PATHRIDER Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Thats an awesome buy there as far as the doorlock time I believe what B has would work..My wife has a 94 and I was able to switch hers to mine which is a 93 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafercup Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 So how much did you pay for those swirly license plates? One milllllllion dollars.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 One milllllllion dollars.... So are you associated with this guy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafercup Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 So are you associated with this guy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Just did the solder repair on the door lock timer and the locks work perfectly now! Thanks for the link to the repair, it saved me a good chunk of money. Any electronic device I have that craps out, the first thing I check is for cracked solder joints. Usually fixes it too. Electronics are soldered by machines, they don't check for a good connection when they are finished. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddirtyrake Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Where Did you get that picture of me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 Looks and sounds like an excellent purchase!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafercup Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 (edited) Just did the fluids in the transmission, transfer case, and diff's with all new fresh Redline MTL and 75w90. The old fluids didn't look too bad, but the transmission sure feels smoother (and a bit quieter) with the new stuff. Edited January 30, 2010 by kafercup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Where Did you get that picture of me. I cannot disclose that information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 I feel absolutely no guilt, he named the price. And I thought my $1100 salvage title was a steal... how much for the ctr console? lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 why was your gas gauge not working ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 why was your gas gauge not working ? Yea I would like some ideas too. My old sender had open spots so I figured that was why it showed 1/4 tank all the time. I changed out the sender with a used unit that tested good with an ohm meter and it is doing the same thing. The sub tank gage stays on empty too. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafercup Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Yea I would like some ideas too. My old sender had open spots so I figured that was why it showed 1/4 tank all the time. I changed out the sender with a used unit that tested good with an ohm meter and it is doing the same thing. The sub tank gage stays on empty too. James There is a power regulator unit that attaches to the back of the cluster that goes bad and causes the fuel gauge and coolant gauge to stop functioning. The Nissan part number is 24866-54A00 and the listed part name is Regulator Assy. I changed mine and everything went back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 There is a power regulator unit that attaches to the back of the cluster that goes bad and causes the fuel gauge and coolant gauge to stop functioning. The Nissan part number is 24866-54A00 and the listed part name is Regulator Assy. I changed mine and everything went back to normal. I read about the regulator when I was searching, but my coolant gauge works correctly so I'm thinking the regulator should be good. I'm busy working on the front end right now, I haven't checked much for the gauge yet accept the sender. When I get to the gauge problem I will pull the cluster and check it good. Just stacking ideas right now. I read something about a radio shack part to replace the regulator but the link to the info was dead. Can someone repost that? James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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