FUELER Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 HELP ASAP PLEASE i accidentally broke the 12mm nut that holds the rear bumpstop in...... and now the remainder of the broken bolt is STUCK in the fskcin top mount, which appears to be WELDED to the unibody!!!! HELP! advice??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 and no that top mount isnt just bolted in.... those brown things are holes..... its welded in.... help please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Heat, PB and an Extractor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 (edited) thanks for the quick reply, unfortunately i have none of those. im trying to drive outta here tonite. how important is it to have that rear bumpstop installed? is it safe to drive around without it? Edited April 18, 2009 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 did you try a needle nose? you will be safe so long as you don't bottom out. avoid potholes and take it easy on speed bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 I'd agree with some flame and it looks like you have enough to grab it with some vice grips but until you can get acess to that I don't forsee an issue on the road. I've driven with missing bumpstops before on pavement and had no issues(still eventually fixed em though before I got into any situations where i could possibly slap an axle against the frame). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 thanks fellas. im going to do flame and vice grips as soon as i can.... but another question, the OEM nissan springs have little rubber sleeves on both the bottom and top of the spring. They dont really fit on the OME coils (the coils are much thicker) how important are these sleeves???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Those sleeves act as "Insulators". Basically they help to prevent the coil from shifting around on the mount and reduce NVH. Not really absolutely necessary to have them installed, but it'll be nicer with them. As far as the bump-stops. It's fine to drive without them, but, I'd get that fixed before you take it off-road, as you'll need them then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InfinQX4 Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Agreed - you'll be fine on the road, but fix before going on the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orangetang Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 I would normally do exactly what everyone has already mentioned, but be extremely carefull with where you put the heat. The EVAP system, hoses, fuel lines and tank are all very close. This is my advice for getting it out, but I'm no mechanic so if you know better, don't listen to me. I generally heat up the bolt shaft as much as I can before spraying on a penetrating fluid that isn't flammable. Let it sit for a few minutes and heat it again. Clamp on the vice-grips as tight as you can and wiggle them back and forth until it begins to move. For every 1/4 turn you come out, go back in 1/2. It doesn't hurt to spray on some lube as you are doing this. Basically do the reverse of tapping a hole. If you don't, the bolt will more than likely break further down, or damage the remaining good threads, that you will need later on. Use the lube and turn method for removing all rusty bolts and you'll thank yourself later. If the vicegrips won't get it out, or keep slipping, I think your next option would be to grind it flat, and very carefully dimple the center of the bolt shaft so you can drill and extract. Work your way up in bit size until you have 1-2mm remaining thickness at the thinnest part. Then use whatever extractor bit fits in well. Just be aware that if you use a bit that is to big, and only a little bit of the extractor is in the hole, it might break off and thenyou really have a problem. I did that once, and had to call a welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 It looks like there's a few threads sticking out. If it were me, I would try to use a dremel or grinder to grind a slot in the top of what's left of the bolt, and then use a flathead screwdriver to remove it (along with using lubricants and heat). But the other methods suggested might work just as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 It looks like there's a few threads sticking out. If it were me, I would try to use a dremel or grinder to grind a slot in the top of what's left of the bolt, and then use a flathead screwdriver to remove it (along with using lubricants and heat). But the other methods suggested might work just as well. Dean, that's a great suggestion. Keep it simple, I say. I'd be a little hesitant to use heat around that area of the truck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Dude, I am no metalurgist but heat expands metal, this would make it tighter. You can use the heat and PB Buster to help "break" the frozen aspect of the bolt wether its dirt or corrosion, but wait for it to cool before trying to twist it out again. Water is the only common substance that swells when colder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 This same thing happened to me when I took off my bumpstops, What i wound up doing was to drill out the rest of the bolt...its not that long, then went and found another bolt that would fit in the bumpstop and tapped out the hole with a tap and dye set, you can get those at home depot or lowes for pretty cheap. I would not advise drving around with out them, get it done right the first time so that you dont have to go back and do it all over again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Dude, I am no metalurgist but heat expands metal, this would make it tighter. yes and no. the heat is helping break loose the corrosion or dirt casuing it to seize. and were talking propane torch hot not welding torch hot. its not going to expand so much that it binds. I would try to keep the spring isolators on. it stops the spring from chafing the perch which can lead to exposed metal.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 gotcha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 This same thing happened to me when I took off my bumpstops lol i wish u would have mentioned that when you advised removal of bumpstops overall i think it would have been easier to disconnect the shocks and panhard rod, and to have skipped the bumpstops and spring compressors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 thanks for the advice fellas.... its all put back together now.... although i finished so late that i didnt even feel like driving around, so i spent the nite here at my parents place. I did drive around the block and WHOA it leans side to side! noticeably more sway than tha factory suspension. normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 My bad dude, I thought that it would be a isolated problem with me, because 5 or so years of my pathys life were spent up north with all the salt and winter conditions, you...being in cali I didnt think that you would have a problem. And in terms of sway, I didnt realize any difference in handling, and my sway bars are still on, check and make sure everything is tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Mine are both broke....but are still in there, just flopping around....will fix when I finally install lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fukinitupagain Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 overall i think it would have been easier to disconnect the shocks and panhard rod, and to have skipped the bumpstops and spring compressors. Thats what I did in the rear (that almost sounds "dirty"). Did you ever get the lift finished? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 yup its complete. minus the bumpstop. like mickey dees i'm lovin' it. once i fix the bumpstop i'll romp it and take a photograph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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