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Idiot! I dono who but GRRR!


MY1PATH
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so I been suffering poor mileage on my 94...

I checked all the vacum lines and found the upstream EGR line disconnected. Plugged that in and things didn't get any better.

My coolant wasn't getting above 150f so I drained a gallon and added some fresh 100% (too much water can make you run cold)

then I checked my timing.....

 

10degrees BTDC and the dizy is maxed out! so one of 2 things is can be;

cam off by a tooth or dizy off by a tooth. (please not the cam)

Now the dizy ajustemets are 7 degrees from overlaping between teeth so I feared the worst (moving one tooth would max me the other way at 17) but I checked anyway.

 

Under the cap there is evednce of a very bad mechainc. the CAS cover is distorted and covered with tool marks and the rotor can be moved!!! CRAP!

So it looks like someone took a visegrip and spun the rotor when they couldn't get it off and it jacked up everything under the cap. THe screw that holds the rotor on was stripped, the keyway for the trigerwheel was compelely rounded and so was the alignment tab underneath it. GRRR! Fortunately the CAS and everything below it was still ok and I had spares to get it runing at 15 degees again but I still need to replace the top pice thats stripped. It doesn't show any signs of corosion so I know it wasn't rusted on when this happened someone was just an Idiot!!! I dono who but GRRR!!!

 

Thanks for reading my rant, I'll have an update on mpg and driveablilty in the next few days. Hopefully now it will get better mpg than my Lifted, big tires & TBI 89

Now its also a wonder how I passed emissons so well with the engine 20f too cold, one egr vacum line disconnected and 10deg timing. Like it wasn't a barely pass, it was blow the test outata the water pass.

Edited by MY1PATH
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I thought you did all your own work? This is a good reason to do all your own work.

James

the 94 is a recently purchased vehicle. so he was trying to do all his own work, but a prior mechanic made a couple speed bumps...

That's exactly what happend. There's a handfull of things that happend before I bought the 94 that I need to correct and prolly a few nasty surpiresed waiting for me too.(like above lol)

My next one will be fixing the Cruise contol and the A/C backlighting since (acording to the PO) both stopped working after the stereo was installed.

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the A/c works. Its the backlighting for the a/c. and I wish it were just a blub but the word 'A/C' on the swich is on the same dimmer circut and also does not work. I think they tapped into the dimmer circut when they did the stereo and did not leave the A/c lighting in tact. and likely cut the power for cruise and routed it to the stereo as well. one day I'll open it up and see...

OK,

both bulbs were out. Got the one for the panel replaced but I still need to replace the tiny micro bulb that lights the "A/C" letters. I tried had 5 JY micro bulbs and they all tested bad. Funny, My 89 had an led on cricut board inside the swich instead of a micro bulb. The swiches interchange so I wonder why they changed the internal design on the newer one...

Edited by MY1PATH
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  • 5 weeks later...

That's exactly what happend. There's a handfull of things that happend before I bought the 94 that I need to correct and prolly a few nasty surpiresed waiting for me too.(like above lol)

My next one will be fixing the Cruise contol and the A/C backlighting since (acording to the PO) both stopped working after the stereo was installed.

check the vacuum line at the back of the servo they like to split

I have a extra a/c switch laying around if you really need one

We have a pick a part that usually has a decent supply of pathys

Edited by vagabond
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It was the bulb inside the switch, and I got one thankyou. Actually finding one out of another pathy was easier than finding one of those micro bulbs.

Still haven't got arround to the cruise but the vaccum line is fresh.

speaking of vaccum lines the upstream egr hose was unplugged and when I plugged it in the MPG's took a dive. Took the EGR valve off and I can blow thru it. So ecu can't properly ajust when the valve opens because its always leaking in the first place. I'm gonna block it off for now(help my engine warm up faster and keep the manifold cleaner). I just blew the smog test outa the water and no wonder when it was idleing with egr leaking so getting a new egr valve is low priority...

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

AND ONCE MORE, GRRR! LOL

so went thru a puddle and heard a squeal. "Oh, loose belt I'll have to check that" I said

so the alty belt was loose and I grab a 12mm and get to the tensioner. WTF!?!? completely backed off and seized!!!

The alty belt must have been tightened with a prybar and then locked in place with the tensioner bolt.

 

so I take the tensioner off as the bolt is pretty siezed hit it with a torch till it losens up brush off the rust and carbon scales grease it up and it works fine now.

Few min with a torch and few more with a wire brush. now really who couldn't do that?

Or why not replace it if they don't have a torch?

kinda silly

Edited by MY1PATH
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Well, I had massive zip ties holding the tension on the alternator for a long time until I actually got around to getting another tensioner bracket. lol.gif

 

 

yes, but you did that and you were ok with it right.

 

The PO had her work done by "professional mechanics" for the last 15 years (big pile of recipts to proove it) Its one thing to do something getto in your home garage its another thing when you let $#!t like screwed up dizzy's and pry-bar alternator belts leave your shop thinking your coustomer will none the wiser...

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