MJBBMANO Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I went to get a wheel alignment and was told my Rack & Pinion needs to be replaced ($866.81). I was also told radiator is leaking from the top corner and needs to be replaced. I was hearing a bad sound when I would turn the A/C on so I had them check. I was told that I need a new A/C Compressor, Receiver Drier, A/C Expansion Valve & Evac & Recharge for a total of $1,122.92. Does anyone know where I can get these parts for a good price? This mechanic charges $89 per hour labor cost. I found a shop that will only charge me $39 per hour labor cost if I bring the parts. I was at the point of getting rid of the truck since its value is only $3000, but if I can get it all done for a good price I think it might be worth fixing. Does anyone know where I can get these parts for a good price? Pathfinder LE 1997 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I went to get a wheel alignment and was told my Rack & Pinion needs to be replaced ($866.81). I was also told radiator is leaking from the top corner and needs to be replaced. I was hearing a bad sound when I would turn the A/C on so I had them check. I was told that I need a new A/C Compressor, Receiver Drier, A/C Expansion Valve & Evac & Recharge for a total of $1,122.92. Does anyone know where I can get these parts for a good price? This mechanic charges $89 per hour labor cost. I found a shop that will only charge me $39 per hour labor cost if I bring the parts. I was at the point of getting rid of the truck since its value is only $3000, but if I can get it all done for a good price I think it might be worth fixing. Does anyone know where I can get these parts for a good price? Pathfinder LE 1997 They went from radiator to A/C to rack and pinion ? Surprised to hear the entire Rack & Pinion is going. Did they say specific parts needed to be replaced or the whole thing ? Given a bill that size, I'd get a second opinion from another shop, at least... Cheapest parts will be a local junk/salvage yard. Typically, the "you pull it off the car, you pay for it" places are cheapest, then junk/salvage yards where they pull the parts. Also check eBay. But would definitely suggest getting a 2nd opinion. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 x2 on the R&P. Ask them what's wrong with it. Definitely get a second opinion. Radiator: try local auto parts stores. Kragen, Checker Schucks, Autozone, etc. should have it for a hundred and change. A/C compressor: junkyard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcano Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Sound like they are trying to get you. ¿Are you loosing lots of coolant or steering fluid? ¿Is your steering hard, or does it make noises when you turn? ¿Is the AC blowing cold air? My '98 has been making a strange, clicking sound whenever the AC is on for over two years now. When it first started, two different shops told me the compressor was shot, and that I should replace it right away. I told them I would replace it when it stopped working. It’s still going strong two years latter, and all I have done is change the gas and add oil to the system twice a year to make sure it's pressurized and lubricated properly, for about $25 a pop. The truck was also leaking steering fluid, and the first shop I took it to told me that the whole R&P had to be replaced. I took it to the dealer, and they confirmed some of the R&P seals were leaking a bit, but the main leak was at the high pressure line, which they replaced for around $100. I am still loosing some fluid, but very slowly, and as long as I check it once a month and top it off it has not been a problem. Just in case, a few months ago I got a R&P rebuild kit for about $70, which includes all the parts needed to completely rebuild the R&P, but I understand it's a pretty complicated job, so I am waiting for the leak to get worst before I have it taken apart. Regarding the radiator, mine also starting leaking from the top about a year ago, and it did have to be replaced. I got one for about $139 if I remember correctly (made in china) and put it in myself. If I were you I would take it one issue at a time. I would focus on the radiator first, since that can damage your engine if you don't watch it, and if it's really leaking it will probably get worst fast. The AC and R&P can be monitored closely, and you don't risk so much by putting it off. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fukinitupagain Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Holy hell, they have greased you up & aimed for penetration my friend. If you do need all of those parts (the rack & pinion, really?... I think I smell Bullsh!t) check eBay for the compressor (you can get a nice rebuilt one for cheap just watch price on shipping) or the JY. Both options the same for the radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Sound like they are trying to get you. ¿Are you loosing lots of coolant or steering fluid? ¿Is your steering hard, or does it make noises when you turn? ¿Is the AC blowing cold air? My '98 has been making a strange, clicking sound whenever the AC is on for over two years now. When it first started, two different shops told me the compressor was shot, and that I should replace it right away. I told them I would replace it when it stopped working. It’s still going strong two years latter, and all I have done is change the gas and add oil to the system twice a year to make sure it's pressurized and lubricated properly, for about $25 a pop. I think my dads r50 does this too. It kinda sounds like a small air compressor running. Also will click really loud when you turn it off sometime. The a/c is still nice and cold though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I think my dads r50 does this too. It kinda sounds like a small air compressor running. Also will click really loud when you turn it off sometime. The a/c is still nice and cold though... I've owned my '98 for over a year now and have yet to experience any of the previously mentioned sounds related to the A/C compressor... I am definitely going to keep an ear open more diligently next time I run the A/C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 My AC compressor clicked loudly for 4 years before it seized up. My new one clicks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fukinitupagain Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Hell I'm using the same compressor from my original engine (that I sank & destroyed), swapped it over to the next engine & it still works flawlessly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 Hell I'm using the same compressor from my original engine (that I sank & destroyed), swapped it over to the next engine & it still works flawlessly Thank you all for your replies. What actually happen was that I went to get an alignment because my steering wheel was off center. They corrected the alignment and when he test drove it he noticed the steering wheel was still off. It was not pulling to one side at all. If I drive down the street the steering wheel is straight. Once I make a left or right it goes off center. When I make another turn its centered again. I went to a different shop today and was also told the R & P needs to be replaced. It shakes when you turn the wheel. They lifted the truck and I saw what they meant. 2nd shop price = $731.51 I requested for the shop to take a look at my A/C because it has been making a loud rattling sound when its turned on for almost a year and a 1/2. It has cold air coming out , but it takes about 10 min for the cold air to kick in. Sometimes I have to press the A/C button on & off a few times for it to work. I was told it was the compressor and if I don't replace it and it breaks my belts will snap and the fan will stop spinning. I took it today to another shop and was told the same thing. The cost at the 2nd shop was $718.71. The first shop wanted $1,122. The radiator is not a big issue yet the 2nd shop said. He did say the compressor should be done first. If I buy the parts the 2nd shop will charge me $39.00 per hour labor cost. I will be going to a 3rd shop tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I'm not sure if your 97 is the same as my 95, but the a/c and fan belt are separate. I have had my a/c belt break once, and the fan still spun fine. In fact I drove it like that for 2 months since it happened in the winter and I didn't need the a/c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Thank you all for your replies. What actually happen was that I went to get an alignment because my steering wheel was off center. They corrected the alignment and when he test drove it he noticed the steering wheel was still off. It was not pulling to one side at all. If I drive down the street the steering wheel is straight. Once I make a left or right it goes off center. When I make another turn its centered again. I went to a different shop today and was also told the R & P needs to be replaced. It shakes when you turn the wheel. They lifted the truck and I saw what they meant. I will be going to a 3rd shop tomorrow. Did you see if the entire rack was moving back and forth? If so, this is NOT due to a problem with the steering rack, it's due to rotted out rubber bushings securing the steering rack to the subframe. Just buy new bushings (likely under $50) to replace the rotted ones, and the steering rack will not move back and forth anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Did you see if the entire rack was moving back and forth? If so, this is NOT due to a problem with the steering rack, it's due to rotted out rubber bushings securing the steering rack to the subframe. Just buy new bushings (likely under $50) to replace the rotted ones, and the steering rack will not move back and forth anymore. That was my guess, too. Those bushings might be pretty thick but considering where they're located, they take a lot of abuse, especially if that crappy mud guard is gone. I replaced mine last night and the difference in tightness has been noticeable (the left bushing was severely deterioated and I could move the rack just a bit by hand). Now the skid plate can go back on, too. BTW, the bushings cost $35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 All bragging aside, I do not have these problems...but can somone post a pic of which bushngs you are refering too? Is it the ones that are squished inside sort of a C clamp fixture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 All bragging aside, I do not have these problems...but can somone post a pic of which bushngs you are refering too? Is it the ones that are squished inside sort of a C clamp fixture? Yep, that's them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 Yep, that's them! I just saw a 3rd shop and he told me its not the whole rack. He said its the bushings that need to be replaced. He said he believes I can only get them at the dealer. Anyone know of any where else I can get them? Also I had him look at the A/C Compressor and the radiator. He said change the radiator before the A/C compressor because the raditor is startin to leak from the top. I was given to price to replace radiator. (see below) I was told if the compressor stops working I can still drive the truck. Was he correct? Radiator estimate 1: $544 1.radiator ($203.25) 2. thermostat ($48.10) 3. thermostat housing gasket ($2.60) 4. cooling system (pressure test for leaks, ck thermostat & heater operation, ck all hoses & belts, drain & flush system & add coolant) $56.00 5. coolant ($24.95) 6. total labor cost = $266.00 Radiator estimate 2: $295 1.radiator ($203.25) 2. total labor cost = $91.00 If I get the parts then I will only be charged labor, but I won't have a warranty if the work is done wrong. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 I just called Nissan and was told the bushings are not sold seperatly. Can this be true for a 1997 Pathfinder LE? I just saw a 3rd shop and he told me its not the whole rack. He said its the bushings that need to be replaced. He said he believes I can only get them at the dealer. Anyone know of any where else I can get them? Also I had him look at the A/C Compressor and the radiator. He said change the radiator before the A/C compressor because the raditor is startin to leak from the top. I was given to price to replace radiator. (see below) I was told if the compressor stops working I can still drive the truck. Was he correct? Radiator estimate 1: $544 1.radiator ($203.25) 2. thermostat ($48.10) 3. thermostat housing gasket ($2.60) 4. cooling system (pressure test for leaks, ck thermostat & heater operation, ck all hoses & belts, drain & flush system & add coolant) $56.00 5. coolant ($24.95) 6. total labor cost = $266.00 Radiator estimate 2: $295 1.radiator ($203.25) 2. total labor cost = $91.00 If I get the parts then I will only be charged labor, but I won't have a warranty if the work is done wrong. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I just called Nissan and was told the bushings are not sold seperatly. Can this be true for a 1997 Pathfinder LE? Nonsense. 9 bucks each. Click here. You want TWO of part number 2 on the diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) Radiator estimate 1: $5441.radiator ($203.25) 2. thermostat ($48.10) 3. thermostat housing gasket ($2.60) 4. cooling system (pressure test for leaks, ck thermostat & heater operation, ck all hoses & belts, drain & flush system & add coolant) $56.00 5. coolant ($24.95) 6. total labor cost = $266.00 The first quote added a bunch of stuff you didn't ask to be replaced. Thermostat should run you no more than $25 at your local Autozone. It's not hard to replace. $56 to pressure test? Bah! Is your cooling system leaking anywhere else? Losing any oolant now (except through the leaky radiator)? $25 for coolant? OMG, talk about a 200% markup! What's funny about this quote is that with all that extra un-asked-for work, they didn't even include new radiator hoses. If it were me, I'd just do it myself. Replacing the radiator isn't all that hard. But if you're not so good with tools, then I don't think you'd have any issues going with the 2nd quote, unless the mechanic seems shady. Where did you price the radiator? I found it for $118. Call your local auto parts stores for prices. Edited June 26, 2009 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 The first quote added a bunch of stuff you didn't ask to be replaced. Thermostat should run you no more than $25 at your local Autozone. It's not hard to replace. $56 to pressure test? Bah! Is your cooling system leaking anywhere else? Losing any oolant now (except through the leaky radiator)? $25 for coolant? OMG, talk about a 200% markup! What's funny about this quote is that with all that extra un-asked-for work, they didn't even include new radiator hoses. If it were me, I'd just do it myself. Replacing the radiator isn't all that hard. But if you're not so good with tools, then I don't think you'd have any issues going with the 2nd quote, unless the mechanic seems shady. Where did you price the radiator? I found it for $118. Call your local auto parts stores for prices. Funny thing is I checked my radiator today and its full. The mechanic said that its leaking from the top. You see some dried up stuff on top. I will post a pic tomorrow of what they see. I'm also going to a shop that only works on radiators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 Funny thing is I checked my radiator today and its full. The mechanic said that its leaking from the top. You see some dried up stuff on top. I will post a pic tomorrow of what they see. I'm also going to a shop that only works on radiators. Does anyone know a good mechanic in the Orlando, Florida area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 Does anyone know a good mechanic in the Orlando, Florida area? Ok I can get the radiator for $139.94 from a place that only sells radiators. I found a shop that will only charge me $66.42 labor. That will inlcude pressure test and coolant. Should I replace the thermostat? Its only been on there for a year & 1/2. Unfortantely The mechanic who said it was the bushing lifted my truck today and said the rack & pinion needs to be replaced. He saw more then what he was thinking. He had said it was the bushing by the description of the problem I gave him. I've attached pics of my radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Ok I can get the radiator for $139.94 from a place that only sells radiators. I found a shop that will only charge me $66.42 labor. That will inlcude pressure test and coolant. Should I replace the thermostat? Its only been on there for a year & 1/2. Unfortantely The mechanic who said it was the bushing lifted my truck today and said the rack & pinion needs to be replaced. He saw more then what he was thinking. He had said it was the bushing by the description of the problem I gave him. I've attached pics of my radiator. i had a pressure test done on the radiatot and its leaking from the top. They also found the water pump is dripping. I just got the water pump Jan 2008. The radiator I can get for 139.94 is plastic. the mechanic can get me one which is metal for 280. Does anyone know how long a platic one can last and should I go with the metal one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 The OEM radiator has plastic end tanks, and it should last at least 5+ years. If it weren't for the fact that my OEM radiator exploded due to severe overheating (caused by me) a couple of years ago, I'm confident that it would still be working fine. The radiator was 10 years old and had 145000+ miles on it when it exploded. I'm not sure why yours is leaking. I wouldn't spend the extra money on the metal one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJBBMANO Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 The OEM radiator has plastic end tanks, and it should last at least 5+ years. If it weren't for the fact that my OEM radiator exploded due to severe overheating (caused by me) a couple of years ago, I'm confident that it would still be working fine. The radiator was 10 years old and had 145000+ miles on it when it exploded. I'm not sure why yours is leaking. I wouldn't spend the extra money on the metal one. Thanks for the info. I guess mine is leaking because its 12 years old. Its the original radiator. Im being charged $70 to install it if I bring the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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