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Vg33 Swap In ’94 Pathy


pulxar
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No worries. Like I said, if I run across one with low miles and good price, I'll have 2 VG30Es for sale... :D

 

B

 

I'm keeping an eye out for one currently. All i know is ALOT of VG33's gave their life so the former owner can be driving around in a POS Camry.

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So, I found the last gremlin with the Speedometer, it was not the sender or the dash like I suspected. It was a dumb rookie mechanic mistake. I left the wiring harness form the tranny unsecured and it slid over onto the exhaust manifold. Wire + hot manifold = bad things... I soldered the wires back together and wrapped them individually then as a group. Everything works again and lesson learned! As soon as I go through a tank of gas I'll post the mileage I'm getting on the new engine.

 

On another note, I was due for emissions and the new setup passed with flying colors. To me that is the final proof that the VG30 computer can compensate for the larger displacement without any issues.

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So, I found the last gremlin with the Speedometer, it was not the sender or the dash like I suspected. It was a dumb rookie mechanic mistake. I left the wiring harness form the tranny unsecured and it slid over onto the exhaust manifold. Wire + hot manifold = bad things... I soldered the wires back together and wrapped them individually then as a group. Everything works again and lesson learned! As soon as I go through a tank of gas I'll post the mileage I'm getting on the new engine.

 

On another note, I was due for emissions and the new setup passed with flying colors. To me that is the final proof that the VG30 computer can compensate for the larger displacement without any issues.

 

Question. Will Thorley VG30E headers (short tube) bolt up to the VG33?

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They should bolt up just fine. Bolt pattern is the same. The studs are 10mm on the VG33 as opposed to the 8mm ones on the VG30.

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Out of curiosity, was there any reason you could see NOT to use the stock VG33 crank pulley and accessories? I assume you swapped yours to save money, but would there be any other reason?

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The alternator is on the opposite side, is it not, and what about the power steering pump? Is there even one an an R50?? It seems like it would be easier to set up all the WD accessories. I'll have to take a good look when I get home...

 

B

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I believe the alternator is in the same place. There would have to be a PS pump, which I believe is in the same general vicinity as the WD21 pump.

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Hmm....so if I found an Xterra VG33, I could theoretically swap it in accessories and all.

I spoke to a guy who did just that when I was researching the swap, he ran into some similar problems to me as far as the oil pans and stuff was concerned but it is also a viable option. I just didn't want to deal with all the re-plumbing. He had to get the AC redone, modify the wiring harness to fit the Xterra hardware, and fab a bit more for his exhaust (not exactly sure why he had to do that). He was using headers if I remember correctly, and had to drill them out for the larger studs too...

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They are on opposite sides in the r50. Alternator is on passenger side and the ps pump is on the drivers side.

 

Only thing i think is on the driver's side in the WD21 is the A/C compressor.

 

but after looking up pics on the VG33 you are right.

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Out of curiosity, was there any reason you could see NOT to use the stock VG33 crank pulley and accessories? I assume you swapped yours to save money, but would there be any other reason?

 

Y'all are loosing me here, when you say crank pulley are you talking about the stamped sheet metal pulley or the actual cast iron harmonic balancer that is pressed on the crankshaft? If y'all are talking about boring out the harmonic balancer, are y'all sure the crank balances the same? A guy on clubtitan started making lighter balancers for Titans to improve performance and through off the crank balance and caused all kinds of troubles.

James

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On another note, I was due for emissions and the new setup passed with flying colors. To me that is the final proof that the VG30 computer can compensate for the larger displacement without any issues.

It may be the little baby cam that comes stock in the 3.3 helping you pass too.

I wonder if it would pass with the 3.0 cam or even an aftermarket cam?

 

 

Question. Will Thorley VG30E headers (short tube) bolt up to the VG33?

YES but you may or may not need to ream the holes for the 10mm studs

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Realistically, how much does a VG33E engine cost (assuming it's complete, in decent condition (eg, runs), all that)

 

I'm considering a full re-build of my VG30E... and now I'm thinking I might just look for a VG33E, rebuild that, and go that route...

 

On a scale of 1-10, asuming decent mechanical competence (but not much experience), how hard would you say the swap was?

 

Any specialty tools needed?

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Cost? I've seen them sell on ebay for as little as $900 and under 100k. Many can be found from importers (who sell on ebay too) for $1-2k and usually only have 50-60k miles on them.

They were often replaced for small things like oil pan leak or RMS leak because in Japan they find it more cost effective to change an engine than chase a leak(to comply with their clean roads laws) then they come over here and sell for cheap.

 

 

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Realistically, how much does a VG33E engine cost (assuming it's complete, in decent condition (eg, runs), all that)

 

I'm considering a full re-build of my VG30E... and now I'm thinking I might just look for a VG33E, rebuild that, and go that route...

 

On a scale of 1-10, asuming decent mechanical competence (but not much experience), how hard would you say the swap was?

 

Any specialty tools needed?

No special tools needed, outside of an engine hoist and an engine stand, and I am not an experienced mechanic. On a 1 - 10 I'd rate it at about an 8 for myself. But keep in mind I nave NEVER attempted anything like this before. I paid $750 for the complete engine form a wrecking yard, it ran, had good compression and almost exactly 100k on it. It did not need a full rebuild, I just kept the block and heads as they were and made the rest work. Oh, I did need a grinder to modify some things and a ball-peen hammer to modify the oil pan (I had to buy both).

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Wow... awesome news!

 

Assuming I go to a wrecker - what all should I look for, and will they allow me to test and see if the engine works?

I'm sure that depends on the wrecker. I know the guy who runs the local yard, so I just asked him to show me any VG33's and then I picked the best one and had him fire it up for me to be sure it ran. The Frontier and Xterra engines may be a better choice than the newer pathfinder engine I used as they already have the oil filter bracket you'll need.

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Hm, so now the only issue is finding a wrecker around here... living in PA sucks, lol. Absolutely nothin 'round here.

 

Agreed. And we own a junkyard lol. Thing is we got 3 or 4 R50's, just all C4C trucks. So the engines are seized. Sucks because all of them were super clean trucks as well. And we only got maybe 2 or 3 WD21's and all of them are junk.

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Toby, you live in PA? Where about? I'd love to come poke around your yard - I've never even been IN a wrecker yard yet so I'm not entirely sure I'll know what I"m doing - a little first hand education would make me a LOT safer I'm sure

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Cost? I've seen them sell on ebay for as little as $900 and under 100k. Many can be found from importers (who sell on ebay too) for $1-2k and usually only have 50-60k miles on them.

They were often replaced for small things like oil pan leak or RMS leak because in Japan they find it more cost effective to change an engine than chase a leak(to comply with their clean roads laws) then they come over here and sell for cheap.

$1-2k for a 3.3 when a 3.0 goes for $500?? :blink:

I'll have to find a rolled truck...

 

B

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