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Differences Between The Vg30E And Vg33E


silverton
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Perhaps I didn't search enough, or maybe this will be a good thread to start.

 

But what exactly are the differences between them? I think I read that they have a bigger bore, and not a longer stroke? So to do the swap one would need the whole block...

 

If it's just a longer stroke, should be able to take the crank out of one, and just put it in the vg30e block and call it good. I've done this with my old toyota supras engine, crank/rods out of the 7m and pistons/head of the stock 5m increases displacement from 2.8 to 3.0...

 

Or is it easiest to just get a VG33e shortblock, and put the vg30e heads on it while keeping the stock ecu/wiring harness.

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main differences are bore, and some coolant passages in the head.

cranks will swap, as the only difference between the two is the crank snout, but there is no benefit, unless you have a vg33 equipped vehicle, the engine has died, and swapping a vg30 engine in is currently your only option, for whatever reason.

 

Paeco used to sell a stroker crank for the vg33e, but I haven't seen one for a vg30e, ever (not even in a z31). in theory, the snout could be machined for the vg30 accessory pulley.

the vg30e block can't/shouldn't be machined to a vg33's bore, there isn't enough meat to sustain it (so I have been told).

if you have access to a machine shop, you could theoretically build a 4.0L+ engine out of a vg33, bored and stroked, but I haven't seen one of those, yet, either.

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if u want you can join z31performance.com alot of people on there with z like mine convert their vg30et to a vg33et by swaping parts they will know every well what different. Its actually really common for people to do that on there. I personally dont have any expeirence withit though.

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The difference is a 3.

 

This has been discussed quite a bit, everything from putting a VG33 into a 87-95 to swapping heads, cylinders, cam and any combination. I'm just not interested enough right now to search for the threads...

 

B

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main differences are bore, and some coolant passages in the head.

cranks will swap, as the only difference between the two is the crank snout, but there is no benefit, unless you have a vg33 equipped vehicle, the engine has died, and swapping a vg30 engine in is currently your only option, for whatever reason.

 

Paeco used to sell a stroker crank for the vg33e, but I haven't seen one for a vg30e, ever (not even in a z31). in theory, the snout could be machined for the vg30 accessory pulley.

the vg30e block can't/shouldn't be machined to a vg33's bore, there isn't enough meat to sustain it (so I have been told).

if you have access to a machine shop, you could theoretically build a 4.0L+ engine out of a vg33, bored and stroked, but I haven't seen one of those, yet, either.

I'm pretty sure the blocks are identical. Mr.Jim has his bored over, by how much I don't remember.

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I'm pretty sure the blocks are identical. Mr.Jim has his bored over, by how much I don't remember.

 

I don't believe so; the vg33 block can be bored further than the vg30 block.

 

a little info on it here:

http://www.z31perfor...aa2d6d4c5165f65

since you have to log in to see it, I will post the info here:

I was dialing in the boring bar today, and testing the replacement 60 degree v6 base to make sure it's true. Threw up an old junk vg30 block, and was on the way to VG33 size to see what wall thickness was like. I got to 3.56" and decided to check and see where it was at. cyl#1 turned out to be about .155" on the thrust side and between .140" and .145" everywhere else. I would hate to bore another .042" out of that, that would make the walls less than an 8th of an inch in some spots. icon_surprised.gif

 

so, I don't know if there is already documentation on this.. but I see this question thrown around all the time on all sorts of forums, so I thought I'd post up a definite answer... it's going to get THIN!

Would you be willing to continue until you found the breakthrough thickness so we can document at least one case of wall thickness?

okay, the VG30 broke through at 3.78". broke through right below the deck. VG30 will be okay to run all the way up to 90mm bore. You might be able to get away with VH45 pistons if you checked to make sure your walls were okay.

 

VG33 has THICK walls.. they measured out at about .300ish thickness on a stock bore block. You could bore a VG33 all the way up to 99mm if you wanted to and you'd still have 5/32" to 1/8" cylinder walls. That would make it a 3.8 liter!!! haha

 

You don't have to drop $ to get machine work done, basic stuff like crank grinding and boring/honing is cheap, but also, cheap can be relative. our shop charges 89$ to grind a crank, and 10$ per hole to bore and 5$ per hole to hone, 50$ to surface each deck... so you could get away with a totally machined block and ground crank for under 300 bucks. Most prices are similar to ours, except for the big name race guys who do machine work, and all you're paying for there is a name.

 

honestly, if it was my engine.. I'd rather oil the pistons/walls by adding a little more rod bearing clearance with a little more rod side clearance than put squirters in. I hate squirters, they are nothing but a failure point IMO. lots of engines are running high hp w/o squirters, I don't think not having them is a restriction. I always block 'em off, I'd rather have pressure than oil on the bottom of my pistons. I built a 4g63 for a buddy last year with blocked off squirters, and he's running 25 psi on a T88 and hitting high 9's in the 1/4 with no problems.

 

there is a little more reading (seven pages worth) but this is the gist of the subject.

 

 

Toby: bore is larger.

Edited by BenStoked
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