olddirtyrake Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) Well, I bought a 1995 Nissan pathfinder xe 4wd with 90,000 miles for $800. Mint body nice tires and interior. Was told the only thing wrong with it was the wheel stabilizer(friend sold it to me and he knows nothing about cars). So I got a new one from the jy and fixed it. Well turns out it needed a new head gasket. So I did the head job and timing belt myself(what a pain) and runs like a champ now, besides a little bit of lifter noise. Only problem is I forgot to check the crank seals while I had it torn down. PROBLEM:It mostly leaks oil from the back of the engine (a very slow leak in the front, very minimal),the leak overall is not super bad so I was wondering: -if I keep a good eye on the oil level and fill as needed, could I get by on replacing the crank seals until it needs a new timing belt and manual transmission. When this AT craps out I'm going to put a manual in. I take it that would expose the rear crank seal where its probably leaking? -Is the leak in the rear probably in the rear crank seal, or could it possibly be the oil pan gasket?- (I think it could be either.) -Can a leak damage anything as long as you keep an eye on the fluid? -My Friend says the clutch fan should be spinning faster than it does when you gas it,is there any way to fix it or do I just have to replace it.I live in Duluth, Mn and it gets cold really cold here so maybe I could get by until spring? I would just fix the seals but I'm losing steam with this thing. After fixing head Gasket, timing belt, alternator,(went out as soon as I replaced heads...)stabilizer arm,changing tranny fluid,Oil and oil filter,this thing is starting to become a money pit. Ohh ya Im going to put a AT cooler in too,plus I need a boot repaired...... SOMEONE HELP ME----------U-U--U-U------------ I'M SLIPPING Edited October 29, 2009 by olddirtyrake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Well, first off, check the oil pan bolts. They have a tendency to loosen up just like valve cover bolts. they are only something like 8-12 ft/lbs so just give them a snugging. You have to define the source before you can guess how critical it is. Generally, you should be ok as long as you keep the oil reasonably full, but by principal, I hate people who drive cars around that piss oil. Bad for the environment and makes motorcyclists crash. Yeah, I know not many motorcyclists in MN in the winter, but you get the point. Yes, the fan clutch is a replace item. The good news is that it is easy. In MN in the winter, you may not need it. Watch the temp gauge. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 There is a little shelf like area under the starter that likes to collect oil when you pull the oil filter off. as you drive this will cause the oil to dribble down the back of the engine. Check to make sure there is not oil collecting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 There is a little shelf like area under the starter that likes to collect oil when you pull the oil filter off. as you drive this will cause the oil to dribble down the back of the engine. Check to make sure there is not oil collecting there. Yep, I agree with the above. Also concour with snugging up the oil pan bolts. Check both these out first and see if it fixes the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 You paid $800 for a under 100k miled 4x4 and are upset to be sinking some money in it? Anyway... Definatly check the pan bolts as said, nice cheap fix sometimes. Teritory markers are a little annoying, ask the spot in my lawn that's finally starting to grow back... You sure it's oil on both ends as well? Not a p/s leak up front or anything? Hate to see money get wasted fixing something that wasn't even the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Yeah you can just keep a eye on it and add a bottle of bars stop leak at every oil change.Its really no biggy,mine leaks, and burns oil from valve guides,but when I put the bars in it greatly reduces the burn off and slows the leak(its still there),Some people dont like stop leak and I have to agree,some looks like its made with sand,but the stuff I get looks just like really thick oil and I've never had any trouble with it,but some people really hate it so its up to you.This is if what the others said doesnt fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddirtyrake Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) Well, first off, check the oil pan bolts. They have a tendency to loosen up just like valve cover bolts. I hate people who drive cars around that piss oil. Bad for the environment and makes motorcyclists crash. B I will try snugging the bolts when I get home, that's a great idea. I would just fix the leak (if there still is one after I tighten oil pan bolts) as I hate polluting the environment, but I have very little time lately and its going to get real cold real soon and I don't have a heated garage.So the leak will have to be leaky until summer. Thanks again for the smart thinkin. Yes, the fan clutch is a replace item. ---Cheapest fan clutch I could find was $55, Junk yard said they would give me one for $20. I remember seeing a np there with 100,000k maybe that clutch would be ok, or should I just go new? Edited October 30, 2009 by olddirtyrake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddirtyrake Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 You paid $800 for a under 100k miled 4x4 and are upset to be sinking some money in it? You sure it's oil on both ends as well? Not a p/s leak up front or anything? I will have to double check the fluid leak upfront but I'm about 90% sure its oil, your right though have to be sure before I go turning wrenches. I wouldn't really say I'm upset to be sinking money into it, its just that every time I fix something on it I find out about something else going down hill. Dont get me wrong I know I got a steal of a deal, but between baby, full time job and college, time and money is tight. CANT WAIT TO GET THIS THING TO BE MY DAILY DRIVER,EXCITED!!! and send my pos ford 2wd to the crusher(which also only had 100,000k on it bought for $200 lol)<-- had a whiskey dent on the whole passenger side but mechanically sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olddirtyrake Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Yeah you can just keep a eye on it and add a bottle of bars stop leak at every oil change. May be a stupid question but what is bars? Sounds like a viable option if the tightening of the oil pan bolts doesn't quark the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 I will try snugging the bolts when I get home, that's a great idea. I would just fix the leak (if there still is one after I tighten oil pan bolts) as I hate polluting the environment, but I have very little time lately and its going to get real cold real soon and I don't have a heated garage.So the leak will have to be leaky until summer. Thanks again for the smart thinkin. Yes, the fan clutch is a replace item. ---Cheapest fan clutch I could find was $55, Junk yard said they would give me one for $20. I remember seeing a np there with 100,000k maybe that clutch would be ok, or should I just go new? I understand your situation, I just needed to say my speil... If you can afford it, go new, you never know what you will get from the junk yard, but if you just need something now, it is better than nothing. Are you having a temperature issue?? 1/3-1/2 on the gauge is normal, don't try to judge if the fan speed is 'correct'. May be a stupid question but what is bars? Sounds like a viable option if the tightening of the oil pan bolts doesn't quark the leak. Bars is a brand of stop leak additive and should only be considered as a last choice, IMO. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 I said that B Yeah BAR's STOP LEAK its at every wal-mart I've ever been to,a clear bottle with a black cap and a blue,red and white logo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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