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Stubby Pathy


sumguy67
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I started pulling the interior panels, and taking some measurements on my 88 today :sly:

 

Funny you say that, because I pulled the fenders off of mine yesterday and bought some supplies (cutting & welding) today.

How do I get myself into these things???? HA!

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When yo udo open it, does that mean you hav eto become a complete tool and after arguing for a littl ebit with everyone never come around again? Ain't that the normal for those that have done the chop?

Nah, my 93 will stay unmolested. I bought the 88 to have fun with, so I'm going to.

 

 

Besides, I don't wear woman's underwear.

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Yeah it is! I don't like 4-doors but that does look pretty swet. Kind of Humv-ish.

 

Imagine it black and lifted with 35s... *drools*

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Take pictures and notes, please...

 

B

 

Yep! I'm taking pictures and will be noting the stuff I do.

I'll Link the page here to share.

 

After striping it down I was going back and forth:

 

OPTION A - rear chop and bring the entire rear ahead 19".

This would make the back of the truck body even with the back of the stock tires.

It would eliminate the need to do significant frame repair but involves moving/modifying the fuel tank.

It also involves raising the tail lights.

Although it would involve significant welding, 90% of the cutting looked very straight forward for this.

 

OPTION B - rear chop and remove the rear pillar and roof section for truck bed.

Obviously this is a simpler change. I will still be removing all of the harness to re-mount in the cab.

Involves frame repair (not looking forward to this).

Will not give the tire exposure I wanted so to gain more clearance and angle of attack for the rear I will raise the tow bar and chop the lower rear fenders.

Since this will expose the fuel tank a bit, I am considering a heavier tank guard or additional skid plate. May just reinforce the existing one???

 

I slept on it last night and decided that I wanted an off road Pathy but I wanted some function too.

Having an open rear bed, outside of the closed passenger area, seems to be the prime motivator now.

I'm constantly carrying fuel cans, chainsaws, tools, etc. Things you don't want in the passenger area.

Fumes and smells and messes on the inside with the people doesn't make sense.

Besides, having stuff inside during a crash or a rollover is scary.

All that stuff flying forward and bouncing around with you in an enclosed cabin... YIKES!

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I slept on it last night and decided that I wanted an off road Pathy but I wanted some function too.

Having an open rear bed, outside of the closed passenger area, seems to be the prime motivator now.

I'm constantly carrying fuel cans, chainsaws, tools, etc. Things you don't want in the passenger area.

Fumes and smells and messes on the inside with the people doesn't make sense.

Besides, having stuff inside during a crash or a rollover is scary.

All that stuff flying forward and bouncing around with you in an enclosed cabin... YIKES!

 

 

You supposed to tie that stuff down to begin with man!

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You supposed to tie that stuff down to begin with man!

 

Ah yes, but this is a work of art!!! HA!

The truck is all marked up for both the 19" chop AND the truck bed chop.

Until I put the cutter to the sheet metal it is still up in the air.

 

For example, after last night when I dropped the rear frame I was considering going back to the 19" chop because I wouldn't have to put in the new rear frame.

But I can't be lazy about it! The goal is now set. Here is a pic of where I want to get to:

rear%20bed%20chop-yellow%20copy.jpg

 

I will be adding front bumper, rear tire carrier, roof rack and an external rad carrier (somewhere).

But this is the base idea.

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btw, if you add a rear bumper you can shave the rear tail lights

 

 

put in oval LED's in the new bumper= legal

 

HOWEVER

I think you should do something like this

 

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=XJRUPGRD97&Category_Code=XJArmor

 

 

 

personally, the effort it would take to do that kind of renovation, I'd rather keep it stock and SAS the front/rear and stretch it 6"

 

 

PS, you will probably need to add atleast a small interior cage to protect against the cab crushing down, considering you stole a pillar..

Edited by OldSlowReliable
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btw, if you add a rear bumper you can shave the rear tail lights

 

 

put in oval LED's in the new bumper= legal

 

HOWEVER

I think you should do something like this

 

http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=XJRUPGRD97&Category_Code=XJArmor

 

 

 

personally, the effort it would take to do that kind of renovation, I'd rather keep it stock and SAS the front/rear and stretch it 6"

 

 

PS, you will probably need to add atleast a small interior cage to protect against the cab crushing down, considering you stole a pillar..

 

Those lights look cool.... very off-road-ish.

 

I agree with the interior cage idea. The structure of the rear pillar is quite significant and I hope to reinforce the new pillar (behind the rear passengers) quite a bit.

Perhaps a 2 1/2" stainless roll bar. The cut rear area will be reinforced as well to support the tire carrier.

 

The amount of effort isn't that bad. I started it Friday and plan to have all of the changes done by next Friday. Then I can move on to the body/paint work.

That is unless I get an itch to chop the front....

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Yeah, I plan to put an interior cage in mine after the chop-top, not from the removal of structure, but for the fact I think I will be more "playfull" with the truck afterward.

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Don't rush it man... That's when you f-up and do things half fast and don't like the results. Definatly reinforce that backhalf since our takin all the structure of the body back there...

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Yeah, I plan to put an interior cage in mine after the chop-top, not from the removal of structure, but for the fact I think I will be more "playfull" with the truck afterward.

 

 

I totally agree... almost want to see if the cage works! HA!

I want to put a heavy duty roof rack on mine and I'm thinking of building it right through the roof to the frame to act as a roll cage.

Not so much interior intrusion that way.

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Don't rush it man... That's when you f-up and do things half fast and don't like the results. Definatly reinforce that backhalf since our takin all the structure of the body back there...

 

I agree about rushing things..... but a week is lots of time. :D

My background is in automotive structural design, some in truck frames like the H3 Hummer, some in suspensions and some in heavy off-road suspension and driveline.... the list goes on.

After almost 20 years I guess I could say I've done a little bit of this before. :)

 

The nice part is that I get to do the fabrication myself.

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I think I will be replacing the rockers with something more substantial as well.

I have some heavy 2 1/2" stainless tubing I've scrounged for roll bars and exhaust, I think I will use some of that.....

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I think I will be replacing the rockers with something more substantial as well.

I have some heavy 2 1/2" stainless tubing I've scrounged for roll bars and exhaust, I think I will use some of that.....

 

Is it a high iron stainless? How do you plan to attach it? Some grades will weld to mild steel, some won't.

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Is it a high iron stainless? How do you plan to attach it? Some grades will weld to mild steel, some won't.

 

Attaching is an issue. Welding is a possibility, but I am using a stick welder and it's tough enough on body metal.

I am considering screwing it as well as using a body glue of some kind.

Not sure how good it will look but it sure will certainly deflect the crap I tend to bounce off of.

Edited by sumguy67
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