing it into place. Hope this helps.

I've heard good things from people who've used these guys too. www.witchhunter.com

You can try these guys. www.witchhunter.com.

Have you tried cleaning them with a fuel system and intake cleaner ?

I agree. The MMO is just to lubricate the top end, and will probably do nothing to remove carbon build up. My thinking here is similar to using the 'lead additive' to unleaded fuels. Strickly personal preference and my own observations during tear downs of higher mileage motors, from people who don't like to change their oil more than once a year! ; ). There is a TSB floating around on here, which addresses the carbon build up in the VG 30. The factory's bulitin suggested 'wallnut' blating the intake runners, with the heads on the block ! I know a Nissan tech locally who is about to retire, but was just starting out when these trucks were introduced to the market. Their dealership service dept. was swampped with customers complaining of rough idle, stalling, and poor mileage rior to this 'fix' ! Just sayin...

I agree with B. It usually on a 'case by case' basis, and I'm sureit depends on the condition of the engine in the first place. There are all kinds of 'tune up in a can' in the market. I've used Techron and read considerable reading from time to time, as to whats in these products. The chemicals in most injector cleaners available over the counter, aren't really strong enough to disolve old, hard carbon deposits which is why BG recommends the use of the 'Intake cleaning system' before using 44k. Then regularly using 44K as a maintance program. Sea Foam on the other hand seem to accomplish SOME of the same results when used undiluted directly through the intake system. Them used in the fuel and 1/3 of a c an in the crankcase to disolve and remove sludge build up GRADUALLY. I have seen cases where people have added an entire quart of Kerosene, diesel fuel, Gunk engine flush etc...at an oil change! All it did was loosen up large deposits of sludge and BLOCK the oil passages, which as mentioned will result in some very unpleasant sounds from the engine bay! My results are real in terms of mileage and smoother running. I never expected a 0-60 gain or anything of that nature. Thats why theres 101 Octane Booster !!! LOL. Or acetone, and White gas.... Follow the instrutions and use your head, and maybe you'll see some mileage improvements. ; ).

To each there own. No one is MAKING you do it ! The amount of Sea Foam you add to the oil will hardly thin the oil. Maybe the person who had a bad experince can't read diections or use common sense !?

You just add it to the fuel before or after a fill up. (I've done both). You have to buy it through a distributor since BG doesn't sell to the 'big box' stores. If you go to there web site, you can locate a dealer/ distributor near you by zip code. They sell alot of products and I was first introduced to them back in the late 70's and early 80's with a product called 'extreme pressure concentrate' I used it in my Moto Cross bikes, in the transmissions. I rode the 125 class then and had to constantly slip the clutch to keep them in the power band. Regular oils would break down or foam from the high heat etc... I have had the entire intake system cleaned on a previous motor using the kit they sell online, how ever that motor died prematurely due to a broken timing belt, and numerous bent valves! I have used Sea Foam poured directly down the throttle body, brake booster line, and then run BG 44K through the fuel system via adding it to my fuel. I also will mix about 1/2 a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in with the fuel about every 3 months to aid with top end lubrication ( Most of the fuel available today contains ethanol and these engines weren't designed with that in mind, even though unleaded fuel is recommended. It's diluted enough to prevent fouling plugs, while still adding some lubricating qualities. You'll defineitly notice a difference from doing all this by how smooth the engine idles !

I was skeptical about using Sea Foam in my engine and intake system at first. However I have run it through the Brake booster hose, directly down the throat of the throttle body (TBI) and regularly in my fuel, with no negative results. It does work, and works well. I pulled the heads off a motor I used this in (due to a broken timing belt) and was amazed at how little carbon was on the piston domes and in, and around the valves and combustion chambers ! If you run it through the crank case, plan on changing the oil and filter within about 150 miles though, just to play it safe. Another product I was given to try, which really blew me away (better throttle response and much better mileage) is made by a company called BG Products. The fuel additive I used is called 44K. This stuff is kind of pricey at $45.00 a can, and I use it 3 times a year. My mileage went from an average of 10 - 12 mpg in town, to 18-20 mpg in town. 22-24 on the hi way Just my exexperience