FUELER Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Ok and the bearings and seals? Who swaps them out, or do you buy them new too and installed in the rotors?? the bearings are cheap ($8) so why not replace them if everything is taken apart? However, the Nissan ones are fine with just a repack, i have yet to hear of a wheel bearing failure on these message boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 (edited) Fueler this is what my truck looked like when I was looking at it. I had a close up picture, but I can't find it. Redpath has seen it. Edited January 28, 2009 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 the bearings are cheap ($8) so why not replace them if everything is taken apart? Inner and outer and rear seals? Perhaps I got expensive ones, but they cost me about $60 for everything. My point is, the bearings still need to be transplanted into new rotors by someone or even installing new ones which will be about the cost of turning the old rotors. However, the Nissan ones are fine with just a repack, i have yet to hear of a wheel bearing failure on these message boards. Agreed. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 My point is, the bearings still need to be transplanted into new rotors by someone or even installing new ones which will be about the cost of turning the old rotors. Nissan 4x4 rotors are a pain in the ass to remove and reinstall.... if i had to resurface, i'd go somewhere that has an on-car brake lathe. They turn the rotors without removing them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Fueler this is what my truck looked like when I was looking at it. I had a close up picture, but I can't find it. Redpath has seen it. wow what the hell failed?!?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) looks like a wheel bearing failure to me. or maybe someone forgot to screw the lock washer into the lock nut. judging by the wear on the tires, it looks like it had been that way for a while Edited January 29, 2009 by nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) was thinking about this thread while i was driving around today and i realized something. I only use engine-braking when coasting down hills that have a set speed limit. its perfect to maintain speed. In my auto R50 i never downshift to actually slow down for red light situations like what you guys might be thinking. I do believe that excessive engine braking in an automatic can and will cause problems. Most of my where i live is canyons and valleys, so im just driving up and down hills all day. Brake shops make a killing out here. Some of you might live in flat areas and be thinking what is this nut talking about engine braking for!! Edited January 29, 2009 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I only used engine braking on my 97 when going down hills above 40 mph, and all I would do is switch to OD off and switch back when I no longer needed the engine braking/ more power for the other side. In my 01 I downshift through every gear except 1 for almost every stopping situation, slowly easing the clutch and blipping the throttle to try and match the RPMs (I am not so good at that right now so clutch release is veerrrrrrrryyyyyy slow so the truck doesnt jerk) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Thanks Nige! How long have you owned it? Did you restore it yourself? Ever since I was 11, my dream car has always been a 1970 Chevelle SS454 LS6, blue with white stripes. I even get the shakes when I'm around one. And yes, your post did help. I bought the car in the summer of '92. I worked all the effing O/T I could get for a few months until I had a good chunk to go and borrow what I needed. Took me a good two years to pay it off, just int time to back into debt for college. Common sense said I should sell it to help pay for college, but I figured I might not get another one - by the time I paid my college loans, the car would have double the price I think, so I guess I lucked out there. I did not restore it myself, and trust me, it looks much better in the pic that in real life. THat pic is 5 years old at a show in Tennessee (Chevell-abration). THe car was painted by the previous owner in '88 and is showing it's age now. Still runs and drives fun. I am not a body guy, but do all the mechanical I can (pulled the engine, replaced clutch, trans, new intake rebuilt carb etc.) mmm, yes, an LS6 would be sweet. I am glad to hear you like that colour combo, it is in my top picks too...red with black stripes looks great too but is more common. If you like Chevelles, the absolute best site in the net is www.chevelles.com, I post there under the same alias. Glad to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 wow what the hell failed?!?!? looks like a wheel bearing failure to me. or maybe someone forgot to screw the lock washer into the lock nut. judging by the wear on the tires, it looks like it had been that way for a while The guy said it came off while he was passing a transport at 120kmh. He also said he was told it was "metal fatigue" on the shaft. The ball joints were new, so I assume the tires were like that because the old bj's were bad. He said the wheel bearings were also new. He had a list of parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Nissan 4x4 rotors are a pain in the ass to remove and reinstall.... if i had to resurface, i'd go somewhere that has an on-car brake lathe. They turn the rotors without removing them! in my experience, shops charge a premium for on-car brake service. at that cost, i'd rather just buy new rotors and install them myself. it is a huge PITA but really not that difficult or time-consuming. it should only take 30-45min each side, including bearing repack (not required, but recommended if you're already that far), caliper bleed, etc. that's a lot longer than the 3min it takes on other trucks, so it all depends on our laziness, cheapness, and the shop's costs for labor. back to engine braking, i think i was misinterpreting your post as you using engine braking for all braking situations. around houston, the steepest incline is usually the entrance to the wal-mart parking lot, so it was a bit over the top of my head when you said you "always use it." god forbid i'm in the mountains, i always use engine braking to help maintain speed while not overheating the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) in my experience, shops charge a premium for on-car brake service. at that cost, true. I dont know why they charge more to do less work. The machine must be expensive. back to engine braking, i think i was misinterpreting your post as you using engine braking for all braking situations. around houston, the steepest incline is usually the entrance to the wal-mart parking lot, so it was a bit over the top of my head when you said you "always use it." god forbid i'm in the mountains, i always use engine braking to help maintain speed while not overheating the brakes. exactly. a lot of the hills in my neighborhood have a stop sign or a traffic light at the very bottom of the hill so that makes it even worse. I learned about engine braking my first day as a tow truck driver, when i rolled back to the tow yard and the rear brakes were smoking like chimneys. The owner of the truck was not happy, to say the least. I specifically remember him telling me that "you can not drive this thing like a car. you need to use engine braking EVERYWHERE" i learned very quickly and now use the skill no matter what im driving Edited January 29, 2009 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmycapp Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 it should only take 30-45min each side, including bearing repack (not required, but recommended if you're already that far), caliper bleed, etc. that's a lot longer than the 3min it takes on other trucks, so it all depends on our laziness, cheapness, and the shop's costs for labor. Not to hijack, but why would you bleed the calipers if you never opened the system? Thanks, James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 Not to hijack, but why would you bleed the calipers if you never opened the system? Thanks, James because you have to push the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads. i don't force the fluid back into the master cylinder, though many people do. some vehicles (maybe not ours) can be damaged by doing this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 (edited) Let me give a rather definitive answer here: Downshifting on dry pavement - I sometimes drop down to second if I'm trying to scare someone that's tailgating me (drop in speed w/o brake lights) or if I only need to slow down JUST enough for the light to turn before I get to it... first gear I've used ONCE, and it was an emergency (box truck nearly tipped over he cut me off so bad... space behind me was clear but I was already in a tturn so I used 1st to temp-lock the rear wheels and push myself sideways... I cleared the dumbass by about 6 inches... I also nearly had to change my shorts as it was a WILD ass ride...) but other than that, you shouldn't really need to drop to 1st on dry pavement... In poor weather, however, downshifting is awesome. I use it a lot in icy/snowy conditions, especially on hills. It doesn't risk the wheel lockup that using brakes does, and, when combined with normal braking, can keep your wheels turning (and thus, you in control of the vehicle) during emergency maneuvers. Again, 2nd gear for the most part should suffice... 1st only if you're already below 25MPH and need to stop in a hurry... but if your'e in that situation and in poor traction, it's a 50/50 if it'll work or not. Yes, it puts some strain on the drivetrain... I'm no expert, but I don't think it'd be any more strain than, say, dropping the clutch in att 2500 rpm or doing a burnout... these are very well built machines tthat will take a lot of @!*% that other vehicles wouldn't. Just... don't TRY to destroy it... or it will break. And also - get your brakes checked. I know I have both rear rotors AND drums and front rotors. If that isn't enough to stop you quick, the extra force from downshifting will only serve to really lock your wheels... and that'll make you take LONGER to brake. Final Conclusion: Your brakes SHOULD be able to apply enough force to LOCK UP the wheels - the point just before that is your maximum threshold, which you CAN NOT change except by increasing TRACTION. My brakes cannot do this (I have the tiniest of leaks... they are working at 95% and I plan to get them checked as soon as I can physically afford it). Engine Braking helps in poor weather by PREVENTING wheel-lock. When your wheels lock, you lose at least half your available traction, you lose steering, and you lose the ability to rapidly decelerate. If friction brakes can push your traction past it's slipping point, then, obviously, adding in engine braking will only make it take longer by causing you to skid. If friction brakes can NOT push your traction past it's slipping point, then, obviously, adding in engine braking CAN make you stop faster - it also means it's time to get your brakes checked. Edited February 26, 2009 by Kittamaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 that wasn't definitive at all. i don't see your logic that engine braking will keep the tires from locking up, but i'm not going to re-open this can of worms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 alexrex, I edited my post to explain- sorry, just woke up so my brain's a bit fuzzy. Engine braking should keep the tires from locking because, if they lock - you simply give a touch of gas and they start spinning again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 This again?? Down shifting is far more applicable with MT than AT, period. Brakes stop you, period. If I couldn't avoid an emergency situation driving an AT by braking and steering, I doubt I would have time to 'down shift', much expect it to achieve much. The best I would hope from an AT is leave the OD off and let it do what it can, but I'd never expect to hook back up once it broke loose, etc. Why do I bother? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Why do I bother? i ask myself the same thing. but on the way home today, i was talking with my grandpa's friend's nephew who said that his math teacher was telling him of an incident where he locked up his brakes in his Pathfinder, so he rolled down all his windows to aid in braking by increasing aerodynamic drag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) I was simply explaining the logic behind it mate If your brakes are functioning right, you should be able to "break traction" with just the brakes. If this is the case, the only advantage to downshifting is in poor driving conditions, as it will help you to slow down without breaking traction since the wheels will still be turning. Other than that - brakes should stop you faster As far as opening the windows - eh... a parachute would be far more effective As for hooking back up - I'm assuming you mean re-gaining traction? If so - I figure it would work, though more so in 4x4 as you can use the front to pull yourself around and out... makes sense on paper anyway, but that doesn't always translate into practice Edited February 27, 2009 by Kittamaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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