SilverPath Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 First some background then the questions! The other day I was at our company yard picking up some items to take to the job site, I figured it wouldn't take me very long so I let the Pathy idle.. Well, roughly 10-15 minutes went by and I was no where close to being done so I reached in to turn the ign off... As I reached for the key I happened to glance at the gauges and noticed my temp was higher then normal, that is slightly above 1/2 way. So I sat down to see if it was going to keep rising and it did.... I let it climb to about 3/4 of the way and shut it off. I opened the hood, to check my fluid levels and over flow was at max, and when I checked the rad it was to the cap. I wasn't sure what happened so I let it cool down, when I started it back up she ran normal for the rest of the afternoon It was by no means a warm day out, but around 40 degrees I'd say, The weird part is I could not replicate the problem again, I let it idle for a while and the temp stayed normal. Fast forward to Friday, I was traveling to Medford, OR. Towing a ~1500lb welder behind me, there are several 1700' passes you have to go over on the way. On one of them a biker had layed his bike over making them close a lane which backed I-5 up drastically, and low and behold I was stuck on the pass incline and was blocked in with no place to go, I noticed my temp gauge moving up again...Best place to be stuck when your rig starts to overheat... There is no shoulders to pull over so I just had to let it keep rising. When I could I would shut off the engine to let it cool down some, but these were only 1-2 min windows as the line kept moving. I could not let the outside air cool it down as I was moving roughly 2-3 mph, when I finally got it shut off at the H line there was no bubbling sound or gurgling, Just quiet. I had to get moving again as Ive already held up the one lane for 50-60 feet. So I started her back up and after a min the temp fell back to within normal, and the rest of the trip was fine, even the way back home. >Are there no warning lights for overheating in the pathy? It got to the H and the dash was black >I'm wondering if my thermstat is going bad because of the sudden drop of temp? >Or maybe a bad sensor? >any help would be appreciated. Thanks for reading my word wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) Thermostats are cheap relatively speaking - repalce it with a quality one so you have confidence in that. It is the most likley culprit I think. It could also be your fan? How long since the cooling system was flushed? Edited February 9, 2009 by BowTied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 yeah, could be the clutch on the fan. could be a bubble in the system or a clog. next time you're overheating and stuck in traffic, turn your heat on HI on the inside. the heater core is basically a radiator. i've had to do this many times in the past. it's not fun on a 100 degree day though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 The fan kicks on and off, when needed as far as I can tell. I need to change my T-belt here real soon running at 101k. Might as well change the T-stat and flush the coolant system in the process. May change to a e-fan also, we will see. Thanks for the replies. Does anyone know if there is a warning light in the dash of the R50 for overheating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Mine does the same thing. Does not like to idle for long times, especially if the ac compressor is on, or if its a really hot day. But 40 degrees??? (Perhaps you were using the front windshield defrost, which engages the AC compressor? but still....) if you been mudding a lot, you should always use a garden hose and push water through the radiator fins from back to front, you might be surprised at what pours out the other side! good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 No warning light for over-heating, 'cause they gave us a gauge! I second the flush comment...I have a 93 Civic that overheated on occasion, I changed the T-stat, used AC coil fin cleaner on the radiator, burped the system correctly....nothing. I ran the strongest/most involved radator flush (says it removes old sold bloom from inside as well), and this seems to have cured my problems. The water/product that came out was near black in color and had tons of particles in it. The car has not overheated since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Mine used to do this. There is no light, unfortunatley. I do have to give Nissan credit, as they made these engines beastly! Anyway, it wasn't the thermostat. And my coolant level always seemed fine. Turns out that one of my coolant line brackets, specifically the t-stat bypass hose, had actually worn out and broke, and my hose was venting. Not venting coolant, just pressure. As you know, the cooling system needs pressure to maintain good coolant flow. Just my $0.02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Mine does the same thing. Does not like to idle for long times, especially if the ac compressor is on, or if its a really hot day. But 40 degrees??? (Perhaps you were using the front windshield defrost, which engages the AC compressor? but still....) if you been mudding a lot, you should always use a garden hose and push water through the radiator fins from back to front, you might be surprised at what pours out the other side! good luck. You know I did have the front defrost with foot heater on. I may have to try and reenact this with the defrost on all the way, to see what she does. Sadly I haven't been wheeling in awhile So the engine compartment is clean as a whistle (need to change that soon) Sounds like the flush is the thing to try. I will do it here in a week or two with the T-belt. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) The fan kicks on and off, when needed as far as I can tell. I need to change my T-belt here real soon running at 101k. Might as well change the T-stat and flush the coolant system in the process. May change to a e-fan also, we will see. Thanks for the replies. Does anyone know if there is a warning light in the dash of the R50 for overheating? "Fan kicks on and off"...????? How can you tell when it would "kick on and off"? It should be on all the time, spinning with more or less force depending on how hot it is. (The stock fan uses a clutch.) If the engine runs hot at idle or low speeds, then the problem is likely the fan clutch. If the engine runs hot at speed (as well as at idle), then it's more likely the thermostat. In your case, I would be suspicious of the fan clutch. BTW, if the engine truly overheats (i.e. coolant temp exceeds about 250°F), the computer will shut the engine off for you. Edited February 10, 2009 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I take it investing in an electric fan is a good idea...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I take it investing in an electric fan is a good idea...? Not necessarily. I used to have a Flexalite 295 fan in my Pathy, and I had more problems with my Pathy after installing it than with the stock fan, so I removed it and went back to stock. To start with, there were fitment issues. Plus, the fan draws 30 amps. I fried my alternator while running the A/C and all of my off-road lights at the same time in Death Valley, CA. I learned it's very unwise to rely solely on the electrical system to provide engine cooling while off-road. However, I don't see any problem with installing a small (~12") auxiliary electric fan to supplement the existing engine-driven fan on an as-needed basis. Depending on how it's wired, it can help keep A/C temps cool at idle speeds during hot summers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Not necessarily. I used to have a Flexalite 295 fan in my Pathy, and I had more problems with my Pathy after installing it than with the stock fan, so I removed it and went back to stock. To start with, there were fitment issues. Plus, the fan draws 30 amps. I fried my alternator while running the A/C and all of my off-road lights at the same time in Death Valley, CA. I learned it's very unwise to rely solely on the electrical system to provide engine cooling while off-road. However, I don't see any problem with installing a small (~12") auxiliary electric fan to supplement the existing engine-driven fan on an as-needed basis. Depending on how it's wired, it can help keep A/C temps cool at idle speeds during hot summers. I was told to get one because I planned on wheeling... For water crossings and such, an electric fan was suggested. But when I asked why, the response was, "I'm the off-road expert so don't question me." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 typically if you install an auxiliary electric fan, it is also manually selectable so you can turn it off/on when you want. at a water crossing, you'd want it off so it doesn't spray water all over your engine bay and possibly into/onto your distributor and other electronics. a clutch fan (engine-driven) will always be spinning. i'm sure there are other reasons, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 typically if you install an auxiliary electric fan, it is also manually selectable so you can turn it off/on when you want. at a water crossing, you'd want it off so it doesn't spray water all over your engine bay and possibly into/onto your distributor and other electronics. a clutch fan (engine-driven) will always be spinning. i'm sure there are other reasons, as well. But wouldn't the clutch fan do the same if it came into contact with water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) But wouldn't the clutch fan do the same if it came into contact with water? that's why they suggest electric fan over clutch fan. but if you're driving through water so deep that the fan is submerged in water, then you have more important things to worry about - water in the engine, water in the cab, etc. Edited February 10, 2009 by alexrex20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 I ran the strongest/most involved radator flush got a brand name? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 typically if you install an auxiliary electric fan, it is also manually selectable so you can turn it off/on when you want. at a water crossing, you'd want it off so it doesn't spray water all over your engine bay and possibly into/onto your distributor and other electronics. a clutch fan (engine-driven) will always be spinning. i'm sure there are other reasons, as well. you definitely want it switched off as NOT TO FRY IT. But wouldn't the clutch fan do the same if it came into contact with water? the stock fan will throw water everywhere but it could also bust from all the water against it. that's why they suggest electric fan over clutch fan. but if you're driving through water so deep that the fan is submerged in water, then you have more important things to worry about - water in the engine, water in the cab, etc. i've had water splashing against my windshield. no worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 that's why they suggest electric fan over clutch fan. but if you're driving through water so deep that the fan is submerged in water, then you have more important things to worry about - water in the engine, water in the cab, etc. Good point! I can't stand the gargantuan size of the stock clutch fan but I understand its importance. I've wanted to install a dual electric fan with over-ride switch but am still debating... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Not necessarily. I used to have a Flexalite 295 fan in my Pathy, and I had more problems with my Pathy after installing it than with the stock fan, so I removed it and went back to stock. To start with, there were fitment issues. Plus, the fan draws 30 amps. I fried my alternator while running the A/C and all of my off-road lights at the same time in Death Valley, CA. I learned it's very unwise to rely solely on the electrical system to provide engine cooling while off-road. However, I don't see any problem with installing a small (~12") auxiliary electric fan to supplement the existing engine-driven fan on an as-needed basis. Depending on how it's wired, it can help keep A/C temps cool at idle speeds during hot summers. Er that is what I mean, I didn't mean literally turning on and off like an electric one. I meant as I was watching it the fan would spin faster when needed when I tried to reenact the overheating. Depending on how much noise is around you can usually hear it spin faster, but alas I wasn't paying enough attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 ok. if the fan spins very freely when hot or cold, the clutch is shot. this is on a stopped engine, ok? lol when hot, you shouldn't be able to move it at all. when cold, it should spin just a bit. mine doesn't spin 1/4 turn.. maybe half of that.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 SilverPath, a quick question, where in Vancouver are you? Clutch fan sounds very suspect to me too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Ill let you know if it spins tonight after school, like late tonight..... I'm um, in SE Vancouver, on the old Evergreen airport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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