bigred07 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 since i got my 89 there has been this squeeking noise coming from the suspension system of the front drivers side area. recently having people look at to posibly replace the shock we have found something interesting. where the tension rod is mounted to the car, where the rod goes through metal and there are bushings on either side, the whole where the rod passes through the metal mount looks really big, about the size of the bushings, and maybe wearing out. i don't have another one to compare this or anything and iwas wonder if anybody has had a similar problem or can tell me whats going on and how to fix it. one mechanic said posibly welding on another metal plate over it and drilling the right size whole in it. i if anybody can help me out with this it would be very apreciated. i also am not much of a mechanic myself so i will be needing somebody else to do the repairs. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Unfortunately, this happens when the bushing has worn into garbage. The plate trick would probably work. Are the bushing cups still attached? People have welded on bearing races if not. Perhaps I can find some picts that you can reference/pass along. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Have a plate welded on or a cup or something. Here's what mine looked like: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 (edited) if you get the plate welded, try to weld it to the backside. this sounds like the hardway but welding to the front will increase your castor angle. also IF you want to rplace those bushing cups with something sturdy let me know, you can weld a a bearing cup in place; I have the p/n and supplier for the one that most closelsy fits the oiginal rubber bushing shape. they run like $5 ea, you'll want 4 (front/back both sides). this mod should end all ROD ISSUEs EDIT: I just checked the invoice $8.29ea McGuire Bearing PN A-S M84510 If anybody needs me to pick some up I can. Edited May 19, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred07 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Have a plate welded on or a cup or something. Here's what mine looked like: yeah mine looks pretty similar but in the opposite/down dirtection, you can see the whole underneath the bushings instead of above. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred07 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 another things is the mount seems to have moved or whatever and is really close to the tension rod. i have a picture but don't know how to make it fit into these messages... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Off site image hosting website. Photobucket, imageshack, etc. There's a thread on it, search! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispyc Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 if you get the plate welded, try to weld it to the backside. this sounds like the hardway but welding to the front will increase your castor angle. also IF you want to rplace those bushing cups with something sturdy let me know, you can weld a a bearing cup in place; I have the p/n and supplier for the one that most closelsy fits the oiginal rubber bushing shape. they run like $5 ea, you'll want 4 (front/back both sides). this mod should end all ROD ISSUEs Would the bearing cup you are reffering to fit a '91 4wd. I noticed the welding on one of my bushing cups is coming loose. Maybe thats what is causing my steering issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creekkid Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 How big is that hole supposed to be? Should it be a snug fit or is there supposed to be some room for movement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 How big is that hole supposed to be? Should it be a snug fit or is there supposed to be some room for movement? The hole that passes through the frame? About 3/4 of an inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frecklecolouredbrain Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 3/4 is about right, but i'm going by the width because mine are a but oval. P.O never changed 'em. the busshing not being welded should really affect anything. i used some 3/4 fender washers as replacement cup and torqued it to the max. in the range(108lbs i think). i haven't had any troubles more than some minor sqeakyness under very light stress. and i drive it like a race car. let me know if you have any trouble getting the rods back in tho. mine took about 3hrs a piece to put back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Yeah, mine took me through hell and back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frecklecolouredbrain Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 me again. i took a look at the ics farther up and that hole looks way too big. if you have it all apart try to get the old spacer off and take a look at the rod. the sqeaky you had/have is the rod rubbing on the frame it looks like. that was my issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispyc Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 let me know if you have any trouble getting the rods back in tho. mine took about 3hrs a piece to put back. Did you crank down the torsion bars before you started? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred07 Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 Did you crank down the torsion bars before you started? i have no idea i didn't do the fix. basically there are long metal "skirt" pieces that go over the rod and basically fit between the rod and the frame, both left and right had been eaten through the right one was fused the rod itself somehow so i had to get a new rod. they welded metal the upper part of the whole and sanded it to size and then put the new parts on, no squeek now. but there is a whole in the main cv boot so i got boots but i guess they require some more labour becaue they are backwards from other cars... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 i guess they require some more labour becaue they are backwards from other cars... ? huh? Backwards?!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crispyc Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 i have no idea i didn't do the fix. basically there are long metal "skirt" pieces that go over the rod and basically fit between the rod and the frame, both left and right had been eaten through the right one was fused the rod itself somehow so i had to get a new rod. they welded metal the upper part of the whole and sanded it to size and then put the new parts on, no squeek now. but there is a whole in the main cv boot so i got boots but i guess they require some more labour becaue they are backwards from other cars... ? Ok I got hung-up over the same line as Simon, but I realised LittleRed was the person that I quoted so I guess it dosen't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taoism Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 if you get the plate welded, try to weld it to the backside. this sounds like the hardway but welding to the front will increase your castor angle. also IF you want to rplace those bushing cups with something sturdy let me know, you can weld a a bearing cup in place; I have the p/n and supplier for the one that most closelsy fits the oiginal rubber bushing shape. they run like $5 ea, you'll want 4 (front/back both sides). this mod should end all ROD ISSUEs could I have that p/n and supplier info please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred07 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 could I have that p/n and supplier info please? i don't have the parts number, but for the bushings i got at a local store and another one had bushing with the sleeve so you should be able to get them at a parts store, or my local dealer had them and the rod for not to much, i just had to pay extra for the stupid shiping. the dealer was the only place i found the rod however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taoism Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 uuuum......I was asking MY1PATH, whom I quoted, for the p/n and supplier info for the bearing cups to replace the rsuted/broken bushing cups on the frame side mount of the tension rod. But thanks anyway. I already have a new set of bushings, pretty blue ones from MOOG, w/sleeves even. Both factory cups are tooled from the PO never doing these bushings, just like yours. As with a great many other things, welding will be required. So I see a cheap welder in my future, as paying someone to fix both sides would cost me the same money as a low end flux/mig set-up and I have other things that will need welding (fixing oval'd holes on the t-bar crossmember, replacing the radiator support) to accomplish. Being able to fabricate a few things would be nice as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 So I see a cheap welder in my future, I'm sorry to say that a cheap welder will not cut it here. yes, Mig welders are a good choice but its going to take allot of amps to get good heat penetration on the bearing cup other wise you welds will catipillar and their strength may be questionable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taoism Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 well, by "cheap" I meant under $500 bucks, which is about what most quality mig units of sufficient amperage to be useful for more than sheetmetal work go for. I'd really like a Miller like my buddy has, but he paid about $700 for it, not counting the bottle. I am hoping to find something used of decent quality/amperage locally, or within a cpl hours drive, for short money. My preference would be 140 or so amps, from Miller, Lincoln, Thermal Arc, or hobart, not in that particular order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 (edited) you should get that fixed... Have a plate welded on or a cup or something.Here's what mine looked like: if you get the plate welded, try to weld it to the backside. this sounds like the hardway but welding to the front will increase your castor angle. also IF you want to rplace those bushing cups with something sturdy let me know, you can weld a a bearing cup in place; I have the p/n and supplier for the one that most closelsy fits the oiginal rubber bushing shape. they run like $5 ea, you'll want 4 (front/back both sides). this mod should end all ROD ISSUEsEDIT:I just checked the invoice $8.29eaMcGuire Bearing PNA-S M84510If anybody needs me to pick some up I can. you should get that fixed... Edited August 20, 2013 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 When i had my hardbody and the tension rod holes were oblonged, I had a machine shop make me 4 plates to fit over the area where the hole is, they used a punch to make new holes, than I had a friend weld them on for me. I didn't use any cups for the bushings to sit in and never had a problem. Per the FSM it shows the tension rod hole as 27mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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