jimmycapp

No thanks. Just another registration to expire and more tires to maintain (I've already got more than enough of both). Rear springs are cake to swap. And now the rear doesn't look bottomed with the 31's.

Nope. Stock front springs in the front and stock front springs in the back.

Haha. They snapped after removing , installing, and trying to remove again (lift install and out-stall)

Yes, I had the ac lift springs on it, but the front was always topped out;sitting still, driving. So I took those out, but was extremely unhappy with the rear springs. I measured the stock rear coil diameter, ac rear diameter, and front stock diameter, and the fronts measured right in the middle. I didn't do anything special when I put them in, tho, since the bolt that holds the bumpstops in the frame snapped off, so I bolted it to the lower spring rest.

Stock rims for a 2004.

Unloaded Loaded-granted, the bike only weights 226LBS

I run a dirtbike carrier on my pathfinder. The first time I put it on with a bike, it bottomed out the suspension, with it parked. I had some front springs lying around and threw those in. Sits a little raked with no load, but sits and rides perfect with the bike on, or a full load of firewood in the back. Too dark out now for some side shots, but I'll post some tomorrow. Cheers, James

Couple tips for guys with the 3.5. I changed the filter in my 04 a couple weeks ago, you DON'T need to remove the EXHAUST, or CROSS MEMBER. The exhaust is run differently so it's not in the way. The cross member seems to look the same compared to the pictures above, but a 1/4 drive deep socket slips right in, i had no problem getting at those 2. Have a rough idea of how much fluid you drain, it will help when refilling. I use an empty drain pan, drain the fluid, then pour into one of those 4 or 5 quart oil change jugs. Look on the side at how much you took out, then refill with that amount as a starting point. Oh, and be careful torquing the bolts on the pan, I set my wrench for 12 ftlbs and snapped a bolt.

Thanks for the responses. Since I was replacing the struts, I already had them out, and the cv came right out. Thanks!

The strut assembly will be off the truck when I'm doing this, which should help. Thanks

sooooo, do I have to un-bolt the lower?

Manual says remove lower control arm mounting bolts. I thought I red on here a while ago that this wasn't neccesary. Thought? James

I have some bearing chirp coming from my passenger side. I think it has to be p/s or alt because it did it on the old motor, and the p/s and alt are used on the new one. I'll try the hose trick to narrow it down. Good thinkin!

It came from an 04 pathfinder. Drove her to work today. Runnin smooth, man I missed her.

WOOOOOOOT!!!!! She runs! Just started her up 15 minutes ago, then sucked down a cold one. Install when much faster than removal. I found that the 2 top tranny bolts are incredibly easy to get to with 3 feet of extensions and a U joint. When I took them out it was hard and painfull and took about 20 minutes to get them out. I still need to bring her up to temp and top off coolant + tranny fluid. And then clean the disaster of a garage I have, for my grad party on saturday (only took me six years ) Cheers

I had both engines on the floor side by side and checked every hose, nipple and fitting. I hope I'm good. I had to swap over the oil cooler due to a bent line ( didn't know what the hell that thing was, had two coolant lines going to it, and oil coming out. lol) New plugs are in (NGK platinums a expensive!) I loc-tited the screws already with the engine on the ground. Paid $900 for the engine out the door. It came with intake, coils, sensors, O2's, pullies, cracked valve cover I had to swap from old one (they knocked $60 off for that), throttle body (though I replaced it with the one from the old engine, because I had to replace that one not too long ago, I guess the originals had problems.)

I searched around on car-parts.com and found one pretty local, cheaper than the ones in RI, 41k miles, and 3 month warranty. And free deliver. Came from Chuck and Eddies in Southington Ct. I had to work today, but I got out at 4 and swapped everything over from the old to new and was able to drop her in the engine bay, and align the tranny. That's enough for tonight. Took tomorrow off to finish install and HOPEFULLY start her up. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I don't get what all the fuss is about with locktiting the screws! All you need is a 12 mm socket, allen wrench, phillips head screw driver, locktit and some pliers for the 3 hoses you need to remove. It takes 10minutes so see the screws and maybe 10 to remove them 1 at a time and glue them. Just do it so you don't have to do what I did last night. Pulled engine thread

Edited first post

Pulled my engine yesterday because of the damn power screws and saw my passanger side cv boot ripped. Advance Auto has them for $60 with lifetime warrenty. Need to find out what that covers. Easier to change than rotors. Running AC lift with out manual hubs. Probably have 3-4000 miles on the lift. These are origional cv's with 80,000miles on them, so im not too surprised they ripped.

Your lucky. Not so much on mine. I pulled my motor yesterday. What a pain in the ass.

Pulled her out yesterday by the exhaust manifolds. Came out great. It was the 7.5 hours of dissassembly to that point that was the bitch. Before that, my buddy called the dealer and talked to the parts bitch. She informed us that the slingers are only availible to technicions. Ass. Told her that we were pulling the motor because of the Jack asses at nissan. She said we can have it in a week. They're on back order. F-her. But it's out, I'm tired and happy. Looking forward to putting the new one in and having it run. Got a motor with half the milage (41k miles) for 900. Free delivery and 3 month warrenty. We found out that the entire trans doesn't need to come out of car like the FSM calls for. So no need to remove rear drive shaft. Just remove trans mount bolts to cross member, and LOOSEN cross member bolts. There's plenty of room to move engine forward and out. Bell housing bolts and heat shield bolts were the worst part. The two upper BH bolts cannot be accessed from the top. You need to snake hand and ratchet from the passenger side and blindly attempt to get them out. On reassembly, I'm going to try and push tranny forward enough to get at top bolts from top of engine. Should speed things up quite a bit. Beer tasted delicious after that job.

Sorry I don't have any help, but how much time did it take to do that?

Guess what I found with my buddy's bore-cam....The F-ing screw impacted into my valve. Any idea for getting that out? Sorry for the bad pic, hard taking a picture of a refreshing screen.

Thanks everyone. That car parts site is great too!