Tungsten Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 My A/C doesn't work and its an R12 system. I want to make it work but there are so many road blocks in the way. For example I tried to buy some R12 refrigerant and was told that it is no longer made. Great! Now I have to use the crappy R134a and retrofit it. I tried to get an original receiver drier can from the dealership but that part has been deleted from the catalog. Now I don't know if the R134a canister will fit into the R12 system. Does anyone know if the R134a canister has the same fitting as the R12 canister? That would be nice because the R134a can has the DX7 desiccant that I need for the R134a retrofit. The last thing is the difference between the two fittings at the condenser on the high pressure line. Mine is leaking so I tried to put an R134a line there and it did not fit properly. So I had to grab another R12 one in a junkyard and noticed that the o-rings looked slightly different. The R12 one was kind of like a hollow cone as opposed to the R134a one which looked like a regular o-ring. Now I want to find out if the R12 line has a special o-ring or if it just becomes that way from being forced against the condenser fitting which also looks like a cone. If anyone has info on that it would be good too. I know that I'm going to have to get the "green" o-rings now for whatever components I'm replacing so that the R134a doesn't leak out. Thats why I have to know if a replacement "green" o-ring exists for that R12 high pressure hose. HELP!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 All you need for 134a is the retro-fit fitting for the lowside of the a/c system. All that "change everything" bs they tried to shove down everyones throat 10 years ago (or whenever the change started) is just that... Bull stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 I got mad at my A/C system and ripped it out of my truck... >_> well the compressor and line's anyway xD I still use the condenser as a rock-guard for my radiator now I have a little more power, slightly better mileage, and there's more space to work under the hood now if you really like your A/C though, Nunya's right. All you need is a retrofit kit and it's pretty simple to install. you can probably pick one up at your local autozone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 No my A/C system has been empty for some time now. A retrofit kit would not be enough since there is nothing to create a vacuum in the kit. There is a reason why you have to hook up your A/C system to a special machine to recharge the system. If you have a leak in the system then the drier goes bad. If I start with a new drier, the A/C will be much colder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 (edited) HF sells vacuum pumps and a r134 gauge set. See if you can find a local shop that specialized in A/C. Everyone is on a tight budget these days (I sure am), but going to a professional might not cost as much as you think. They will know how to purge the old system and convert it to R134a properly. R12 is still available, its just very expensive. R12 is still made in mexico, and is super easy to find there. Alternatively, get in touch with Alkorahil, so you can at least show up to the AC shop with all new parts giving you the best shot at getting the system up and running. I'm glad my AC still works. Good luck. Let us know how it goes. Edited June 30, 2010 by RJSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 what i want to know right now is if the fittings on the r12 drier are different from the r134a drier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 No my A/C system has been empty for some time now. A retrofit kit would not be enough since there is nothing to create a vacuum in the kit. There is a reason why you have to hook up your A/C system to a special machine to recharge the system. If you have a leak in the system then the drier goes bad. If I start with a new drier, the A/C will be much colder. My hi side hose blew last summer, and I didn't replace it until 2 weeks ago so the system had been basically open almost a year. I didn't have a vacuum pump so I just started a can of 134 on the low side and purged from the hi side the a/c will freeze you out if you don't turn it down. Like some of the others have said all the change over hooey was just a way to make an easy buck, I think there is a difference in the oil so you might want to change that. By the way I specialized in a/c and electrical for over 25 years with ford and Datsun/Nissan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 about a decade ago my a/c pump blew up. It sent shrapenel down al the lines, everything had to be replaced. All the new parts were OEM I think exept the 2 lines going in and out of the new oem compressor have 134a fittings on them now because I just checked my dodge(134a) and they look the same, the caps even interchange. I think I vaugely remeber dad saying it was converted after it blew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 1, 2010 Author Share Posted July 1, 2010 (edited) My hi side hose blew last summer, and I didn't replace it until 2 weeks ago so the system had been basically open almost a year. I didn't have a vacuum pump so I just started a can of 134 on the low side and purged from the hi side the a/c will freeze you out if you don't turn it down. Like some of the others have said all the change over hooey was just a way to make an easy buck, I think there is a difference in the oil so you might want to change that. By the way I specialized in a/c and electrical for over 25 years with ford and Datsun/Nissan How did you purge from the high side? I just wanted to know if the drier canisters interchange so that I may be able to use a R134a canister. I know it is possible to get away with an R12 one but it is better to use the R134a one when using R134a refrigerant unless anyone from Mexico is willing to ship me some R12. Edited July 1, 2010 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 (edited) How did you purge from the high side? I just wanted to know if the drier canisters interchange so that I may be able to use a R134a canister. I know it is possible to get away with an R12 one but it is better to use the R134a one when using R134a refrigerant unless anyone from Mexico is willing to ship me some R12. The new style R-134 refrigerant can be used in R-12 systems as long as the oil is included with the installation of the new refrigerant. No new seals or any other components should need to be replaced. Your truck’s system should be completely empty of the old R-12, which is supposed to be contained and removed by a certified refrigerant technician. (that's what their big fancy machine is for). You will need a kit composed of an adaptor for the new R134a refrigerant and the hose used to fill the system with. It is always a good idea to have a gauge present to test the pressures with, as you install the R-134 refrigerant. First find out how much refrigerant your system is meant to hold. Once you know this number, you can buy as many cans of refrigerant as you will need to fill the system. The cans are normally 12 oz. which means you will probably need three and one can of oil. If you forget to buy a full size can of oil your compressor will become damaged. Edited July 1, 2010 by Manifesto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 If anything, I would just purchase new orings for the hoses and pipes, then have someone evac and recharge. There is R12 available. It's hard to find. It's called "freeze12" and it's about $45 a can. When I worked at the dealer I sold 6 cans to one guy because he knew the supply and demand ration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 How did you purge from the high side? I just wanted to know if the drier canisters interchange so that I may be able to use a R134a canister. I know it is possible to get away with an R12 one but it is better to use the R134a one when using R134a refrigerant unless anyone from Mexico is willing to ship me some R12. Just pressed in on the shrader valve on hi side port while dumping a partial can in on the low side, engine not running. I got out of the business in 93 so I can't be of any help in the difference of the receiver dryers, I know it took me 2 trips to pick a part auto salvage before I found the right high pressure hose, there wasn't very much difference on the fitting where it mounts to the condenser but just enough that it didn't want to attach properly anyway goodluck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 The 134 drier should drop right in. Then get the retro fittings and pull a vac on the system. Let it sit and see if the microns drop. If it holds, your golden. Pull it down as low as it will allow, and then charge it up...You may want to use a "First Charge" which has some oil, and conditioners in it as your first can. Truth be known, 134A will drop right on TOP of R12. The EPA is a bunch of idiots working for Bill Cosby and Al Gore. I have been doing A/C work for years, and its all the same...(except for 410A, that stuff sucks.) If you lived closer I would do it for you. I have all the gear, and do most of the patrol cars on my shift. Autozone rents the pump and gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 2, 2010 Author Share Posted July 2, 2010 Thanks tmoore4512 and the rest! I will be getting the R134a drier then. Does anyone have any info on that particular O-Ring on the early high pressure hose fittings at the condenser? It does look like a special one and I have not heard anything from the dealer. They still haven't got the O-Ring so nobody can tell me anything about the diameter or type of it. I heard if you take stuff apart and mess with the O-Rings its better to use the "green" ones to replace the "black" ones. Yes, the EPA sucks, and as for Al Gore, he has a new inconvenient truth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Yea, the green O rings are better suited for longer life. Auto Zone sells a multi pack of the rings you will need. Shouldn't be a problem to locate one that will fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 When I did my motor swap, I didn't bother putting my AC back in. Twas a simple fix and I now sport a headache free AC system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 FYI, you can do an engine swap without dismantling the A/C system. Any specific info on the high side o-ring on the condenser fitting for the R12 system would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 when I had the AC repaired in my sentra it was converted, all the guy did was put the adapters on the high and low side fittings, replace the drier,compressor and expansion valve, pulled a vacuum on the system, no leaks and charged it, oh added the proper amount of oil in the new compressor, my sentra cools into the 30's no problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 I got information on the O-ring; it is a regular O-ring that gets crushed into a cone when the fitting is put into the condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 Can anyone please assist and tell me where the drain pipe is exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 (edited) Oh crap can this get any worse? I got the green o-ring assortment from Advance Auto Parts and it had every kind except the ones I needed which are the thick ones that look like the OEM black ones. So I got those from my mechanic and put them in along with the new high pressure hose. Get the system recharged and it runs cold for a few seconds before turning extremely hot and I got a hissing sound from under the dashboard which probably means that the evaporator is screwed. Great, more parts to buy! So to get the evaporator out, do I just take the glove box out? Edited July 27, 2010 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 take the glove box out, the metal plate behind it, you will have to take the 2 hoses apart at the fittings under the hood near the firewall, unplug the fan resistor under the dash, remove about 6 screws and than the whole evaporator box should come out. Have you replaced the expansion valve at all?? If the entire system is good but the expansion valve is bad or clogged the freon will just circulate, with out the expansion valve to control it the AC will not get cold, also when you remove the evaporator good time to take it out of the plastic box and clean it really good. Would also replace the accumulator/drier if you haven't already Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Orifice tube!!! (may have trash in it) Then pull a vac on the system. I mean seriously pull a vacuum, 12-14 microns. Let it sit. Check if it moves... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 our trucks don't have an orifice tube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 take the glove box out, the metal plate behind it, you will have to take the 2 hoses apart at the fittings under the hood near the firewall, unplug the fan resistor under the dash, remove about 6 screws and than the whole evaporator box should come out. Have you replaced the expansion valve at all?? If the entire system is good but the expansion valve is bad or clogged the freon will just circulate, with out the expansion valve to control it the AC will not get cold, also when you remove the evaporator good time to take it out of the plastic box and clean it really good. Would also replace the accumulator/drier if you haven't already Yes there is a crapload of stuff inside the box, it needs cleaning badly. I have a new accumulator/drier but the problem is that I have some wire going to the old one and I don't know where it would go on the new one. Also the old one has a sight glass which I really like. As for the expansion valve, I am sure that is in good condition as I had the system vacuumed a few times when trying to find the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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