new4x4r Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hey guys! I've had this noise/wobble for a while now, could never figure out what it was. Someone told me to take a look at my steering rack bushings, and sure enough they were toast. So I installed new ones and the sound/wobble persists. Its really only on small bumps, like large cracks in the road, or driving through a field. Anyone have any idears? Thanks alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Swaybar links in the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 They look fine, and when I move the wheel is doesn't sound like its coming from there... it almost sounds like the bearings or something. But there is/was no squeeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 how's your balljoints ?? they usually suffer alot from a lift.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 man, I had a good look at all the balljoints/tierod ends and whatnot... I know whats going to happen here. I'm going to end up replacing the whole front end! hahha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 You sure it's a front end wobble, and not a wobble caused by worn rear lower link bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 I wish I could make the sound for you guys... its more of a sound and loose feeling. The truck itself doesn't wobble when I go over the little bumps, its more the steering wheel. It kind of feels like the pass. side front wheel wants to fall off hahaa Morpheus mentioned something about the front strut could be shot? Its hand to tell by pushing down on the front end, if I get it to move at all, it doesn't move enough to recreate the noise. Mostly due to the Lift springs. When I jack it up and shake the tire back and forth something sounds loose, but I can't see what it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 reading more and more your comments and others, I would then say that your wheel bearing on the passenger is probably shot.... I know you like mud a bit....I suspect your bearing is full of it and has started to disintegrate .... it's worth a shot... :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Look at the strut and you will probably be able to see where the oil has come out it will be wet on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Could be the wheel bearings, could be the lower ball joint, could be the tie-rod, or it could be the steering rack bushings. It's easier to have someone move the wheel while you're underneath looking for the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 yeah, I'll do that this week sometime and let you guys know! It doesn't seem to be causing a problem (considering its been going on for about 8 months) but its driving me nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Another thing to check would be the strut mounts. Bounce the truck up and down with the hood up, and look for movement where the strut comes through the wheel well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Another thing to check would be the strut mounts. Bounce the truck up and down with the hood up, and look for movement where the strut comes through the wheel well. That was gonna be y advice. I had something like this and one time the isolator tore off and the other the strut bearing had basically broke to pieces. Also, my strut went bad one time also! I mean, the actual valve inside the strut had broke off, and my shaft was wobbling around. I found this out only after I took the strut off and saw it. Might be it. Jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I had this same problem, it turned out to be my sway bar end links, just replaced them with MOOG links from advanced auto parts and it went away..... word of advice put the new links on with air tools, a ratchet and socket wont do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I had this same problem, it turned out to be my sway bar end links, just replaced them with MOOG links from advanced auto parts and it went away..... word of advice put the new links on with air tools, a ratchet and socket wont do it Yup, I recommend the same advice. Moog makes good links, which are also greaseable (unlike the OEM parts). If it's the steering rack, could it possibly be deteriorated rack bushings? Just a thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyslave Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) Hey guys! I've had this noise/wobble for a while now, could never figure out what it was. Someone told me to take a look at my steering rack bushings, and sure enough they were toast. So I installed new ones and the sound/wobble persists. Its really only on small bumps, like large cracks in the road, or driving through a field. Anyone have any idears? Thanks alot Hey New4x4r Your problem sounds EXACTLY like my problem. Mine has been going on many months also and getting worse. With the addition of larger tires it's now more pronounced. Like your's my sound is front passenger side only. And it's a series or dull/dead thunks when I hit a small bump on the road. Maybe 3-5 thunks in rapid decay like the wheel is shaking. The steering feels tight at the steering wheel, no slop, and today I checked the wheel bearing and retorqued it to spec, that didn't help at all. I did that since it wouldn't require a trip to the store if happened to solve the problem. I suspect it is the tie-rod end or maybe where the tie tod connects to the rack. Because when I grab and shake the passenger tire at 9 & 3 o'clock there is significant play, indicating steering?? If I grab and shake on the Y axis (12 & 6) it's solid, no play. The driver's side is solid on both axes. Tomorrow I think I'll troubleshoot tie-rod end, may end up changing it out. Over the years I've whacked a couple curbs pretty hard with the right passenger side front wheel, so that may have been the cause. Edited March 20, 2010 by sonyslave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 Hey Sonyslave! lemme know if that works... I had a fresh set of eyes look at it and they seem to think its the tie rod end as well. I'm going to grab some next week before I take it in for the alignment. Hopefully all is tight after that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyslave Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 I inspected the inner tie-rod today and it's bad. A couple of youtube videos demonstrate that the inner tie-rod balljoint should hold the tie-rod in place i.e. no droop once you let go of the tie-rod. My balljoint is so loose that the rod is not held in place, furthermore I can see the ball moving in and out a little when I shake the tire, a good joint has zero play. Hopefully this is the only problem. I'll be installing a new inner tie-rod Sat night or Sunday and will let ya know what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyslave Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 New inner tie-rod installed! problem gone! Wish I had done this a year ago as the replacement was quick. If you do it yourself make sure you have the right tool to remove the inner tie-rod I tried to get by without it and couldn't. Steering still gets a little bit of "kick back" when hitting bump/ruts/potholes but not nearly as bad as before. The new bigger tires, 31 10.5 15, probably add to this as there is more mass further out to control. My oil soaked steering rack bushings also probably need replacement and are probably adding to this. Steering is much better now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Although I don't have any play like that in my steering linkage, I may replace the inner tie rod ends on mine as well. I'm going to at least pull back the boot and see if there is anything obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 What is the "right tool" to use for this dude? haha I don't wanna spend 8 hours taking it apart and trying to get the thing back together and find out it was a half hour job with a $20 tool from Princess Auto hahaha (stupid Mazda Brakes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyslave Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Although I don't have any play like that in my steering linkage, I may replace the inner tie rod ends on mine as well. I'm going to at least pull back the boot and see if there is anything obvious. shift220, I recommend leaving the tire on while viewing the inner tie-rod, hold the tire at 3 & 9 o'clock and shake. On mine the inner tie-rod ball joint had enough play the the ball was moving in and out in the socket and I could see this. I recommend leaving the tire on so you have enough leverage. I tired to grab the rotor (with wheel off) and shake but my feeble arms didn't have the strength to move the inner tie-rod ball joint in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyslave Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 (edited) What is the "right tool" to use for this dude? haha I don't wanna spend 8 hours taking it apart and trying to get the thing back together and find out it was a half hour job with a $20 tool from Princess Auto hahaha (stupid Mazda Brakes) This job is very straight forward. One note, the tool I used had 1/2" square drive. You may need a cheater to break it loose. Have some liquid thread lock on hand to do it right. You may want to replace the steering rack dust boot since you'll have everything apart. The tool Checker loaned out was almost exactly like this: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Automotive-Inner-Removal/dp/B00170NVNA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2 Having the right tools makes working on your car enjoyable, vs. busted knuckles and swearing. I used a Moog replacement part, it came with the retaining washer and nut. I recommend you mark the old tie-rod before you unthread it from the tie-rod end so you'll have and easy time setting your alignment. Once removed set the two (new and old) side by side and measure from the rack end and mark the new one. This should be sufficient until you can do a proper alignment. Edited March 25, 2010 by sonyslave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 Ok, I'm changing the Inner/outter tie rods AND my wheel bearings tonight! If this doesn't fix the wobble, there is literally nothing left to change hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 Ok, I'm changing the Inner/outter tie rods AND my wheel bearings tonight! If this doesn't fix the wobble, there is literally nothing left to change hahaha Maybe one..... : THE DRIVER ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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