blackspawn Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 Wanna change mine too; but its intimidating. Time for it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 Wanna change mine too; but its intimidating. Time for it!!! Do you have an Automatic Transmission Cooler on your machine ? If we have to remove the Radiator, it would seem a good time to add that cooler... Most of the stuff removed would facilitate putting the cooler on. It would allow your AT to last longer. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 I don't see one. I see the radiator and the a/c condensor. Where is the a/t cooler located? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 The stock A/T cooler is inside the rad. If you don't have an aftermarket cooler, get one. The stock ones clog up, and lead to tranny failure. Bypass the stock cooler when installing the aftermarket one, or you won't have alleviated the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackspawn Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Ok, thanks Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 (edited) A few points I need cleared up before I tear into my '95 NP to change the Timing Belt. A Nissan 'Kit" arrives tomorrow - the whole Ball of Wax. The Chilton says things that need to be done during the TB change. 1. It says to remove the plugs and rotate the engine to TDC - compression stroke on number one. How am I supposed to know which stroke the engine is set for when Number One is TDC ? Could be Compression could be the exhaust stroke ! 2. Then it says to line up the Camshaft Pulleys to the marks and the Crank Pulley to the mark. Do I have my head up my butt, or are statements 1 and 2 contradictory ? 3. Once the TB is off, do the Cam Pulleys tend to want to rotate to some position where all the valve springs are untensioned ? Is there some way to immobilize the camshafts from moving after the TB is off ? I read that in some engines, there is a 'special tool' to pin the camshaft once you start the job. 4. Does the engine turn easily once the spark plugs are out ? 5. If the Center Cam reduction gear is turned left, does the idler doubling gear turn with it - or does it turn right (clockwise) ? Or is it disconnected when the intercribulator is despangled ? Thanks for the help. DoctorBill Edited July 15, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 A few points I need cleared up before I tear into my '95 NP to change the Timing Belt. A Nissan 'Kit" arrives tomorrow - the whole Ball of Wax. The Chilton says things that need to be done during the TB change. 1. It says to remove the plugs and rotate the engine to TDC - compression stroke on number one. How am I supposed to know which stroke the engine is set for when Number One is TDC ? One of the easiest ways is to pop the distributer cap and look at the rotor as you crank it by hand to set the piston to TDC. At the same time, pull plug 1 and insert a long screwdriver (carefully) so you can watch the piston rise and fall as you hand crank the engine. What I would recommend is that you start stripping into it to get to the timing belt and don't worry about setting TDC until you get the top timing cover off. At that point, you can use the cam markings as reference as well and do both steps at once. As long as you don't pull the belt yet, there should be no issue getting it set to TDC. There are some people who do not even set to TDC. They simply place marks on teh rear cover and the cams and count belt teeth to make sure the spacing is correct but I do not recommend that to first timers. Could be Compression could be the exhaust stroke ! 2. Then it says to line up the Camshaft Pulleys to the marks and the Crank Pulley to the mark. Do I have my head up my butt, or are statements 1 and 2 contradictory ? no. tehy are not contradictory. When at TDC, the cam marks and the crank marks should line up to their respective indicators. Problem is that sometimes the indicators are difficult to see (a dimple on the rear cover). Get as close to TDC as you can, set your cam marks to 1:00 on the right and 11:00 on the left (approximate). Put your own marks (white out, paint, etc) on the back cover so you know where things go just in case the cams decide to slip to a more stable location. Also, mark your old belt and compare against any markings on your new belt. Usually the t-belts have lines on them but my last 2 had arrows going the wrong direction and the lines were not quite right. Once youa re at TDC and pull the balancer and the lower cover, it is easy to put the new belt up against the old while it is still on and check for alignment. 3. Once the TB is off, do the Cam Pulleys tend to want to rotate to some position where all the valve springs are untensioned ? Is there some way to immobilize the camshafts from moving after the TB is off ? I read that in some engines, there is a 'special tool' to pin the camshaft once you start the job. They will if you screw around with them but TDC is relatively stable. Using marks and counting the teeth upon installation is your best bet to make sure things didn't slip unexpectedly. Also, once you pluu the old eblt, you will be putting the new one on shortly so you will see of the cams move at all 4. Does the engine turn easily once the spark plugs are out ? yes. Once you have the accessory belts off and the plugs out, you should be able to easily turn the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt. A little trick to loosen the bolt holding on the harmonic balancer if you don't have a special tool to hold it... put a socket or wrench on the bolt (28mm?... I forget) and a pipe or something over the wrench. You could also use a jack to hold the end of the wrench. Position the wrench so it extends towards the drivers side and get it caught on either the frame, ground ro a jack. Basically, you are going to keep the wrench from turning clockwise (as you look at the engine). Disconnect your coil (for safety) and turn your key to start for a second or two. This will use the torque of the starter to turn the engine and the wrench being held will break loose the bolt. Don't worry about TDC because you will not have played that game yet. Get the bolt loose and even if you need to use use it to turn the engine by hand, it won't be nearly as tight and you should be able to loosen it again by clampign the t-belt or holdign the HB with a strap wrench (or put a screwdriver through the cam hole and brace that way. This is one reason I never care about TDC and just mark things before I pull the belt. That way, it doesn't matter fi I'm off TDC when I break the bolt loose. 5. If the Center Cam reduction gear is turned left, does the idler doubling gear turn with it - or doesit turn right (clockwise) ? Or is it disconnected when the intercribulator is despangled ? was that English? Sorry... not catching the question and you may be thinking too much for a fairly straightforward repair Thanks for the help. DoctorBill this may help as well Service Manual The 94 is sufficient for this job. No many changes were rolled out for the 95 but I have the 94 update and 95 suppliment if you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 5. If the Center Cam reduction gear is turned left, does the idler doubling gear turn with it - or doesit turn right (clockwise) ? Or is it disconnected when the intercribulator is despangled ? Yes, of course. Just be sure to despangle first... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 I had ordered a Nissan Timing Belt "Bundle" from CourtesyParts.com online for $263 plus $17 UPS Ground. Received the package 7 days later. Here are the components in the bundle package - all Nissan parts. Interesting - the V6 runs at 169° F - rather cool compared to other vehicles - GOOD ! Easier on everything.... I will soon be tearing into my '95 EX-V6 4x4 to replace thet thar Timin' Belt thingie... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 you might consider not trying to take the tensioner stud out. It's put in with threadlock and it's a bitch to remove (expecially after it's broken off). If you want to remove it, torch the block around the threads to burn the threadlock and release the stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) you might consider not trying to take the tensioner stud out. It's put in with threadlock and it's a bitch to remove (expecially after it's broken off). If you want to remove it, torch the block around the threads to burn the threadlock and release the stud. I am wondering why you would want to replace that stud (bolt) in any case ? The sideways force on that 3/8 inch hardened (#8) bolt cannot be enough to make it break...can it? It doesn't get hot - it isn't a bearing surface. Has ANYONE ever had that Tensioner Stud Bolt break while the engine was running ? - ever heard of such a thing !? And I don't mean while trying to remove it - I mean breaking under use holding the tensioner pulley in place. If they threadlock it in - then they must be confident that it won't fail.... I think I will leave well enough alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it... DoctorBill PS - Hey folks! Cold Fusion is baaack..... http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/04/17/...in4952167.shtml If this is actually true, I hope Fleischman & Pons get the Nobel Prize and their persecutors are made to eat dirt ! Edited July 16, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 funny you should ask... link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 funny you should ask... link Holy boltcrap, Batman ! The Tensioner Stud Bolt can break off...! My God - then why does Nissan Threadlock the bolt in there !? Or why not use a thicker bolt ? Maybe a 1/2 inch hardened bolt.... Ok.... If I flame the stud with a propane torch, would that melt out the Threadlock ? Maybe apply some acetone to the threads prior to attempting to remove it ? And yes, the threads are different on each end of the stud... Could I buy a replacement bolt made of better metal ? Neutronium...hello Scottie ! Beam me up ! I am now looking forward to removing that bolt...this made my day.... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) One word of advice.If you live in a cold climate like I do...do not install a aftermarket tranny cooler since the fluid will thicken up and cause the tranny to burn up since the factory cooler was placed in the rad to heat the fluid on extremly cold days.I have not seen a good tranny in a junk yard in my area with a after market cooler because of this.But then again most of those coolers where placed on the front of the rad.I dont no if they can be placed any place esle then this but it seems like a really bad idea.Having Ice cold air blow on to a cooler that is working to cool the Atf fluid.If you decide to install the cooler any way I would at least put a piece of card board in front of it in the winter months. Also since you get a lot of snow in your area then why not get a small plow(plows for RTV's work nicly since there not as heavy as others) I am having one made with out the hydros so it mounts to a receiver style hitch on the front. Also since your in wastington where I dont think they salt the roads in winter then I dought you will have any frame rust issues unless the truck came from a diffrent area. And yes the pathy will work really well in snow.I live in MN and we get our fair sare of the stuff and I rarely ever have to ingauge Four wheel drive even when theres a foot+ on the roads.Also bewarned that even if the manuel says its shift on the fly 4 wheel drive I have tryed this and it will only produce loud noises and reduce T-case life. Also since the prevics owner did not keep records I would change the t-case/diff(rear at least) and tranny fluid and filter.And Dex 3 is fine for the tranny you dont have to go out and get the nissan factory stuff. And if you have a LSD you are made for the winter since this works awsome in the snow for traction. And I have gotten 23 mpg before and my truck has the 4.60 rear diff gears. My last outing I got 22 mpg going 65mph with a 5w-20 oil and I had about 300 hundred pounds of stuff in the back,I had taken my K&N filter out and installed a newer(still for the same truck) Fram air filter so 20+ mpg can be done. Have fun with your truck,treat it right and it will last a long time. Edited July 16, 2009 by nismothunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I wholeheartedly disagree with Nismothunder on the cooler. I'm in Canada, -20 degrees in the winter no problems with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I had ordered a Nissan Timing Belt "Bundle" from CourtesyParts.com online for $263 plus $17 UPS Ground. Received the package 7 days later. Here are the components in the bundle package - all Nissan parts. Interesting - the V6 runs at 169° F - rather cool compared to other vehicles - GOOD ! Easier on everything.... I will soon be tearing into my '95 EX-V6 4x4 to replace thet thar Timin' Belt thingie... DoctorBill One thing I don't see present is the coolant bypass hose. It is highly recommended to replace this at the same time... If you live in a cold climate like I do...do not install a aftermarket tranny cooler since the fluid will thicken up and cause the tranny to burn up Solution: Move... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 (edited) I used a MAPP torch on my old engine to remove the tensioner stud. It takes awhile to get the thing hot enough to burn the threadlock (you are fighting with the entire block trying to cool the area). Red-hot would be best (or at least glowing real good). You can heat it, try to remove it, heat it hotter, try again... etc until you get it. I worried about getting my water pump too hot since it is aluminum and I didn't want to melt it (not sure if I could but I shielded it so I didn't take the chance. You may want to do this with the WP removed. You will probably need a stud-puller. Even with the threadlock torched, it was still gooey and trying to hang on as I removed it. I wouldn't trust the 2-nut method. I tried that first and ripped the threads off the stud. Sicne it is throw-away, you could flat-spot alternate sides of the shaft and get a wrench on it. That would probaly work even better than the stud puller. I did not use this option since I had planned to use the one from my old engine as a replacement. As for a different stud... You saw my solution. You could do the same but use a bolt with the right thread pitch for the block. (a class 8.8 M10x1.5 hex head bolt with a lock washer) Edited July 17, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 I wholeheartedly disagree with Nismothunder on the cooler. I'm in Canada, -20 degrees in the winter no problems with mine. Do you place card board in front of it or let the engine warm up good. I let my engine warm up and place a piece of card board(not for coldness but incase a car throws a chunk of ice up at the rad. I believe you on the cooler but I have seen 2 pathfinders and a hardbody burn up there tranny because of this.Two of them where the same night(-35+wind chill) and one of the coolers had exspanded and cracked,the other had siply pluged with fliud.The other case was a 93 model that had happen during the day and I believe that was the reason the tranny burned up...but the guy that it happened to had said he didnt let it warm up after sitting for two weeks. I'm sure its not a major problem with most owners or there would probly be something on this sit about it but it still has been known to happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 (edited) This shows my level of inexperience... I took the grill and bumper off my Pathfinder in order to remove the Radiator, thinking that I could then work on the Timing Belt sitting on a stool in front of the vehicle.... What an ass ! So what am I looking at - a radiator. The Air Conditioner Radiator. Can't be removed w/o releasing the old type Freon - which is illegal - and paying gozillions of $ getting it upgraded and refilled. So....here I am...I'm going to have to change the Timing Belt leaning over the front of the vehicle or laying on my back again. Sh*t ! Now comes draining and removing the Radiator for no other damned reason but to give me a couple more inches of room to stoop over and work behind the AC Radiator....or lay on my freaking back as per usual. Sh*t ! I hate automobiles ! DoctorBill Edited July 19, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Actually the 95's use the newer r134a refrigerant. But I wouldn't release it anyways, because a/c is nice when it works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Yes Doctor Bill, that about sums it up. Allow me to point out a few things though... You won't have to do this again for a long time. You now know how to remove the bumper and grill since you removed them for no reason. You will experience the joy of re-installing parts unnecessarily. Don't feel alone... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 I am going to install the AT Cooler after the TB is done, so I guess it wasn't for nothing. I was so looking forward to working on the TB in a nice reasonable manner. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) Mystery Grounding Strap Preparing to replace the Timing Belt - While I was enjoying draining the Radiator after unscrewing the shroud, I noticed above my head on the front left side of the Frame near where the frame curves down, a grounding strap was just hanging there with a screw in the end "ring tongue" - not screwed into the hole in the frame! It has the look of NEVER having been screwed in - since the screw will not go into the hole. The screw is too big for the hole right there beside the strap. I took the screw out - has a "7" on the head of the screw/bolt. I wonder if this has been hanging there since 1995 right from the factory ?! I looked in the Chilton Manual and see nothing about a grounding strap. Does anyone have any idea of what this grounding strap goes to - I cannot see it from the top side ? I wanted to tap the hole (is everything on a Pathfinder metric?), but no room to start a tap up in there, so I will use a selftapping screw and hook it up - but I would like to know what it goes to.... DoctorBill Edited July 20, 2009 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Do you place card board in front of it or let the engine warm up good.I let my engine warm up and place a piece of card board(not for coldness but incase a car throws a chunk of ice up at the rad. I believe you on the cooler but I have seen 2 pathfinders and a hardbody burn up there tranny because of this.Two of them where the same night(-35+wind chill) and one of the coolers had exspanded and cracked,the other had siply pluged with fliud.The other case was a 93 model that had happen during the day and I believe that was the reason the tranny burned up...but the guy that it happened to had said he didnt let it warm up after sitting for two weeks. I'm sure its not a major problem with most owners or there would probly be something on this sit about it but it still has been known to happen. No cardboard, no problems. I only idle my truck, at most, for 30 seconds before driving. Idling doesn't warm it up quick enough, and idling to warm up a fuel injected vehicle is not a great idea. I have good heat about 2 minutes down the road. Sounds to me like they were due to lack of maintenance (dirty fluid/clogged coolers) more than temps. A cracked tranny cooler will obviously cause tranny failure, as it'll run dry. The other may have been partially clogged before the fluid thickened up due to temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Mystery Grounding Strap Preparing to replace the Timing Belt - While I was enjoying draining the Radiator after unscrewing the shroud, I noticed above my head on the front left side of the Frame near where the frame curves down, a grounding strap was just hanging there with a screw in the end "ring tongue" - not screwed into the hole in the frame! It has the look of NEVER having been screwed in - since the screw will not go into the hole. The screw is too big for the hole right there beside the strap. I took the screw out - has a "7" on the head of the screw/bolt. I wonder if this has been hanging there since 1995 right from the factory ?! I looked in the Chilton Manual and see nothing about a grounding strap. Does anyone have any idea of what this grounding strap goes to - I cannot see it from the top side ? I will use a selftapping screw and hook it up - but I would like to know what it goes to.... DoctorBill Not sure exactly where that would have come from, but I'd find a place on the frame (the hole you pictured is as good as any) and attach it. It's a ground strap, so you can't be hurting anything by doing that, even if it's not the "right" place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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