Brakes and CV shaft

[radex7]

Hi, I have a 1996 Pathfinder that refused to brake in a timely manner. Whenever I pressed the brake pedal all the way down it seemed that car kept rolling longer then usual. Since it isn't my daily driver I just let it sit, but now I decided to take matters into my own hands. Besides braking issues all I know is that my rotors were not good (according to my previous mechanic). Jumped the gun (common in my case) I took the rotors off, had them resurfaced, reinstalled seals and repacked bearings (pretty good deal for $30.00 don't you think?) but now I am wondering.

 

Since I have done that much already should I tackle calipers as well? Thing is that I had it for several (10?) years and I do not remember doing anything to calipers. I spent already some time googling stuff, but it is just getting overwhelming so here I am. How can I find out if my calipers need replacement/service?

I am trying not to spend too much so I am looking at caliper kits, such as this one: Beck Arnley 071-7948 Caliper Kit. Rebuild calipers are 60.00 each so the difference is substantial, besides this is not the only thing I am working on...

Where can I find a tutorial on rebuilding calipers. Youtube has only single piston for ford...?

 

Now, after pulling rotor off I noticed that my CV boot was torn. As I said early, this isn't my daily so I wasn't in tune with car anymore... But do not recall any ticking or other cv shaft symptoms. My question is of a financial nature again... Replacement rebuilt shaft ~ $60.00 vs. boot kit $15.00. Any suggestions/experiences in this department?

 

The future and side projects:

1. If the front brake job, with or without caliper servicing doesn't do the trick, I will move to the rear... but this I will prob. leave to specialists as it is trickier (based on number of pages in manual)...

 

2. I am currently waiting for driver side exhaust manifold... obvious reasons. I swapped pass. side a few years ago, but both of them were cracked. Luckily my studs were fine!!!

 

3. Tuneup, finally! Another neglected aspect of vehicle ownership.

 

4. Front end bumper realignment and fender job. Some dumb-ass backed into me and didn't even leave "I am sorry note".

 

 

What a great way to spend vacation!

 

Gentlemen, Ladies, thank you for taking time to read this rather lengthy post. I appreciate your input about brakes and cv boot, and I will respond to everything promptly. Have a great weekend. Radek

Edited July 31, 2009 by radex7

[alexrex20]

a caliper rebuild is pretty straightforward. it should be pretty much the same as the single-piston ford you found the how-to on. it only gets tricky when you have fixed calipers (ours are floating), or on rear calipers with integral manual parking brakes.

 

but why do you want to rebuild your calipers? if it ain't broke, don't fix it! heck, don't even replace them. if it were me, i'd get the remanufactured calipers instead of a rebuild kit. they're only $24/ea more than the rebuild kit. that's not a lot of money considering the time and effort required to rebuild a 2-piston brake caliper.

 

don't be discouraged when it comes to rear drums. just remember how everything came apart, and it will go right back together. it's very straightforward, and obvious when you didn't do it right. a good way to help yourself is to take pictures of the setup before you start, or to label the components as you disassemble.

 

 

unless you know for sure the CV axle is still in good shape, i wouldn't bother with the boot replacement. you're doing the same amount of work to install the boot, as with an entire axle replacement. i say spend the extra $45, get the lifetime warranty, and replace the entire axle. it's just as easy, if not easier, because you don't have to deal with all the axle grease.

[Simon]

For drums, take off both wheels, and both drums, but only disassemble 1 side at a time, so you can use the other for reference. Once you're 100% sure you got the first side reassembled correctly, then work on the other.

[fleurys]

For drums, take off both wheels, and both drums, but only disassemble 1 side at a time, so you can use the other for reference. Once you're 100% sure you got the first side reassembled correctly, then work on the other.

[GoPathyGo]

I would suggest reman CV. Not worth the trouble to pack the grease.

 

If swapping the brake components and bleeding the system don't work, check the vacuum. I've lost vacuum thanks to crummy intake manifold sealing (stealership left bolts out) and the valve cover issue. You can check the vacuum indirectly (pedal pump test with engine off and engine on) and directly (pull the intake-brake booster hose off at the engine intake end and check that the vacuum levels are between 15 and 25).

[radex7]

... if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

It is against my nature, but you are right.

 

My SECOND post! I remembered that the local junk yard has a pathfinder on site. I will check in with them about the CV shaft. It might be worth the hassle...

[GrimGreg]

Swapping a boot is easy. Getting the CV off and on the truck is the "hard" part.

[radex7]

Swapping a boot is easy. Getting the CV off and on the truck is the "hard" part.

 

 

Wasn't too bad. I used a jack under the axle flange to pop it off, it was seized up there. Honestly I think I had more problems with axles on my civic. But I guess I didn't get to the part when I have to put it all together ;-)

[radex7]

Progress so far:

 

Axle replacement already in. Front suspension components are back in place. Now is the time to reinstall the hubs.

 

I have a question for you. This torquing and preloading the bearing on front hubs is bit confusing, can someone lay it out for me in simple terms, please? Is there an easier way of figuring it out? Would any of you happen to have a picture taken during the "brake job"? I am interested in seeing how much of axle is sticking out, and how far the lock nut is screwed in. It seemed that mine did not go too far, and I used the entire hub to screw it in (I do not have the "tool" yet, but I am thinking about making one).

 

You know what? I will just take a picture of my efforts and show it too you so you can maybe comment on that as well.

Will be right back.

[radex7]

Here are the pictures:

So, longer arrow 1.5" that's the distance between the face of an axle and the tip of spindle.

Shorter arrow 1/8" that's the distance between the tip of spindle and the face of locking nut.

 

 

 

[radex7]

Any ideas, anyone?

[Precise1]

Sorry, I have a WD21. Never worked on a R50...

 

I'll move this to that section, someone should chime in soon.

 

B

[alexrex20]

as long as there is no side-to-side axial end play, then you tightened it enough.

 

you're supposed to torque the lock nut to like 100lb-ft. i use a brass punch and hammer, but you can just as easily use a screwdriver and hammer; just estimate 100lb-ft as "pretty tight." lol

 

once you tighten the locknut, you rotate the wheel 2 complete revolutions in both directions. (at this point, all the work can be done with the wheel installed.)

 

verify the locknut is still tight, and rotate the wheel again.

 

now verify that there is no axial end play, and loosen the locknut all the way, and then tighten it to hand tight. use your specialty tool (screwdriver and hammer) to carefully tighten the locknut so that the screw holes line up.

 

you don't want to overtighten because it can result in premature bearing failure/wear due to excessive heat buildup.

 

secure the locknut with the 2 screws and again rotate the wheel in both directions, and again verify that there is no axial end play.

 

grab the tire on the left and right, and try to pull out on it. there should be no play. if you grab the bottom of the tire, and pull upward, it's ok to feel a very slight clunk. this amount of play is ok and required for the tapered roller bearings to do their job.

 

the axle is free to move in and out of the hub, so those measurements are moot. just make sure there is no end play, make sure you didn't overtighten the locknut, and make sure you reinstalled the retaining clip on the axle.

[fleurys]

my opinion....get the tool or make one and torque it to spec... you'll save yourself money (because of premature failure $ andyou'll sleep better). Do it once, do it good...

[alexrex20]

the final torque spec is 4.3-13.0 in-lb, which is barely hand tight.

[radex7]

My "specialty tool" was a pair of needle nose pliers. I tightened the nut as much as I could at first, then I started backing it out just a little so not to create any freeplay in my hub (I kinda rocked it from side to side), then I just tightened it only a bit so the holes in washer lined up with the nut. At this point I called it good.

 

the final torque spec is 4.3-13.0 in-lb, which is barely hand tight.

 

That's what I thought, and I figured that with my "backing out method" I got it sufficiently close.

 

I attempted to check for axle movement, but I only had a micro-caliper on hand which returned 0.3mm, which was well within specs, and the circlip barely clicked into its grove.

 

Do you guys think I am on the right track? Thank you for your responses. Although I do have service manual downloaded, terminology there is somewhat different, and I did have a difficulty with following their instructions, so I really appreciate your help.

[radex7]

Little update.

Before I completed the brake job, I reinstalled my pass. side cv shaft. I did that with new seals, repacked bearings, I even tried to make myself the tool for the locknut (3" x 1/4" bolts from Ace Hardware have tendency to bend and snap before I even got to the first torque (58 ft-lb), next time I will come up with something sturdier). Overall I am satisfied with the outcome with one exception that I need your advice on...

 

After putting the wheel back on I noticed a bit of wobble in a wheel, a really small amount. It happens only when I grab the wheel from the top and bottom and wobble it like that. Side to side seems to be ok. Does anyone have an idea what usually causes that type of play? Thank you.

r

[tmorgan4]

My guess would be the lower balljoint.

[01silvapathy]

When yall get into all this detail about play and torque and all that jazz, kinda makes me hesitant about replacing my CV

[94extreme]

alex is right on with his "technique" here. that's pretty much how all cars work. i've never bought any special tools.

[radex7]

... if you grab the bottom of the tire, and pull upward, it's ok to feel a very slight clunk. this amount of play is ok and required for the tapered roller bearings to do their job...

Alex, I am not sure how I missed that, maybe because I was changing fuel filter at the same time and was bit fumigated... but that "clunk" fits the picture. My balljont felt solid, i.e. not too stiff, but not torn either. Unfortunately, with the cv boot torn and grease splashed everywhere, I couldn't tell if it leaked or not.

 

When yall get into all this detail about play and torque and all that jazz, kinda makes me hesitant about replacing my CV

 

You know, it is not as bad as it sounds. Actually, my other car is 1988 civic, and I swear it was more difficult to do it there. I thing the problem with many self-taught weekend mechanics, is that we lack experience, for once, but with that we also lack good judgment, and the concept of something "feeling right" is bit abstract. Similarly, when it comes to fine tuning things - second guessing yourself - there is no end to that in my case... On the other hand I think about how many mechanics that I've seen working, ever used a pull scale to check the wheel spin force, and did the math on top of it... ! So it can't be that bad.

 

Thank you, guys. Will keep you posted.

[BowTied]

I thing the problem with many self-taught weekend mechanics, is that we lack experience, for once, but with that we also lack good judgment, and the concept of something "feeling right" is bit abstract.

 

As the saying goes: "Good judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

 

Keep on working away at it, every job we learn something for the next time...

[radex7]

So close, yet so far...

 

Really I was so close to wrap this up, get it out of the garage, and hopefully visit my friends who are hiking PCT near by. But no, another issue emerged. The replacement exhaust manifold that I just mounted came pre-drilled for both EGR tube and the oxygen sensor. When I got to screwing in the oxygen sensor I found out that the opening is waaay bigger than the original one. What were they thinking? SO I am stuck, again, waiting for the adapter nut to arrive. My vacation is almost over, but my project is not quite completed... Just rumbling due to frustration.