kcpath

I tested the door switch and its not that. It did come with a Crimestopper alarm, key-less entry, trunk entry. I've put new battery's in the fob and reset the fob....also contacted Crimestopper and was told the alarm key-less etc would not interfere with locking the doors from the inside switch panel. I also found the 3 wires from the switch panel on the door. how can I trace that back to the contol box.

When I bought my wrecked 92 pathy $125 it was in bad shape, after a new/used front clip, gutted the frame rot, new calipers, pads, all new front end linkage, rancho shocks, rebuilt engine and reman tranny, new wheels tires, etc, etc. I spent a lot of money restoring this thing and for the door locks and trunk lid not to work its pissin me off. Where do I start troubleshooting this thing? its not the obvious fuse that would make things easy.

I've been having charging problems...248K on original alt so I replaced it, everything is charging again. However, I noticed out the corner of my eye the fusible links at the bat are smoking. It's not the red/orange ones, there is another set a black and green. Well the black one now gets very hot. how do I trouble shoot this?

92 v6 auto 4x4, 195K, with 5K on upper and lower rebuild. the idle is rough when accelerating and at certain speeds you can feel it cutting out. almost like it's misfiring or the timing jumped. I have not checked the plugs, their new by the way, but I did pull the coil wires one at a time on the dist. cap to see if I could arc the wire to the dist cap on all cyls and they all have a strong spark on that end. no noticeable lines are cracked. I replaced all the tune up parts when I rebuilt the engine, rotor, wires, plugs, etc another weirdo problem that happened this week is with my amp meter. normally it would show 13 or above when at idle and as I would rev up, the lights would get brighter. on my way home I notice the meter was slowing going down and the battery died while I was driving, the headlights went dim, the radio was coming in and out. I got home and it would not turn over at all after shutting it off. So I pulled the harness off the alternator and cleaned it, cleaned the battery posts and made sure everything was tight. After I got it jumped, the meter went back up like normal, the lights were bright...but it would get low after a while, then I would mess with the harness, then it would got back up. After a few days its staying near 11amps and I can have everything on and the battery not be drained if I'm driving it...of course at idle it will drop to like 9 or 10amps. It hasn't went dead yet, but the meter is not like it used to be and the lights used to be brighter. All this happened within the last few days and the temperature in my area has bee 110 degrees Fahrenheit with 60/90% humidity.

92 pathfinder 4x4 v6. My when I'm on the hwy it shifts from overdrive to the gear before when I'm at cruising speed. It goes back and forth, back and forth and only stops if I accelerate. I've also noticed that my AT Power Light comes on after its started.

I talked to a guy a walmart when looking for something to try and get rid of all the gas in my crankcase. He said to use about a quart and a half of tranny fluid then let it idle for about 20 minutes, drain and change filter, refile with new oil. Gonna try it in the morn....

before my previous tear down of the top engine I had a leaking injector that filled cyl 3 with gas. I just happened to sniff the oil and there was gas. So I drained the oil and sure enough it was loaded with gas. I ran about 4qt of fresh oil through it and then filled it back up with fresh oil. Starts every time now. I will need to change the oil again to make sure all the gas is out. My lifters are tapping a little so I know there still must be some in there.

any ideas on why my 92 pathy won't stay started and will only start after it sits for about 25 minutes. Once started it will eventually die after a few minutes. I cleaned the spark plugs, they were black...meaning its running to lean. Replaced the distributor rotor. Took off the fuel rail and made sure there were not any leaks from the injectors. After I get it started again then ran for a few minutes I pulled a few plugs and there black again.

I rebuilt my engine 92 pathy v6. I cranked it up a few times this morning but didn't drive it until I got my header cross pipe on... Then when I finally got it on I checked all the fluids again and this was my first road test. It fired right up. Drove it around for about 5-7 miles and noticed when I would sit for a few seconds the water temp would go up a little bit so I turned around and headed for the garage. I kept it running while I popped the hood and noticed there was a small leak in a hose...(I didn't put the fan or shroud on during the first road test.) So I checked the temp gauge again and it was getting a little hot. I shut it off to let it cool for several minutes. Went I went to crank it would not start. Fuel pressure is good, spark is good, injector pulse is good...checked the fusible links. NOW WHAT?!?!

patience huh...ok pal

How in the F do you fill the t-case without making a mess. I took a hose and clamped it to the end of a small funnel, then gently pored fluid into the funnel...but it made a mess. I think I got the t-case full, but with out a pump how else can you fill the sucker up?

After doing some research here http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/fusible_links.php, I think I'm going to keep my fusibles. Thanks LittleRed89 for quesitoning it...it made me wonder. Cheers!

I understand your point. But my argument is...why spend all day trying to figure out why your car won't start; all because a little wire has melted inside it's coating...you can't visually tell a fusible link is bad. You can also by fuse housing that is water tight. With a fuse you can take a few second peak at it and tell if its blown or not.

I want to get rid of the fusible links on the battery harness and replace them with regular fuses. Any idea's? What fuse amp should I use? There are a set of orange and a set of green fusible links. Thanks for your suggestions.

Replace the lower O rings on the injectors. It could be the pressure regulator....not sure about your model though.

I got injector pulse now! This thing should start when I get'er back together. I jumpered the fusible links and SHABAM, Noids lite up nice and bright. I replaced the fusibles earlier, but they were used one's I got from the JY...they where bad.

I went to the JY this morning and found 4 complete distributors and 4 coils. 3 are out of Maxima's and 1 is out of a Quest, they all had the caps on so I pulled them. I'll have 3 dizzy's and 3 coils to sell on here....just the sensors on the dizzy's the yoke's are not long enough for the Path's. Send me some prayer's that this will fix my injector pulse problem.

that sucker is $164 from rockauto.com....i may make a trip to the junk yard or find a way to test it

Found out what's wrong! The injectors are not pulsing...I borrowed a "Noid" tester from O'Rilley's. Its a bulb that plugs into the injector harness plug. You plug the bulb in and it should pulse when the engine is turning over...I tested all six harness plugs and no pulse. I had thought previously that I confirmed I could hear the injectors clicking, but the click was coming from something else. So no fuel, no go...makes sense. Now..where to start..why are the injectors not pulsing? It's an electrical problem for sure.

I took the TB covers off today also. Took the belt on and off a few times, counted the teeth between left and right crankshaft marks (40 teeth) and then from the left camshaft to the crankshaft mark (43 teeth) and No 1 piston was TDC.

It is a fuel problem for sure. for this whole time I had the fuel hose from the filter going to the pressure regulator side of the fuel rail. So I switched the two fuel hoses around and I'm getting a little further...it wants to start bad, but wont stay at idle and dies...tried the starter fluid and it still dies, but at least it's a little better since I switched the fuel hoses. I wonder if I messed something up on the fuel rail....like the regulator? I can hear the pump come on just fine. I replaced all the injectors with reman's during the rebuild.

ok...a little something new. sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it started, but dies. I adjusted the dist more and kept trying the started fluid...will start, but dies. humm... now what guys?

Tore it down to the bear block...new pistons, rings, oil pump, bearings, valve job, new timing belt, water pump, new headers, etc....it was a complete rebuild, the block, heads, valve covers, oil pan where all media blasted and the block was bored, crank grind, and the heads where decked...should be like a brand new engine.

what I've tried so far... Put new plugs in it today to make sure the old (new ones) where not fouled. Adjusted the dist timing several ways, the Chilton manual says put the rotor at 11 o'clock, but have tried 10 o'clock all while No 1 is at TDC. I've adjusted it to the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke just to make sure. All plugs spark Fusible links are good Confirmed ground is good ECM lights are ok Will try some spraying the intake tomorrow with starter fluid. Thanks ya'll and keep the suggestions comging.

actually its counter clockwise. How? I don;'t know something to do with the electronics. I also confirmed it was on the compression stroke and to make sure I tried the exhaust stroke just to try.