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Mid Skid Plate Project Is ...*FINISHED*


fleurys
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Well, I have finally started my second skid plate project. This time I have used a piece of transparent acrylic to help me see where I needed to cut and where to put access windows. The final plate will be made from 1/4" Aluminum with SS bolts

 

The goal I'm setting for this one is pretty much like the first. Which is hopefully no compromise... So the goals are the following :

 

1) Light

2) rust protected

3) Gives access to Engine oil drain screw without removing whole plate

4) Gives access to Trans oil drain screw without removing whole plate

5) Gives access to TC oil drain and fill screws without removing whole plate

6) Gives access to Front Diff drain and fill screws without removing whole plate

7) good and solid points of attachment

8) one plate for Trans and TC protection

9) gives access to the transverse link bolts in order to remove an half-shaft without removing the plate

 

 

 

Number 7 was the toughest part... That's one of the reason I decided to make the plate as large as it is. Because it will attach to the <frame> rails, that is why it is larger. I did not wanted to fabricate more brackets or other gizmos... For now I am at my first draft and that's why my measurements are not symmetrical .. I just wanted to have a feel for the size and see how the parts would be protected underneath.

 

Next step will be to do a second plastic one with final measurements and be 100% symmetrical. Then I will be working on the support blocks that will bolts in the frame (and where the plate will bolts to the blocks).

 

If you look carefully you will see where I have tentatively decided to put the attaching blocks. I have draw a square with an X inside.

 

The ruler you see on the side is 48 inches long just to give you a sens of the size of this thing. The holes will be covered and removable just like my first skid plate.

 

Any comments or idea , good or bad, are welcomed. Here are the first pictures of the project.

 

DCP_2065.jpg

DCP_2066.jpg

DCP_2067.jpg

Edited by fleurys
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Is there a heat build up between the plates and the mechanical part.

 

Because on the site of rasta 4x4 theytalk about air intake to help prevent

 

damage.

 

Front skid plate

Rasta front skid plate is the best you can find these days.

We enhancement the efficiency of the plate by adding very important element- an Air Intake

When you put a skid plate naturally, the air cooling is capture between the skid plates and the cover of your engine, the result is high tempreture the can damage your engine.

Rasta develops a special Air Intake specific for the Pathfinder that allows smooth and effective cooling.

 

Can that be an issue or is it salesperson talk

 

Rasta 4X4 Pathfinder page

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Steve, are you going to make tiny holes or small openings so that in case of mud crossing, its easier to wash off the mud that gets trapped above the skid plate without removing the entire structure... and heat will be able to escape through the skid plate into the outside rather than get trapped and go to the cabin... just my thought,

Edited by dududuckling
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I would also suggest less windows, unless you never go in the mud and only play on rocks. You will want to take it off occasional to clean the mud off of it. I didn't do this often enough on my 4 wheeler and it made a nasty mess.

James

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Wow... Thanks everyone for your inputs. Really appreciate it...

 

1) As for the air intake, I'm not planning on putting one since it would have to be done on my first skidplate (the front one)..and since the plastic original did not had any, i'm not too worried about engine damage..

 

2) Heat dissipation and mud cleaning.mmmm Well, the plate will be flush with the trans crossmember but will be spaced with blocks on the back since the transfer case and the rest is higher. So to have a straight plate, I will do that with small attachement blocks.. So there should be plenty of space to put a tip of a power washer and clean everything without having to remove everything... But the beauty of this metal, is that if you wish, you can simply take a hand drill with a regular drill bit and make your own holes... I mean it's not alot harder drilling through this than though hard wood... So I'm not planning on putting any holes, but the client (you guys !:-) ) can easily add them if you wish or if you see that the cleaning is not as easy as I say it will be... In any case there will be a testing phase to see all that, but i'm keeping the suggestion. As for the heat, I'll see how it goes... not sure what to expect yet.. My plate will stop right after the TC, so before the muffler and the rest of the piping can have more wind etc from the side... That's one unknown for now...

 

3) Window access... That's one that has been haunting me for a while... I'm trying to think ease of maintenance and ease of trail fix... I actually have less than what I originally wanted.. ! I wanted 2 more for being able to change/remove the front drive shaft in a trail in case it broke... I dropped these 2 windows but to be frank I would have difficulty dropping any more... I change my trans , TC and 2 diff oils every 2-3 trails where I go deep water (above the diffs).. So for me this can translate to 2-3 times during the summer and I usually do it one last time before winter comes just to be on the safe side (don't want water in the diffs when temp goes -20c..). I Think they could also serve the mud cleaning issue... How about taking 5 minutes to remove all four windows and start power washing through these ?? I think It can work...We'll see..

 

Thanks again.. ;-)

Edited by fleurys
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  • 4 weeks later...

Update....

 

Was finally able to do more work on this last weekend and tonight. At last there was a nice day on the last weekend and was able to cut my aluminum sheet from the plastic template. I have decided to just go along with the one that I had and not redo another one symmetric. The reason being i'm doing a big trail this weekend and since I'm gonna try some new parts of the trail, I wanted to be plated.

 

Now, I'm realizing that such a project with hand tools and a shed is starting to be difficult. I cut the plate with a handsaw and grinder. This makes it hard to have perfectly straight lines etc... So for now, this plate is far from perfect but I'm very happy to have it made. Now what will I do in the future is still up in the air as it is quite difficult. I guess doing this in a fully equipped shop with hydraulic bender,cutter etc. would make the work alot more enjoyable...

 

For the mounting points, I have decided to go with blocks of aluminum 2.5 X 3 X 2 (W x L x H). They are made from 2 pieces of 1 inch aluminum plate then mig welded together. The transmission cross member is the lowest point on our trucks and the frame rails are exactly 2 inches higher. So once the plate is stiffed on the crossmember, I will screw in 4 blocks in the frame and attach the skid on the blocks. The blocks are not hollow so they will not bend when side pulling force is apply on them when the truck hits a rock.

 

Here's a few pictures.

 

CIMG0826.jpg

CIMG0827.jpg

CIMG0828.jpg

CIMG0829.jpg

CIMG0831.jpg

Edited by fleurys
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Good job man! I know what you mean about working out of a shed when used to a large shop thats why I'm about to give up on my bumper project. I don't envy you I hate welding aluminum!

James

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Well, the plate is installed and I never had so much problems in one project than this one !!!

 

I broke 2 tap, 1 drill bit and strip 1 skidplate bolts (big one). On top of that I had a shoulder tendonitis. Now try drilling 2 inch thick aluminum blocks from underneath the truck in your driveway with a screwed shoulder... After the 5th hole I was done... Boy did I swear making this one... I was still able to finish it just in time to my weekend-long trail in the gazoduc which I post some picture soon. I can only say that the skidplate was VERY usefull.... no regrets...

 

Here's a few pictures...

 

BEFORE:

CIMG0835.jpg

 

AFTER:

CIMG0841.jpg

 

 

 

With the windows open:

CIMG0839.jpg

 

I also ended up welding the plate to the blocks.. I do not have any picture of it yet but I will try to take some. I did this cause I did not feel that the plate was attached enough on the blocks. So It actually takes only 4 bolts to remove the plate and it works very well. I can access the block bolts through holes that I drilled in the plate..

 

I will try to post more picture soon.

 

CIMG0843.jpg

 

 

In the end , it's a good first try... I will definitely do a version 2 of it in the future with some bends in the right places so that I lose less clearance at some places, but it will do for now...

 

S.

Edited by fleurys
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Looks great! Now you need to post some pics with some skid marks on it! I think welding the blocks was a good idea. I understand why you put the windows but if you only have to remove 4 bolts to drop it and it cant be very heavy since its aluminum I think I would have left it solid. Did you tack weld the nuts to the frame so you don't need a backup when you remove it?

James

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Pictures with marks on them will come...I have put some nice one on it last weekend... As for the windows, I'm more convinced now than before that it was the best idea because.... last weekend trail, stripped the other bolt that was holding it in the front.... The skid still hang in there, but now I have decided to weld the 2 plates together at the sub-frame junction. This way, it will hold it's structure better and the whole assembly will distribute the force when it starts to bend or gets a hit.

 

So it will hold from 4 main bolts directly in the frame plus 5 bolts on the front skid... It will be removable as a whole, therefore the windows are now very welcome.... :-)

 

Thanks for comments everyone.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Here they are... New pictures with the front skid welded to the mid one (after the gazoduc trail ripped apart my bolts threads from the sub frame). The welds are awfull as we tried with a rod instead of our usual mig method (using an aluminum spool), but at the end it holds...that's what's important... So I now have a full length skid that is bolted with only 6 bolts. I just removed it and put it back myself minutes ago to unbend a few spots that were creating noise vibration inside the cab. So I'm pretty happy after all to have used aluminum.. would not have been able to remove it and reinstall it like that alone if not alu.... using a hydraulic hand jack to hold it in place while I unscrew the bolts, it took me about 10 minutes to remove completely.. about 15 to put back.

 

Here's the scratches and abuse it got in 2 trails...considering what it has protected, i consider it did it's job very well. That's it.. End of project for this one.

 

Next project : limiting straps or if you want <anti-bang> straps ;)

 

CIMG1184.jpg

CIMG1177.jpg

CIMG1178.jpg

CIMG1179.jpg

CIMG1180.jpg

CIMG1181.jpg

CIMG1182.jpg

CIMG1183.jpg

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Jeeze....you're ROUGH on your skids!

 

Do you think that would have happened on 1/4" steel? :P

 

On a 1/4" steel, probably not to that point, maybe a bit les, but on a 3/16" steel, I suspect the same since I did the sledgehammer test between 1/4" alu and 3/16" steel...

 

With that kind of size, I can only imagine the fun I would have removing a 200+ lbs steel skid...

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  • 1 month later...

Any more intrest in these skids??? have you got a 2.0 version out yet??

 

Taking a break from fabrication for the trail season... I'm wheeling every weekend lately. Right now, my version 1 is doing the job very well, so no plans for now...

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