Phenomenon Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Ok it's not exactly a Pathy but the same driveline wise... 86.5 D21 Hardbody truck with a 3.0L TBI V6 engine and auto trans. I originally thought my ECU was bad (code 31) but I "borrowed" a friends Pathy ECU with the same numbers and the truck still refuses to start without pressing the accelerator to the floor. When it does start it literally dumps fuel into the exhaust so badly that it shoots fuel 3-4ft out of the tail pipe. WHen you shut it off it pours fuel out of the Y pipe off the manifolds onto the ground. I have asked on the D21 forums and they recommended I ask here (smarter people here i'm told ). If anyone has any insight into this engines problem please let me know. Thanks, Gordon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Injectors? I don't really know how the tbi works but I do know it has 2 injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 that sounds like what happened when my injectors started leaking. It didn't spray that far but you could hear it trickle down the headders after you shut off the engine. any injector codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Either leaking injectors or a faulty fuel pressure regulator that is way over pressurizing the fuel system. Check the pressure first as it doesn't require a lot and will settle that question. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phenomenon Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Fuel pressure is correct. I am "borrowing" a set of Pathy injectors today and will keep you posted. I tried checking for error codes 5 times by following the FAQ but my ECU lights never flashed together. I got 3 red lights and 1 green or vise versa can't remember... either way thats why i thought it was a code 31 btu now i'm not sure if the ECU is at fault or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcpath Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Replace the lower O rings on the injectors. It could be the pressure regulator....not sure about your model though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Fuel pressure is correct. I am "borrowing" a set of Pathy injectors today and will keep you posted. I tried checking for error codes 5 times by following the FAQ but my ECU lights never flashed together. I got 3 red lights and 1 green or vise versa can't remember... either way thats why i thought it was a code 31 btu now i'm not sure if the ECU is at fault or not. If it was code 13 (the other way around) engine coolant temp sensor, that could also cause it to put WAY too much fuel in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phenomenon Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 According to the FAQ you put the switch on the ECU to diagnostic mode, then turn he key on and wait till both light flash together 3 times. Then switch the ECU back to normal and it will display the error codes. My lights never flash together though... any thoughts on what i'm doing wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frecklecolouredbrain Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) you're probably pushing the switch the wrong way. 1. turn power on. 2. flip the to the left(toward rear seat when the switch is facing the passenger seat). ***one or both lights will flash once(modeI), then twice(modeII) etc. up to mode V, then repeat the sequence.*** 3. After the light flashes 3x (modeIII), flip the switch to the right(toward the front of the truck). ***You have to be ready on the switch for this! If you wait for the flashes and then go to the switch you won't have enough time, and end up on modeIV*** 4. watch for a few seconds, then count the flashes. i can't remember which colour goes first, but the first light is for the first digit and the second light is for the second digit. 5. write the number down and look at the lights again, just incase there is a second code you missed, and to verify the code you wrote down. 6a. Check in your haynes manual for the code. 6b. go buy a haynes manual as they are really handy ***If the code you got is not in the manual, you didn't do step 5 properly. hope this helps Edited March 12, 2010 by LittleReD89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phenomenon Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 I finally got my truck to run (new gently used injectors) but there is white smoke coming from the exhaust and it smells sweet like coolant. No actual liquid coming out the exhaust and it's not pressurizing the rad (cap off and running it's not coming out). This will be the 1st time i've ever done a head gasket on a OHC engine.... normally work on pushrod engines that have a simple timing chain. Does anyone know if there is a writeup on replacing the head gasket on a 3.0L V6 VG30E? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddirtyrake Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Does anyone know if there is a writeup on replacing the head gasket on a 3.0L V6 VG30E? I don't think there is though I replaced the head gasket on my 95 pathy Just get a manual it will go step by step for everything you need. I would recommend having it verified through a trusted shop that it needs to be replaced before you go any further as it can be alot of work. Its not really that bad, take pictures as you go along so you know where all the wires/vacuum lines go as some of them are not mentioned well in the manual. Keep all fasteners in ziplock bags labeled, and replace things that are easily gotten to like thermostat, any bad lifters/rockers, replace header exhaust manifold bolts. The shorter amount of time you can do it in the easier you will find it to be. I took awhile to do mine because I had a new baby work full time and am just busy in general. Good luck if you do decide to replace yours though I would make sure the rig is worth digging into that deep (rusty frame,slipping tranny etc..)If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 the only differance as far as your concerned is removing the timing belt first and the rest of the valvetrain stays put. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phenomenon Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 Turned out not to be a head gasket but 9.5L of oil & gas mixed in the crankcase from the old injectors dumping so much fuel past the rings. Did 2 oil changes and my white smoke is completely gone... it runs perfectly now. Next up is to change the trans filter and fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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