Jump to content

3 Hour Oil Change From Hell !


ahardb0dy
 Share

Recommended Posts

never in my driving life have I gone thru what I just did, everything started out just fine, I removed the throttle body and cleaned it real good, re-installed it, checked the MAF sensor, replaced the PCV valve ( so happy they put it right on top so easy to do!!), replaced the fuel filter, slight bitch of a job but getting those hoses off always are, drained the oil, and let the fun begin now!!! went to remove the oil filter and IT DID NOT WANT TO BE REMOVED!!!!! I had to have spent almost an hour trying to get that filter off, had to put that rubber tape ( the kind that looks like electrical tape) on the inside of my oil filter wrench and than use the handle from my floor jack just to get the filter to start to turn loose !!! of course in the process I knocked/pulled 2 wires loose from I don't know where!!!, one turned out to go to the starter, found that out when the truck wouldn't crank at all, the other was for the oil pressure sender, finally got those 2 wires back connected, all in all took me over 3.5 hours to do what I just said. I'm worn out now!!, Plugs will be done tomorrow as well as re-installing the drivers side door lock cylinder that I dropped off at the locksmith to have a key made for it. ok time to de-grease my self will be back on in a while.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I suggest you punch through the oil filter with a screwdriver and use that is leverage to turn that's after you cover the starter before it gets hosed with oil Remember, the oil filter is not put on snug. I fill my oil filter up slightly to prevent a dry start. For plugs, I recommend good ol NGKs. Don't forget the the cap and rotor. Plug wires, I'd stick with stock or NGKs. Bosch's as junk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought the regular NGK's only plug I would consider using, will check the condition of the cap and rotor tomorrow, took it for a test drive this JDM engine revs nice and easily right up to the 6000 red line

Edited by ahardb0dy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol when I did my first oil change on this Pathfinder after I bought it someone way over tightened it as well. It was so tight that a screwdrive through it didn't do anything but bend the screw driver and shred the oil filter. Then I grounded out on something that sent sparks all over the place and shocked me. Sometimes people just don't know how to properly replace an oil filter...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm guessing you weren't the last one to change the filter? A lot of people over tighten the damn things.

 

the filter was on the engine when I bought the engine, it was a JDM factory filter. When my guy swapped the engines I told him I didn't want to put the good oil in right away until I saw that there were no leaks, he said the oil still looked good so left it in, the oil and filter was only in/on the engine in my truck for about a week. Running Mobil one and Nissan filter now.

 

definitely a lot easier when truck has a body lift, mine doesn't..yet

Edited by ahardb0dy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't forget to lube the gasket on the filter with a dab of fresh oil too, generally helps a little from the filter heat welding itself on so to say.

 

always do that. thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cuong:

I'm glad to hear somone else puts oil in the filter before installing it!

 

I get razzed by buddies all the time that think it is rediculous that I put oil into the new filter until it won't absorb any more...I say see your Chevy in the JY while out ebay shopping! Lol. They all making knocking noises anyway but why not give it a little chance at a non-dry start up.

 

Sometimes (when I have it in the garage) I even use Marvel Mystery Oil in the filter so that it goes quicker into the engine on that first start-up...love that stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

replacing this filter, even if it wasn't stuck was a pain in the ass without a body lift, I don't remember having such a hard time to get the filter in and out. Might be able to use that as reasoning to my wife to put a body lift in it !! LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

something about FRAM filters... I put mine on hand tight and they always require allot of force coming off 3k miles later... I imagine if I put them on tighter I would not be able to get them off.... I switched to bosch for now anyway. they seem to come back off fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I try to use the Nissan oil filter when ever I can, but if I don't feel like driving to the dealer to get on my back up filter of choice is the Purolator Pure One, it has gotten positive reviews on the bob is the oil guy website.

 

 

The filter I took off appears to be a factory Nissan oil filter, it's the standard Nissan blue with the part number on it but it says "pitwork" what is that a Japanese thing??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought the regular NGK's only plug I would consider using, will check the condition of the cap and rotor tomorrow, took it for a test drive this JDM engine revs nice and easily right up to the 6500 red line

 

the limit is at 6000

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fram... There should be a filter for that word around here... Just like Jeep. And as for the BL... Makes it alot easier to do the oil change(and other things). Your still having HB flashbacks... Which have a factory BL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's been discussed before... It's like a 1 or1.5 inch bl on the 4x4s. Why the ARB for a HB fits a 2in BL-ed wd21. (I remember the factory one on my old 4x4 HBs)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you must be referring to the hardbody body mounts that always drop down causing the cab body line to not equal the bed body line

 

will the "body lift" from the hardbody work in a pathfinder??

Edited by ahardb0dy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I try to use the Nissan oil filter when ever I can, but if I don't feel like driving to the dealer to get on my back up filter of choice is the Purolator Pure One, it has gotten positive reviews on the bob is the oil guy website.

 

 

The filter I took off appears to be a factory Nissan oil filter, it's the standard Nissan blue with the part number on it but it says "pitwork" what is that a Japanese thing??

yeh, that Purolator Pure One is the #1 but currently not redily availble here. The Bosch is #2 and is always available in multiple stores as well as #3 mobil one.

 

Fram... There should be a filter for that word around here... Just like Jeep. And as for the BL... Makes it alot easier to do the oil change(and other things). Your still having HB flashbacks... Which have a factory BL.

 

 

yes, most FRAM oil filters these days are crap but the FRAM Tough Guad retains enough good qualities to make #6 on my list.

 

if anybody is wondering what my list is, its a group of 6 compatible oil filters ordered by quality that fit the wd21 but are about 1" longer(more voulume and less restriction due to larger filter element). here is the list and part #'s for the taller filters.

#1) Purolator PureONE - PL20195

 

2) Bosch - 3422

 

3) Mobil 1 - M1209

 

4) K&N - HP2009

 

5) Motorcraft - FL400S

 

6) FRAM Tough Guard – TG3600 (all other FRAM filters are inferior)

they fit in the stock location with stock manifolds and I think they might fit with headders too. I have a remote kit now and thats why I don't know if they fit with headders.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on my Hardbody I used to run a dual remote kit, I had the filters mounted under the pass. door and ran 2 full size filters, think it added more than a quart of capacity easily between the 2 big filters and the hoses

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Umm are you sure the 3600 fits? I bought a 3600 because they didn't have a 3682 and it didn't fit, it hit the frame.

 

I thought I had run it a few times when I had the stock setup. I could be remebering wrong...

Its also possible that your engine is stitting a little differant on the frame. I know mine sits a little to the left and I had clearance issues with my rag joint clamp hitting my headers because of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, just incase you guys didn't know,

 

All vehicles come with a different filter when sold from the manufacturing plant before they are sold to customers. That filter is the BEST filter the company makes has for that specific vehicle and is much better then what is normally the option for your vehicle when you check with Nissan for your standard oil filter. It has a much finer mesh filter inside it to catch all the flashing and crap that is associated with new engines. They are most pricey, and even then a lot of Parts guys aren't even aware there is an option for them. But you can Custom order them. You'll end up having to buy the pack of 6 or 12... whatever they order, but if you're doing your own oil changes anyway, that shouldn't be a real problem. It provides a much better filtering process although its really hard to tell just how effective it would be considering many of our engines are in the Higher mileage limits now. Although for those of us planning on a Engine rebuild keep this in mind.

 

 

Something to consider if you want to stick with a Nissan Filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...