krmiller07

Nice 'POP' gun ya got there James! Try putting a can of Seafoam in your gas and within a few miles you won't know it's running unless you look at the tach! Works that good : ) Keith

Just because a starter 'bench checks' ok, doesn't mean it will spin the motor. I went through 4 'new' rebuilt starters before getting one that would hold up under load. I'm wondering if you don't have an electrical short or a wire grounding out on something further up the line that's causing this? It's worth doing a full inspection from the solonoid backwards up as far as you can. Then, like someone mentioned. Check the terminal connections at the battery.

Sounds like a bad solonoid !

You can also apply some heat around the area that the stud is located. There may be thread locker (Loc-tite) that was applied to the stud before it was instaled. Sewbster is correct in gradually increasing the drill size until thers very little of the stud remaining. Wrap a peice of tape arond the the drill bit at the desired depth to use as a guage to prevent you from drilling too deep. Once a majority of the stud has been drilled out and removed. Take a small pick and strart picking out the remainng stud and threads. I have drilled them out to the point of actually having the remaining bolt or stud come out as a coil after fishing the threads out with the pick. Then make sure you clean the original threaded hole out with the appropriate sized tap. A hand held propane or mapp gas torch works pretty good for applying heat. Move the flame around in a circular motion on the OUTSIDE of the stud hole. The idea is to get the mtal around the stud to expand and release the thread locker. Go slow with drill speed and take your time using very sharp drill bits. Hope that helps. Keith

I've got $300.00 into them. So I'd take $300.00 + you pay shipping. Thanks

I have a set of 1987 Pathy heads, complete with cams. They were resurfaced and have about 1000 miles on them. After I had the heads replaced on the old motor that the reconditioned heads were on. I threw a rod and blasted the motor. So I replaced the complete motor with a different one.The were preassure checked and are in great running condition. Let me know if this helps or your interested. Thanks

Have you checked any of the other belts? Alternator or A/C powersteering belts etc... KM

Check you fuel filter too. the temp sensor is down behind the center a/c belt pulley. You may need a flashlight to see the terminal. just follow the wiring harness that goes across the top of the engine behind the timing belt cover. There is a thread on here about changing it without having to remove the timing belt cover. I changed mine this spring following those instructions, it was kind of a pain in the arsh, but with alot of patients and the right socket and extension I got it in with out cross threading it into the block or cylinder head. I cant remember what it threads into, but when the old one came out, the tip was broken off. If it threads into aluminum then I'd use some anti-seize on it.

I think it would be easy to mistake a TBI body with a carb. They look very similar with the exception that there are 2 injectors in the throat of the TBI. I too have never heard of or come across a 4 banger with a carb. Is there any reference to such a beast in the FSM or in a Haynes or Chilton manual?

Where are these guys and what was the 'turn around' time and cost ? Thanks,

Ok, this may not be related to this thread. BUT, I am wondering if any one has had any luck determining what the small screw at the base of the throttle body (rear drivers side) actually does? I saw a post somewhere else on the site and can't find it now. Has anyone adjusted this? It looks like an idle mixture adjustment screw. I've tried turning it in until it seats and then backed it out 1-1 1/2 turns. I have found nothing about this screw in either the FSM or in Chiltons or Haynes manuals. (Sorry NO Pics yet) I have an 89 Pathy SE with a 3.0l VG30i TBI. Please feel free to chime in with any input or comments. I'm hoping this may help with fuel mileage, but more than likely it won't? Thanks again, krmiller07

I've always used butter...NOT margerine !

I tried Mobil 1, however it was GL-5 and after about 10,000 miles my transmission started to shift rough going into 4th gear and sometimes shifting from 4th to 3rd. I switched over to Red Line ML 90 (synthetic) mostly because of how cold it gets in the winter where I live. (-30)degrees, and it shifts great now. Notchiness went away and shifts great both hot and cold. My truck is an 89 with 189,000 miles on it.

The mileage has doubled from 8 mpg to 16 mpg in 'city' driving. The A/C is still acting up though. Compessor cycles on and off every 30 seconds or so. Checked and added refridgerant with a set of gauges and an outdoor temp of about 65 dgrees. System was about a 1/2 lb low according to the gauges. Any more ideas? I've been going through the FSM James Rich sent me : ). Thanks James! Thinking about having the entire system evacuated and recharged? Thanks, KM

Thanks James, I actually took the truck to a mechanic yesterday, and he re-charged it. After finding it was about a 1/2 lb. low and discovering that the loose nut that did the convesion from R12 - R134a had left the (HI) side nipple loose. He recharged it. It's hard to say if it was a dramatic improvement, since the tempature up here went from 102 degrees on day to about 65 yesterday. Another discovery worth mentioning is. After several trips to and many questions to different (Techs) he discovered 2 LARGE vacuum leaks that were coming from the vacuum lines off of the EGR and off of what looks like a line to the Cruise Control.(Comes up out of the REAR of the manifold). He used a smoke machine typically used to trace out leaks for an A/C system. Once we hokked up to a vacuum line and blew smoke in the throttles body and intake manifold, smoke poured out of the leaking lines like a toy train ! Truck idles and runs smoother than it ever has, and I'm hoping the MPG improves as well. Now the best part...TOTAL COST was $55.00 including refridgerant! If this does the trick, than I'll have saved a pant load of $$$, not having to pull the intake manifold and replace the gaskets as previously diagnoised by EVERY tech I went too. I'll keep you posted on my mileage results.

Thanks guys, I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend !

Nunya, When you charged your system did you go coolant weight or preassure using a Hi/Lo gauge and vacum pump to evacuate the system ?

Nunya, When you charged your system did you go coolant weight or preassure using a Hi/Lo gauge and vacum pump to evacuate the system ?

I know the subject of air conditioning rarely come up on here. But are there any of you out there that have any A/C trouble shooting experince? Mine was converted over to R134a due to the misleading lack of availability of R 12. Now it doesn't seem to blow as cool as it used too. I checked it with one of those over the counter recharge kits (R 134a) and the gauge on the can reads 'alert'. Is it possible to overcharge the system? I thought I read some where that over charging can actually degrade the cooling properties of the system. (May have been the FSM). With the temp around here suddenly reaching 100 + it would be nice to not have to ride in a mobile sauna on the way to work. most of the shops around here are swamped and want an arm, a leg, various othe body parts and next months pay tp look at it. My guess is they'd come back with enough 'repalcement parts' ( due to the age of the truck) to scare the hell out of me, or to completely re do (outfit) the whole truck. Any suggestions or ideas before I cave in and go to a 'tech' Thanks

Sewebster, Have you tried adding the extra oil to the transmission as per the TSB ? I dded about an extra 2 pints if I remember correctly and it quieted down considerably. I was using Mobil 1 GL 5 I think, and switched to red Line Synthetic GL 4 as per the factory recommendations. Made a HUGE difference and saved me from pulling the tranny.

I agree. And then make sure the hydraulic 'damper' on the passenger side fire wall is not causing problems. They have a tendency to trap air in the system and not allow a good bleed. If you cant get a solid, firm pedal afetr bleeding the slave cylinder, and your sure the clutch M/C is good. You can bypass the damper with a appropriate sized union bolted into the solid hydraulic line coming down the passenger side fire wall.

Good info on the R134 vs 12 myth. I've always wondered about that. Especially since I smoked a compressor once after having it recharged with R134 on a car that was delivered from the factory with R12. Now the only problem is locating R 12 without having to buy it in bulk, so it's affordable.

Don't mention it, I do what I can ! LOL

Ain't...ain't a word either !