SteeevO Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 after recently tearing the upper link mounts off of the frame with the torque of the atlas t-case, we went back to the drawing board and came up with this... can''t wait to have it on the trail! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Very cool. Let us know how it works out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 thats doesnt look like much triangulation, hows the side to side movement? let us know how it handles on/off the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 there is no side to side movement. and it's not bad on the road at all. The roll center is up to where body roll isn't nearly as bad as it used to be. and it's doesn't squat much at acceleration either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 That looks... different. Not sure what I'm looking at exactly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 ha no worries, It's a long arm 4-link. the upper links are triangulated and the panhard bar is no longer needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Looks like it might be time for a new drive shaft, you got a lot of spline showing on that slip joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Looks like it might be time for a new drive shaft, you got a lot of spline showing on that slip joint. depends on if he has a lot of up travel vs. droop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 (edited) there is only about an inch of spline showing. and i have a good 3.5 - 4" spline engagment. only about 2.5 is reqd This DS was custom made by JE Reel specifically for this truck. Edited January 22, 2009 by SteeevO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 there is only about an inch of spline showing. and i have a good 3.5 - 4" spline engagment. only about 2.5 is reqdThis DS was custom made by JE Reel specifically for this truck. any reason why your running the slip yolk at the bottom? wouldn't it stay cleaner at the top? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 Thats just way jim builds them, but now that i think about it, the other end is the custom end and it changes depending on whether or not you are running a CV-joint etc, since the CV is at the top, the other end will always uses a standard piece. which puts the slip yoke at the bottom,... which hasn't been a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Thats just way jim builds them, but now that i think about it, the other end is the custom end and it changes depending on whether or not you are running a CV-joint etc, since the CV is at the top, the other end will always uses a standard piece. which puts the slip yoke at the bottom,... which hasn't been a problem that makes sense, i didnt know you have a cv in there.... have you had any experience with ballistic joints? they had a chrome moly joint with the threaded stud now. i been thinking about using them on my SAS, i dont like the way the JJ's use a snap ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 I havn't had ANY problems with the JJs and yeah i'm running a CV along with an Atlas T/C . Will post pics soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver123 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Thats what i need to do to my pathy, im getting a lot of side to side movement nowadays and its pissing me off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmgar99 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Steeev0....who welded the cross piece on top of the pumpkin? Your setup is kind of what i was thinking of doing to my R50, but i'm a little scared to weld anything to the pumpkin or axle shafts for fear of warpage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Steeev0....who welded the cross piece on top of the pumpkin? Your setup is kind of what i was thinking of doing to my R50, but i'm a little scared to weld anything to the pumpkin or axle shafts for fear of warpage... you wont warp anything if you tack everything up then weld in short beads alternating sides so you dont generate too much heat in one spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packie88 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 the tops triangulated but what about the bottom. for a triangulated 4 link dont you need the lower links triangulated as well. with the upper links typically going \ / and the lower links going / \. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 the tops triangulated but what about the bottom. for a triangulated 4 link dont you need the lower links triangulated as well. with the upper links typically going \ / and the lower links going / \. thats what i was thinking, but in this case it would be opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) how are its street manners? with the triangluion and the johnnys. how about over 70? I may want to do this one day but I still wanna be able to do road trips with it. p.s. since I won't be doing triangulation anytime soon; I was wondering if you had any plans for your panhard drop bracket? I was gonna make one @ work but if if you don't need yours... Edited January 29, 2009 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Steeeeevo, are those Bilstein shocks? and whats the travel on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yozsi Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Awesome, i was planning to do the same. I have to fix the rear geometry of mine because i get too much rear steer and all kinds of crap =/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Steeev0....who welded the cross piece on top of the pumpkin? Your setup is kind of what i was thinking of doing to my R50, but i'm a little scared to weld anything to the pumpkin or axle shafts for fear of warpage... I'm looking at turning this rear suspension into a production part sometime in the next few months, but this was done by Toyota Masters in Colton, CA by Jay King. He does great work. the tops triangulated but what about the bottom. for a triangulated 4 link dont you need the lower links triangulated as well. with the upper links typically going \ / and the lower links going / \. Only the top needs to be triangulated. how are its street manners? with the triangluion and the johnnys. how about over 70?I may want to do this one day but I still wanna be able to do road trips with it. p.s. since I won't be doing triangulation anytime soon; I was wondering if you had any plans for your panhard drop bracket? I was gonna make one @ work but if if you don't need yours... Street Manners have been greatly improved over what i had in there before. being SAS'd it doesn't drive as good as it was IFS but i still can drive on the hwy with little trouble. 65mph is not a problem. Steeeeevo, are those Bilstein shocks? and whats the travel on them? yes, those are bilstein 12" travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'm looking at turning this rear suspension into a production part sometime in the next few months, but this was done by Toyota Masters in Colton, CA by Jay King. He does great work. well if you move as fast as you've been moving with the johnny links I guess we'll see the kit next month? JK take your time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 haha yeah, i want to beat the hell out of this setup before anyone else runs it on the trail. the johnny links are already a proven design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'm looking at turning this rear suspension into a production part sometime in the next few months, but this was done by Toyota Masters in Colton, CA by Jay King. He does great work.Only the top needs to be triangulated. Street Manners have been greatly improved over what i had in there before. being SAS'd it doesn't drive as good as it was IFS but i still can drive on the hwy with little trouble. 65mph is not a problem. yes, those are bilstein 12" travel. are the 12" long enough for the front? i have (4) 13" trailmasters im planning on using on mine. for some reason they dont look long enough either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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