kcpath

Its like getting your favorite toy when you where a kid and it breaks. My neighbor is a master mechanic...he bleeds oil basically, so he said if its timed right and all the obvious has been checked then its the ECM. I'm going to jack with the dist. more and replace the plugs tomorrow. The ECM was working the same day I pulled the engine out.

Still nothing ya'll. I'ved tried the dist in many positions. This thing will just not start...ahhh I need it to start.

is the rotor position really that picky? I figured if it was off a tooth or so then it would still fire but run like @!*%.

I know...something little...damn the little things. I'll go see if I can realign the rotor. I bypassed the fusible links...still no luck. Thanks

I actually had a bad fuel hose and gas was squirting out everywhere...kinda lead me to believe the pressure is good The injector tests are in the FSM. Pull the dist. out of the head and turn the key to ON, then rotate the dist clockwise...you'll hear the fuel pump pumping fuel and each injector will click. Leave the dist. plugged in of course. I meant the belts and dist are as perfect as I can get them until I hear run. I don't understand your explanation of lining up the rotor except 10 o'clock. Can you pls explain? Thanks for the help. I was reading some of the electrical FSM and I think I have a blown fusible link near the battery. I remember when I was taking it apart and the pos cable touched the neg post. Also the connector on the cable is melted/broken/corroded. I try bypassing in tomorrow to test. I look forward to hearing more about lining the rotor. Thanks pal!

The rotor should point to the No. 1 cylinder while its set at TDC. I followed the directions in the FSM and also cross-referenced the Chilton manual. I also tried making adjustments to it to see if I could get it to fire in any position.

Rebuilt 92 v6 Pathy engine....it was a challenging and fun project. I was excited to get it all back together and hear it come back to life, but no such luck. Everything powers up, it turns over, but won't start. Everything was running before I started the rebuild. I rebuilt it because I had the time off work and the money, plus it was leaking oil and was just sluggish, 220K Here is what I have tried: New plugs, dist. cap and rotor...all plugs spark. The fuel pressure is fine. I can hear the injectors clicking while turning the distributor by hand. The timing is close to perfect...until I get it to fire that is the only way to tell. ECM lights come on like there supposed to. I've tried adjusting the distributor timing several ways. I'm looking for things to test and try.

this is typical in all aged cars...there is so much sludge blocking oil flow that the engine needs to warm the oil so it can flow where it needs it. you can try using a lighter weight oil...but as long as the tick goes away after the engine warms a few minutes then there isn't any major problem. a permanent fix would be a valve job and media blast the head.

first...take out the center console and rubber boot for the shift lever. next you'll have to get underneath and locate the shaft...this is the weirdest shift lever configuration I can imagine...btw....cut the top boot band where the shaft meets the rest of the linkage. there is a snap ring that holds it all in...located at the top its not a typical snap ring..you have to pry it off with a small flathead...there is a pin that sits in a grove (pin goes through the center of the main shaft) just below the ring..once the ring is off get back inside the truck and work it loose until you can pull it out...there is a long spring attached to it. You don't need to take the whole assembly apart...just remove the ring, you can use a good sized wire tie to put the boot back on securely.

i checked it out...I can do better than $600. Thanks though. I think I'm going to try and go 1.00mm oversize because I can get pistons that fit. I don't wanna have to get custom pistons made. I'm just making this project harder then it should be.

I'll probably have them grinded as you suggested. What is the oversize bore I need to get to for the 3.3?

like these.....don't know if I can justify $250 plus shipping for around 10HP more. But if I had money to blow... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320465382067&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

bought a second 91 MT pathy for parts plus I'm going to swap my fried 92 AT to the MT. While I'm in there I'm going to pull the engine have it machined and rebuild. What cams should I get....my banks already broke so I can't spend too much more. My new headers should be here any day. Please provide links if you can. THanks!

thanks again

Thanks yall! Ok, someone mentioned mods....what mods will need to be performed? Will I need to interchange anything else to go along with the r50 tranny or will it just bolt on and go?

direct bolt on?

Is a 96 tranny interchangeable with a 92 pathy?

I'd like to, depends if I can find a MT and all the belongings. I have found several pathys and all are AT.

After a few days of my tranny making a whine/grinding/vibration, it died in the McDonalds drive thru. I have never replaced a transmission myself so I'm going to need some help here. I'm going to the junk yard in a few days to pull one out. It sounds easy, but its it? Any tricks to getting it out? Any special tools? Also could the torque converter have went bad and the tranny may still be good? I can run it though all the gears and the damn thing wont move an inch. I shut the engine off and then it would grab D...I made it about 15 miles and it started slipping again.

I'm almost positive it's coming from the transfer-case and not the tranny itself

I'd like to test the torque converter and tranny for any slipping. The guide I'm reading says... "Before conducting a stall test, check the fluid level and condition. Chock the wheels and set the parking brake. Start the engine and place the transmission in drive while holding the brake pedal under firm pressure so the vehicle does not move. Then push the accelerator to the floor while holding the brakes on. Note the maximum rpm the engine reaches. This is the stall speed. If it is lower than specifications, the torque converter one-way clutch is slipping. If the stall speed is higher than specifications, the transmission is slipping. Possible causes include a low fluid level, restricted fluid filter, a sticking pressure regulator valve, slipping clutches, bands, shaft splines or one-way clutch."

What is the stall speed spec for a 1992 v6 A/T. Thank you,

i agree, thank you!

I've read many posts about replacing the oil cooler, but I'm skeptical of that because my path has 190K Miles, the original cooler through the radiator and its still running strong. If it was a big problem why are so many pathys still running with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with original tranny's? Just a quesiton. Anyway...I will crawl under it tomorrow and look for something loose. Thanks very much! Corey

Haha...thanks bud! Don't have a cd player in yet. I'm sure its a tranny problem. Other then the noise it drives like it did before it started makin the noise. I just hope its nothing serious. Also not the rear end.