4wheeldrivefun Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 This is my 1st post here, So i am a total noob to these pathfinders, I just got a 1994 Pathfinder 4x4 leather all options and I LOVE it its awesome, However My check engine light came on. So i do a search on the form and find this self diagnostic mode, I pull 4 codes, Knock sensor, Idle switch, Fuel injector circuit, fuel injector and Air flow meter. The previous owner replaced the AFM with a new one i have the old made the car run fine. So Im thinking fuel injector so i take the intake off ;-( (was not easy) and I am going to have the injectors flow tested and cleaned tomorrow. The car has way over 200k miles on it and looks like its in really good shape. My next question is where is the knock sensor located? I think I have found it on the rear of the engine but I am not sure. Testing out that 4x4 works good :-) Also dose anyone have 1 fuel injector i think i broke one of him taking it out as well as Im looking for a drivers side front leather door panel. thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytrosfinder Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Not totally sure where that sensor is.... I will help ya in your search... Not to be a jerk or anything, you sure you pulled the right codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 the knock sensor is in the cyl valley underneath your lower intake manifold. expect a day or more of down time if you plan on changining it and mark all your vaccum lines so you put them back right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Crap I was just down that far and put it back tougher darn It took me all day your right I don't know if the T-belt was ever done in my car I didnt see any sticky or anything on doing a T-belt on a vg30E engine. the knock sensor is in the cyl valley underneath your lower intake manifold. expect a day or more of down time if you plan on changining it and mark all your vaccum lines so you put them back right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 (edited) 10 to 1 your knock sensor is not a problem. Typically, it is triggering becuase your truck runs rough due to another issue. Save that for last unless you are there already. Post what you find in your analysis. I still have a few injectors left from my other engine so I may be able to help in that respect. The FSM has fairly good diagnostic procedures on how to test each code and component. You can find the 94 online or PM me and I'll host one online for you to download. If you have a slow connection or download limitation, I can burn a CD and mail one for a couple bucks to cover shipping. and Welcome! Edited April 6, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 The timing belt on a 94 should be changed every 105,000 miles. Welcome to the NPORA forums! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 The timing belt on a 94 should be changed every 105,000 miles. Welcome to the NPORA forums! and don't overtorque your tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Formerly_94PathyMan Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Have you checked your ignition timing in respect to the detonation sensor? It should be 15 degrees. I had that same problem after doing my T-belt, and that is all it was. Also, try resetting the system completely and see if the code comes back. On mine I had it coming on and then off and then on, and I cleared the codes and it has been three weeks now, no code. I would clear it first and see what you come up with. To clear it, get the engine running, turn the selector on the ECU under the pass. seat all the way to diagnostics, wait for both lights to flash four times then turn it all the way the other direction. That will clear all codes, then you can see what is truly wrong with your truck. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeling Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) So I put it in self dia mode here are my codes 12 34 51 23 45 Ive ordered a knock sensor but it would be cool if that wasn't the case. Ya if someone could PM me a download able FSM that would be cool I got this suv from kind of a shady guy i have no idea of the T belt has ever bin done i might as well do it. Dose the FSM have instructions on this? I will check timing and see what happens, Mean wile i want to know what you guys think in response to these codes if its something specific thank you. Edited April 7, 2009 by 4wheeling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 Update, I have found the FSM, I have looked thew it and I don't see anything about setting Timing, Sais replacement timing belt procedure. Dosn't say how to check and adjust timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 You need a timing light to check your timing, and to advance/retard your timing there are two screws on the distributor that you loosen, and turn the distributor cap left or right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 Cool what plug wire do i want to attach the timing light to and what mark do i go off of on the main pully. I see 3 white marks and 1 gold mark. You need a timing light to check your timing, and to advance/retard your timing there are two screws on the distributor that you loosen, and turn the distributor cap left or right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) (from memory... better to check your FSM) center mark is 0 degrees each other mark is + or - 5 degrees timing light on cylinder 1 set to 5 drgreed before TDC see page EF-EC 24 in the FSM (there's even a picture) check your index for Ignition TIming Inspection (not just Timing) Edited April 7, 2009 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) knock sensor location.......... (yeah, i have pics of everything) Edited April 7, 2009 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 (yeah, i have pics of everything) *snicker* I have pics of a few things myself. heheheh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 here are my codes12 34 51 23 45 12 - Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is entered to ECM input). 34 - Knock sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is entered to ECM input). 51 - Injector circuit is open. 45 - Injector leak. 23 - Unknown error (maybe, this is your mistake by counting LED flashes?). So, you have a couple of errors (12, 34, 51) commonly caused by wiring damages. Check all wires between sensors (injectors too) and ECM (electronic module under the front passenger seat) before replacing any components. Test it for wire breaks and short-circuits to ground (or to another wire). Check ECM ground circuit also (for good, non-rusted metal connection to body ground). Repair all discovered wire damages. Clear error codes, run engine, then check errors again. 4wheeldrivefun - you too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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