tekazgtr1984 Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Truck looks great! With the 35's how's the get up and go and cruise speed on the highway? Just wondering because I'm debating between 33" or 35" Toyo M/T but I'm on the highway a lot so I don't know if I want to go as big as 35". BTW, how are the custom coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Haven't had the 35's on the hwy.. but I do about 60 on the roads here with them with no problems... pick-up is about the same as it was. I'll know more about my set-up after next weekend, first 4x4 weekend of the year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 (edited) Werd! I'm planning on going with the same coils (coilsprings.com) but with 1.5" + 4" SFD, with a custom set-up for the rear. I want monster flex! I'm hoping to run 33x12.5 tires on a 15x8 wheel with 4" BS. Should that be enough to clear the struts? Edited April 15, 2010 by tekazgtr1984 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 You're going to have rake like a mother effer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 No man, you're gonna want more Backspacing. before I got the SFD I tried my buddies 33's. Not sure what backspacing he has on his wheels, but it wasn't enough to clear the strut. You're gonna want at LEAST 3.75. I'd say even more if you can get it. 3.5 or 3.25 even. I know 3.25 would have been perfect with the 35's. But I'd need some flares to help cover the extra tire sticking out the side hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 Where did you go to get your longer lugs and spacers? Install time? How did you install them? Only on the front and not the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 Longer lugs are from my local speed shop (12mm 1.25 thread pitch, 13mm knurl ,52mm long) I believe they're from Sparco? I had a half inch spacer made out of aluminum. This method is WAY stronger then the adapter method. Obviously a different Back spaced wheel would be stronger, but this way is safe for the abuse I put the truck through. and I'm doing it on the back as well, just to keep the symmetry of the truck the same(not like half an inch is even noticeable). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 Longer lugs are from my local speed shop (12mm 1.25 thread pitch, 13mm knurl ,52mm long) I believe they're from Sparco? I had a half inch spacer made out of aluminum. This method is WAY stronger then the adapter method. Obviously a different Back spaced wheel would be stronger, but this way is safe for the abuse I put the truck through. and I'm doing it on the back as well, just to keep the symmetry of the truck the same(not like half an inch is even noticeable). How hard was it to replace them, what does it involve and how long did it take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted April 17, 2010 Author Share Posted April 17, 2010 I would disagree with the spacer with longer studs being stronger then a bolt on spacer.. but for our purposes, both are very adequate methods of pushing out the wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 You're going to have rake like a mother effer No, I won't. 5.5" lift all around; just the rear is gonna be custom. No man, you're gonna want more Backspacing. before I got the SFD I tried my buddies 33's. Not sure what backspacing he has on his wheels, but it wasn't enough to clear the strut. You're gonna want at LEAST 3.75. I'd say even more if you can get it. 3.5 or 3.25 even. I know 3.25 would have been perfect with the 35's. But I'd need some flares to help cover the extra tire sticking out the side hahaha Okay, I had a feeling 4" BS wouldn't be sufficient. Hard to find a decent 15x8 wheel with 3.25" BS... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Nothing beats steelies! But I've never looked for that BS before, just the 3.75. But I know its out there.... haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Well right now I have 31x10.5 Mud Terrains and they are about 1" away from my struts; I just went out and got 33x13.5 after putting in my SFD and when I test fitted them they were a good 1/2"-1" under my strut so if I bottomed out the strut would hit the tire. So how much of a spacer would I need and do I have to do some more trimming to get these puppies to turn? And with the 31's on the rear I can stuff them all the way into the wheel well no problem, I don't think I can with the 33s because they are to wide.... Plus if I put spacers on the front I am going to do the rear also to keep the simitry even; so that is going to push them out more........ What to do???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 If you're a half inch away from the strut now.. why would you get any closer at any other time? Your wheels don't flex, your spring and strut does. The only movement you should have is your tire distortion where the tire meets the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 The top of the tire will go into the strut if it compresses a little bit; the strut overhangs the tire by 1" so if it was to compress it would go straight into the tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 If the strut tube below the spring perch compresses, you should find some smaller jumps ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 (edited) lol The distance between the lower spring pocket on the strut and the spindle mount is fixed. It will never change. If the tire clears the strut at normal height, it will be the exact same distance at all times during front suspension travel. Edited April 20, 2010 by morpheus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 I've never been good with words Mike, thats why I have buds like you :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Thanks! I didn't replace the links in the back, but I will sometime in the future. The bushings are very soft and I can easily move the bars with my hands. I will probably make some adjustable ones to get the pinion angle back in spec. You will need a new brake line in the back, front ones were ok for 3.5" but no higher. Driveshaft (front and back) are fine at 3.75" lift, no need to extend. I don't have all the information in one file, but I do have some AutoCAD files. Everything you should need is posted up Just thought I'd throw this out there. I had Andrew build a 4" SFD... So does that mean I'll need to get longer brake lines up front as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 Yea well if you remember from earlier, I messed up with my strut spacers and accidentally made them 4"... so I left them like that! Can't complain about the extra lift. But my stock brake lines did work so I should really write no higher then 4". They are extended about as much as I would ever want to see them. With everything bolted up, flexing the suspension etc won't over-extend them, BUT when working on the suspension (such as replacing a CV), it can be very easy to over-extend them. Longer ones provide that nice cushion and at the same time reduce the "cushion" that rubber ones have. I wouldn't say 100% necessary though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new4x4r Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Shift220 is right, no need... but it wouldn't be a bad idea if you did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 (edited) ...With everything bolted up, flexing the suspension etc won't over-extend them, BUT when working on the suspension (such as replacing a CV), it can be very easy to over-extend them. Longer ones provide that nice cushion... This would be my main reason for getting longer ones. I know I like to pull down on my control arm a little to get the strut out or CV axle out, so the brake lines get pulled as well. And then who's to say you're out wheeling one day, the strut mount fails and your wheel comes down because it's in the air, rips the brake line and fluid is everywhere it shouldn't be? OK, so this is a really worst case scenario, but seeing as how my mounts failed me three times in 2 years, not unlikely. Jose Edited April 24, 2010 by 180sx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 I think it would be wise to get some extended SS brake lines for up front. Just for the peace of mind and extra length, it wouldn't be a bad idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Okay yall, so incase some of you didnt hear I finally got all my stuff from alex to do my sfd, including hardware! So im looking to install here probably around memorial day. I have a few questions though 1. Engine lift blocks, I was looking under the pathy last night and saw that the passenger side engine block is easily accesable and will be easy to place the block on, but the drivers side however, I couldnt even find lol. How in gods name did yall manage to find the engine support and manage to get a wrench up there with enough room to work and take off the bolt???? That seems like it will be the biggest hurdle to over come when installing this sfd. 2. Brake Lines- I have a small window of time when I can install the sfd at my buddies house where he has every possible tool imaginable to use, but between now and then i dont have a way to come up with the money to get extended brake lines made. I have the AC lift coils and my sfd is 4in. I dont plan on doing any wheeling between now and then so no real flexing of the axle just street driving. Will it be okay to drive a bit before I get a extended line? Or is a must have? Can I just simply take another stock line and attach it to make it longer? Im a newb with brake stuff lol. 3. While lowering the sub frame did yall just put a jack under the oil pan and support that while you drop the rest down with another jack? Or did you take out the front axle? Whats the best way to attack it? Thanks for all the help and hopefully answers guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 (edited) Okay yall, so incase some of you didnt hear I finally got all my stuff from alex to do my sfd, including hardware! So im looking to install here probably around memorial day. I have a few questions though 1. Engine lift blocks, I was looking under the pathy last night and saw that the passenger side engine block is easily accesable and will be easy to place the block on, but the drivers side however, I couldnt even find lol. How in gods name did yall manage to find the engine support and manage to get a wrench up there with enough room to work and take off the bolt???? That seems like it will be the biggest hurdle to over come when installing this sfd. In order to get to the engine mounts you have to take the front diff completely out, unbolt the driveshaft, cv axles, and put a jack underneath the hogs head and unbolt the axle itself then drop it down; dont forget to pull the breather tube which you will also need to extend. 2. Brake Lines- I have a small window of time when I can install the sfd at my buddies house where he has every possible tool imaginable to use, but between now and then i dont have a way to come up with the money to get extended brake lines made. I have the AC lift coils and my sfd is 4in. I dont plan on doing any wheeling between now and then so no real flexing of the axle just street driving. Will it be okay to drive a bit before I get a extended line? Or is a must have? Can I just simply take another stock line and attach it to make it longer? Im a newb with brake stuff lol. If you know what you are doing it should take a half day to install the SFD which is what it took me, but i am pretty mechanically inclined.... The front brake lines you should be ok with leaving stock like i did but would recommend changing eventually, the rear line will have to be extended the stock line is not long enough. also don't forget to extend the rear diff breather tube. Don't try to rig brake lines, it is a very important system in vehicles and should be taken seriously. 3. While lowering the sub frame did yall just put a jack under the oil pan and support that while you drop the rest down with another jack? Or did you take out the front axle? Whats the best way to attack it? I took a small 3 ton jack and a block of wood and slightly jacked up the motor about 1/2 a inch after i unbolted the engine mounts then let it sit while i did the rest of the work. YOU DO NOT WANT THE MOTOR TO MOVE MORE THAN A INCH UP OR DOWN doing more than a inch will damage it. Thanks for all the help and hopefully answers guys! Edited May 16, 2010 by muddfildvaynes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Thanks for the info! Was going to try and leave the front diff in, but it looks as if there is no way around it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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