krmiller07

If your truck is an 87 through 89 with TBI, all you need to do is disconnect the fuel line feed coming out of the regulator into the TBI and put your regulator in there and turn the key on to the last position before the starter engages. You should get a reading of at least 36 psi. I think the factory spec is 36.5 psi. Leave the gauge hooked up and see if it bleeds down. Mine read 36.2 and stayed around 32-34 psi after about 20 mins. As far as I know, the only reading you can take is a "static" reading, unless your trying to find out the fuel preassure while it's running? I know what you mean about wtching the gauge drop rather "quickly" mine does that from the full mark until it gets down to around 1/4- 1/2 mark. I'd be extremely happy to get 17 mpg on the hi-way! I posted in "my garage" about a month ago with my symptoms. After digging further and on othe Pathy sites, I came across the threa and TSB about the premature carbon bvuild up problem. The factory engineer who was on the design team for the TBI system wrote the fix on "walnut" blasting the intake and valves to get rid of the fuel saturation problem from carbon build up, as well as poor milage and erratic fuel mixtures and rough idle issues. Have you checked your 'cat' if your still running one? Maybe it's plugged or plugging up? krmiller07

I'm curious. What kind of milage have you been getting. I recently discovered my rough running at cold start and erratic -idle problems were carbon build up in the intake, injectors and valves. I ran 2 bottles of Chevron Tech-ron through the tank, with about a 1/4 tank of fuel. Helped the start up problem and smoothed out the idle, however my milage is still really poor. I'm averaging around 10-12 mpg on the hiway! I was told everything from intake leaks to broken valve springs and all the obvious tune up related possibilites. It runs so smooth now, sometimes it's hard to tell if it's running. Now if I could get the milage up to a reasonable level I'd be a very happy camper! : ).BTW, where did you find the thread on the intake ground leads? And where on the intake are they located?

Under the black plastic cover...is a 12mm nut. Remove the nut and pull the entire arm up with your HAND !

I am interested in these "Euro-spec" cams. Can anyone tell me where, or who I can contact? $50.00 seems pretty reasonable if there new cams. Or are these ground for the 300 ZX Normally aspirated? Thanks, krmiller07

It's probably the crankshaft beating it, I know when I replaced the engine on my pathy last year, the motor that was going in was out of a two wheel drive and the oil pans are alot different due to the 4 wheel drive. The pans are alot deeper on the 4x4. Or at least they're stamped to hold most of the oil behind the cross member . Dip sticks may be different lenghths as well.

I live in Minneapolis, MN. XS racing is partly correct. Cross drilling and slotting did originate in Motorsports, however the amount of material removed has NO impact on mass. The biggest factor is pad selection. I have not AND do not recommend cross drilling due to the fact that even rotors that are factory drill in the manufacturing process, will eventually, under extreme use, cause heat cracking, starting around the holes. Cross drilling evolved as an attempt to channel WATER off of the disc surface during wet weather use. Which it does pretty well! Then the heat takes over. It does provide a minimum amount of heat reduction, but not enough to warrant the high likely hoood of cracking. Slotting (again if it's needed) will also reduce over heating. I've proven that by using an infa-red pryometer to check brake tempatures, and most rotors and pads will see about a 100 degree reduction in rotor and pad temps. Obviously concentrating more air flow through or over these components also helps significantly. Our tests did not usr Brake Ducting to reduce the temps. We have, after 14 years of treating, slotting, dimppling, and cross drilling have NEVER seen one of our rotors crack do to slotting. On the othe hand cross drilled rotors will fill up with brake pad material after a period of extreme use, as will dimpling. Therefore we recommend and offer ONLY slotting witha 5x3 pattern. 5 rows of 3 slots that DO NOT extend to the inner or outer edges of the rotors.

Your welcome. I noticed you are located in the Bay Area. What part? I used to live in Monterey and when I'd take trips up to Tahoe or into Northern CA, My brakes were always getting a work out. I owned a 300ZX and a New Pathfinder, they were always just short of burning up even when I used as much engine braking as much as possible. Those are areas you don't want to find your self without binders!

Slotting is an option...not a requirement. I'm sure the cryo treating attributed to the longer life. We've found slotting does not INCREASE pad wear. It all depends on how the slotting is machined into the rotors, and how deep and long the slots are. Slotting all the way across the friction surface of the rotor (From the very inside, to the very outer edge) will undoubtably increase wear, and may even cause chunking of the pads.

Hi there, I happen to work for a company in Minnesota that cryogenically treats rotors. My link. I can help you make a selection with your Pathy. I have personally jusy installed a set of Hawk "LTS" pads on my pathy and love them. They are specifically designed for Light Trucks and SUV's. Hence the name LTS. Those pads combined with either the slotted or non-slotted Frozen rotors, have been very popular with the Nissan Titan owners, as they suffer from extreme premature pad and rotor wear and failure. I also carry the DBA-4000 series rotors and from what I have witnessed they are a very high quality product. It all comes down to you needs and budget. The frozen or cryogenically treated rotors will, in most cases double your rotor life. I have personally recieved customer claims of 160-180,000 miles out of our rotors on 1 ton construction trucks. At the very LEAST you can expect to double the normal life of Non-Treated rotors. We do the 60 hour cryo treatment over the weekends and the finished product is available for shipping on Mondays ( We've been doing this for 14 years).We also treat complete engines and drive train components (gears,axles, ring and pinions etc.) If you call us at 1-888-323-8456 ask for Mark or Bill.Or you can email me direct at km@frozenrotors.com. I'm in the office Tuesdays - Thursdays 8:00 am-5:30 pm CST. They can give you a detailed quote. Make sure to mentioned you coresponded with me. You'll qualify for a 10% dicount on 1 axle set of pads and rotors. And 15% discount on 2 axles sets of pads and rotors. 1 axle set= both fronts, 2 axle sets= front and rears. We'll honor and offer this discount to all members of this forum if you mention this site and mention my name only You can also check out what our customer have said about our products and services on wwww.titantalk.com Hope this helps, Keith

Has anyone experinced a cold start misfire or "rich" running condition until the water temp rises? I have an 89 Pathy VG-30I TBI. And upon cold start it immediately goes to fast idle, however it also misses a little and runs like a carborated engine with the choke not opening all the way. Aslo wondering if the engine will run this way when the cam timing is off a tooth or more. I had the T-belt replaced about a year ago (5k miles) and a recent mechanic said the cam timing could be off a tooth? He also claims theres no change in idle when he pulls the #1 and, or #3 plug wires off? This is driving me crazy! I've done a complete tune up. Filters, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, O2 sensor and water temp sensor. No codes, and runs fine when it's warm or at operating temp. Makes normal power, but gets horrible mileage. One shop told me it's a intake gasket leak, one shop said I've got fluctuating comperession in one cylinder ( Not confirmed ) I pulled the plugs and the passenger side plugs were a little wet, and one was wet and carbon fouled. I had poured a couple of bottles of Techron in a 1/4 tank of gas in an attempt to clean the injectors and burn out any carbon deposits on the valves. I've read about every posting I can find on here and the other Pathy forums and still can't figure it out. Any ideas out there guys? Thanks,

I'm going to attempt this tomorrow, I replaced my rear rotors and pads today and the rear passenger side was soked in either gear oil or bearing grease. I couldnt tell which. I am wondering if theres any reason to have to open up the diff? Are there any retaining clips on the inner end of the axle in the ring and pinion end that would keep the axle from sliding out? I've never dug into the rear axle on one of these, and just making sure i'm not in for any suprises. While I have it all apart, I'm also going to replace the parking brake shoes. When I had it apart earlier, I noticed a cut out in the outboard end of the axles to get the retaing hat off so the shoes come free. There doesn't look like theres alot of room to work in there with the axles in place. Do the axles have to come out to replace the parking brake shoes ? If you've done these, could you throw me some insight and tips on getting the old ones out, and the new ones in ? Thanks, you've provided alot of insight so far. km@frozenrotors.com

Did you have to take the circut board out of the black box to find the reset button ? Or was it on the top or bottom of the black box ?

Ok ! I found the 'black box' under the carpet, under the drivers seat ! Thanks for the heads up on that. Now my next question/ problem is...how do you reset the code for a new or different key fob ? I took the 4 mounting screws off and flipped the box over, looking for a "re-set" button, and found nothing. I also took the bottom cover off, and found no buttons, switchs etc. The only things I did find were a "sensativity" screw behind a small rubber button. I'm thinking this must be used to adjust the senseativity of the motion sensor? I also saw a small LED light about 3" to the left of the rubber button. This is CLEARLY marked "NISSAN" on the black plastic box, so I have no reservations on the manufacturer of the alarm system. There was NO label hiding a 7/8" hole with a re-set button on this box. Does anyone know how you program a new or different fob to this type of alarm system ? The only othe markings were on a label attached to the box, N VSS #083788, which I assume means Nissan Vehicle Security System.

Actually, that is FAR from a dumb answer ! I did and thought the same thing. Should be out in the open and obvious...but it's not. I would think since these were supposedly dealer installed options, a tech would take the easy way out and mount it under the seat where it's fast and easy.I guess it would make sense to hide it under the carpet where it can't be tampered with. When I pull my seat out, I'll feel around and pull up the carpet. Maybe it is hidden in there some where. I'll post and let everyone who's replyed know. : ) Thanks again, krmiller07

Thanks, I tried them. They don't sell the Fobs for Pathys anymore. The only models they carry are for 280 & 300 ZX's. I cant locate the control box, I traced the wire from the button for the hood swith back to the fuse panel, but that's where it all ends. There is an arming swith (toggle) mounted in the center console next to the E-brake. That switch is powered and will arm the alarm. I can get the alarm to go off and it sounds like it was wired or tied into the horn to alert you. Any ideas where the control box could be mounted, if not under the drivers or passenger seats ? If I can locate the box, I think I can find a FOB, and reset the box to 'learn' the new fob. Based on what is written in the TSB above, there should be a reset button on the control box ? Open to all ideas !

I am trying to locate a factory Key FOB for my 1989 Pathfinder. I am also trying to determine if I have the "Factory" dealer installed VSS. I called the local dealer here in the Minnetonka, MN area and they had no idea, and all the techs on staff aren't old enough to have worked on a 89 !. Based on the TSB posted here, it appears I may have the same system, however I cant locate the small box that's suppose to be under the drivers seat. I have a switch on the console, and the alarm works when armed, and if you bump into the vehicle it goes off. So, all that being said. I think the correct part # is 999U7-6D001.A call to Carolina Nissan in NC educated me in the fact that these were "dealer installed" options and accessories. Just like the air conditioners were ! I bought one of these trucks new in 1988 and when I got home from the dealer, I pushed the button on the dash for some A/C and nothing ! A look under the hood confirmed NO compressor ! lol. Anyways all feedback and or help would be appreciated, and if someone out there has or nows where I can locate and purchase the key fob, please post it on here. Thanks, krmiller07

Hey, Great post! I am trying to locate a factory Key FOB for my 1989 Pathfinder. I am also trying to determine if I have the "Factory" dealerinstalled VSS. I called the local dealer here in the Minnetonka and they had no idea, and all the techs on staff aren't old enough to have worked on a 89 !. Based on the TSB posted here, it appears I may have thed same system, however I cant locate the small box that's suppose to be under the drivers seat. I have a switch on the console, and the alarm works when armed, and if you bump into the vehicle it goes off. So, all that being said. I am wondering if you still have the key FOB and what the part # is ? I think the correct part # is 999U7-6D001. If you do have it, how much would you be willing to sell it for ? Thanks in advance, krmiller07

Thanks, I have a Haynes Manual. And I cant find anything related to this problem. The link you posted is non-functional. My truck fast idles. It just runs really rich and starts to misfire while doing so. After it warms up to operating temp it's not as bad, but at idle it still sounds and feels like it has a miss.

Hi My1Path, I do have a heat riser pipe coming up off of the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner snorkel. The valve on the snorkel is working as it should, and I've already set the timing @ 15*. How long should the ECU set diconnected ? I've heard several "arguments" or opinions about this ? This engine has about 45k miles on it, and is all stock. Except for a K&N air cleaner and no Cat.

I have an 89 Pathfinder SE-6 cyl. Manual Trans. that when cold, starts and immediatly goes into fast idle ( about 1300 rpm ) however it starts running so rich, that it runs like a carbed vehicle with a stuck choke. It idles rough, and shakes until the tempature comes up to the bottom of the gauge. Then as the temp continues to rise, idle settles down to normal and runs just fine. My questions are this. Has anyone experinced this ? And what could be the possible causes? I've done a thourough tune up. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Replaced all the vacum lines, checked for vacum leaks ( because that what it acts like ).However about 4 monthes ago, I replaced the O2 sensor and unhooked the battery while doing so. When I re-connected the battery and started the engine, this symptom starts. A few people have replyed in regards to resetting the ECU, and some have said that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will reset the ECU. And others have said that cycling the starter or starting the engine at least 50 times, will do the same thing? This rough idle and rich condition have been driving me nuts and I'm unable to read the codes from the ECU since I don't have access to a FSM. Any ideas !? Thanks, krmiller07 krmiller70@hotmail.com km@frozenrotors.com

I have an 89 Pathfinder SE-6 cyl. Manual Trans. that when cold, starts and immediatly goes into fast idle ( about 1300 rpm ) however it starts running so rich, that it runs like a carbed vehicle with a stuck choke. It idles rough, and shakes until the tempature comes up to the bottom of the gauge. Then as the temp continues to rise, idle settles down to normal and runs just fine. My questions are this. Has anyone experinced this ? And what could be the possible causes? I've done a thourough tune up. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Replaced all the vacum lines, checked for vacum leaks ( because that what it acts like ).However about 4 monthes ago, I replaced the O2 sensor and unhooked the battery while doing so. When I re-connected the battery and started the engine, this symptom starts. A few people have replyed in regards to resetting the ECU, and some have said that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will reset the ECU. And others have said that cycling the starter or starting the engine at least 50 times, will do the same thing? This rough idle and rich condition have been driving me nuts and I'm unable to read the codes from the ECU since I don't have access to a FSM. Any ideas !? Thanks, krmiller07 krmiller70@hotmail.com km@frozenrotors.com

I have an 89 Pathfinder SE-6 cyl. Manual Trans. that when cold, starts and immediatly goes into fast idle ( about 1300 rpm ) however it starts running so rich, that it runs like a carbed vehicle with a stuck choke. It idles rough, and shakes until the tempature comes up to the bottom of the gauge. Then as the temp continues to rise, idle settles down to normal and runs just fine. My questions are this. Has anyone experinced this ? And what could be the possible causes? I've done a thourough tune up. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Replaced all the vacum lines, checked for vacum leaks ( because that what it acts like ).However about 4 monthes ago, I replaced the O2 sensor and unhooked the battery while doing so. When I re-connected the battery and started the engine, this symptom starts. A few people have replyed in regards to resetting the ECU, and some have said that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will reset the ECU. And others have said that cycling the starter or starting the engine at least 50 times, will do the same thing? This rough idle and rich condition have been driving me nuts and I'm unable to read the codes from the ECU since I don't have access to a FSM. Any ideas !? Thanks, krmiller07 krmiller70@hotmail.com km@frozenrotors.com

Are there two bolts or nuts that have to be loosened through the holes in the pump pulley ? I loosend the one in the upper right side ( facing the front of the truck ) If i understand you correctly, there is another bolt or nut on the bottom of the bracket, that the tensioner bolt ( which is accessable through the wheel well )runs through.?