MY1PATH Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 (edited) I put my Calmini in last night Using Energy suspension "Formula 5 grease" on the bushings to hopefully prevent squeaks in the long run this stuff is smooth and extreeemly thick so I am hopeful...(updates will come as time progresses) I cranked the t-bars until I had 0 deg camber(factory spec .7 to 1.7), I got maybe an inch out of it and it was already cranked a little b4 so maybe 1.5-1.75 total. I cranked a little more this morning for a total of maybe 2" and went to put 2 washers behind each side of the UCA spindle like it had before but without all the shims. When tightening the forward bolt on the passenger UCA it went "POP" and I went "WTF? oh no! Dammit! Dammit! Dammit! " It will not get any tighter, the treads are done (and no I didn't over tighten it), I AM PISSED! Everything was going so well. This particular bolt hole has had a history of problems that I think all started when it was hit 20 yrs ago. Anyway before I can do anything else to it I'm a limp it off to the collision/alignment shop(it can still grab a few threads if I leave the washers out) and have them fill weld the hole and re-tap it for the original bolt. I just really wanted to test it out today B4 I go 2 Michigan, but now it has to wait in a shop till I get back. By the way, here's some pix from last night B4 the problems came the Problemmatic bolt has been circled in red on the first photo. click to enlarge Edited May 1, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 i just had that fixed on my truck. didnt trust myself to do it myself. cost $200 + $100 labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 (edited) i just had that fixed on my truck. didnt trust myself to do it myself. cost $200 + $100 labor. owch! There goes the rancho's I was gonna get. I Hope this is the last time I have an issue with this bolt.(and I hope the other UCA bolts never have issue either) Edited May 1, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 yeah, it hurt. hopefully you can get it done for less though. are you gonna replace the bolt too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 the bolt is a new 10.9 (grade 8 equvalent) from the last time it had issue and its threads are spotless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 You can clean that out and use a Helicoil in it. I believe all it takes is included in a Helicoil kit if you can find one in that thread size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 You can clean that out and use a Helicoil in it. I believe all it takes is included in a Helicoil kit if you can find one in that thread size. don't helicoils have that little tab @ the bottom that you use to install them? If the bolt threads thru would the tab be a problem. or are there differant styles. Its little late to go looking for 14mmx1.25 helicoil kit(tho I should have considered this sooner). its already @ the mechanics and I'm going to be shipped outa state @ moments notice sometime this weekend(gotta love the military). So I might as well let the mechanic go thru with it while I'm gone so I can @ least come back to a safely driveable pathy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beavis0076 Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 By the way... I don't believe this is ever off topic... Thanks for Serving!!!! Props and my respect to you man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Yeah, I would suggest either helicoil or fill the hole with weld and re-drill/retap it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 OOH! Where ya goin in michigan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 OOH! Where ya goin in michigan? Hell, where else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beavis0076 Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Hell, where else? LMFAO so true! hahahahahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Hell, where else? Do you remember 6-6-06? Michigan was so PROUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 awh jeez that sucks you could drill out what's left of the threads and re-tap the hole for a little bit bigger bolt. I have to do that to one of my ARB mounting bolts (stupid captive nuts ) I have gotten in the habit of chasing all the mounting holes for stuff before i screw the bolts back in. it makes such a huge difference you can hand thread most bolts after cleaning up the threads. p.s. where is your front sway bar? or do you like it better without? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 When tightening the forward bolt on the passenger UCA it went "POP" Several people have had this issue and one cause is longer bolts are required with some aftermarket UCAs, especially when shimmed. Were you using a torque wrench? don't helicoils have that little tab @ the bottom that you use to install them? If the bolt threads thru would the tab be a problem. or are there differant styles. Helicoils have the tab for inserting, but it is easily (supposed to be) broken off after being inserted and there is no through hole interference. Yes, there are many types of thread inserts from Helicoil style to solid sleeves with tabs on the OD that have to be driven in place to lock them. It's really more about the application, clearance, wall thickness, etc. I have never had a problem with Helicoils my self (they are mil spec) but some people don't like them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjdavieshall Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 "This particular bolt hole has had a history of problems that I think all started when it was hit 20 yrs ago." Actually, I hopped a curb after coming into an intersection way to fast after passing some one going up a hill. I was late picking you up at day care. I have learned a little since then, although you might wonder how much since you were with me when I popped that bolt out jumping a rise off road near Loma Prieta. I don't off road any more, and try to enter the turns at appropriate speeds. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 LOL I'm not sure if that is a wise arse comment or if Dad is just stating the history. If it is the second, yeah, the hole is shot!! Hey Dad, by all means slow down on the road (and off), you can wheel just fine without catching air... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 (edited) Had the Exact same thing happen to me on the First Pathfinder I owned. Same side, same hole. Same Calstinky UCA installation. Pain in the ass to say the least. I spent a good deal of time doing the heli coil bit. Worked for me. I never mentioned it on here cause I was embarrassed. Glad to see it's happened to quite a few of us. Makes me feel better now even if it absolutely sucks for you man. Oh ya..... and enjoy Calmini's brutally annoying squeaky UCA's. You may want to do as others have on here and drill in a Zerk where the Bushings are for some special grease. I found their product to be beefy which was great, but noisy, and If your planning on Rancho's as I read above, better consider removing some material from the shock holes. They don't like to fit the Rancho 9000xs series too well. Just a thought. Good luck man. I feel for ya. Edited May 4, 2009 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 Back from MI, It sucked and I got really sick right after I returned (swine scare) but I'm recovering now. I'm trying energy suspendion grease on calmini's newer Vecton (vekton) bushings. when It comes time to do the rancho's I'll be doing some trimming and freshpowdercoat (I doubt calmini preped it since there was still slag on the UCA's under the powder) and if they are noisy by then I'll add zerks. Thanks for the correction dad, the mechanic actaually told me that the bolt is bad (guess I din't look hard enough) and that the 60mm bolts (stock is 50) were bottoming out on the frame shince there are no shims on the calmini as opposed to allot of shims on the stock uca's. He said he'd got a new bolt to hold @ 60fltlbs (I told him the spec was 80ftlbs) and that this stripping bolt thing was common and that MFJRs try to make the frame threads tougher in these areas so this it is the bolt not the hole. He's going to chase the threads with a tap and put a stock spec bolt in there.... And yeh $205 @ this prisine body shop, I think I'll be going elsewhere next time. they weren't done with it when I called and I hope not to find out they were wrong when I call to pick it up monday. Swaybar... I broke the rod end anchor once and didn't feel much differance w/o it attached while waitng for the enegy suspendion kit. so when one of the inner anchors sheard off I said forget it, I don't need a front sway bar. The rear on the other hand, I do like having for those winding on-ramps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 THESE ASSHOLES HAVE HAD MY TRUCK FOR 2 WEEKS NOW! IT SAT IN LINE FOR 5 DAYS WHILE I WAS IN MICHIGAN AND THEN WHEN THEY LOOKE AT IT THEY SAID IT JUST NEEDED RE-TAPED AND A NEW BOLT. EVERY TIME I CALL THEY SAY THEY ARE STILL TRYING TO "BORROW" A 14MM FROM SOMEWHERE TO FINISH THE JOB INSTEAD OF JUST BUYING ONE. I FEEL LIKE I'M GETTING THE RUN-ARROUND, MY WIFE DOESN'T UNDERSTAND THE SITUATION AND I JUST WASTED 3 DAYS OFF THAT I HAD PLANNED TO SPEND WORKING ON THE PATHY. can you tell I'm starting to get frustraigthed? what should I do if I don't have it by Friday? I wanted to make a panhard drop for it @ "work" this weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Yep, they are wasting your time. 14mm tap? What thread pitch? I know I have some in my box at work. If I have the right one, I can mail it to the idiots... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 14x1.5 appearantly his father who works a pefromance suspension shop (street not offroad) had one that they use for custom TRE's all the time... anyway for waiting, he knocked down the price 116 instead of 205. Still seems like a bit high considering all they did was tap it since the threads were not bad enough to deem welding. but what can I do, the threads had to be cleaned. I shoulda inspected more carefully and bought the tap and done it but I was in too much of a hurry to want it done for when I came back from michigan (which it wasn't) I prolly would've had it done tuesday if I'd just ordered a tap and parked it B4 going to michigan. Then I'd only be out the cost of a bolt and tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Been there. Hind sight, intent and desire collide and it makes a mess of things not to mention make it clear later. In the future, let me know if I can help. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 Upon close inspection, they didn't even put stock size bolts in (50mm) They used the same length bolt I was using (60mm) and just put shims in it to keep it form bottoming and only told me it was shorter and the the shims "were only precaution." Those assholes! So I bought 4 new 50mm bolts, took the arms completely off and looked at everyting closely w/ lights & depth probes. the frame up front is beefy! its a full box with a rib down the middle like this [|] so the bolts were hitting that middle rib and dented it in some exept the bolt gave up instead of denting on that rt fwd one... Lessons learned; If using longer bolts for more shims go back to stock bolts when not using shims anymore Don't trust ppl to work on your car if they don't like there job (I got that vibe that they didn't like their work, which means no pride in doing it right) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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