Kingman Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Wiring up my stereo, bypassing everything stock... The fuse on the back of the deck keeps blowing, and its frustrating the hell out of me I have it hooked up to ACC and in line fused to the battery (15A) and ground. Am I missing something? The in line fuse doesn't blow, but the 15A on the back of the deck does. WTF. Do I need to fuse the power from the ACC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 When that happened to me it just needed a better ground, I also found that for some odd reason when I turn on my AC my radio fuse blows, and I have an 88. just double check your wires to make sure they are all tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 When that happened to me it just needed a better ground, I also found that for some odd reason when I turn on my AC my radio fuse blows, and I have an 88. just double check your wires to make sure they are all tight. As far as I can tell, they're all good. Shrink wrapped, the whole nine yards. I forgot to mention I changed my ground 3 flippin times, as soon as power hits the deck the fuse blows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeetleBailey Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Be sure the stereo cage is grounded and the antenna is plugged in all the way. I would also be sure the stereo harness is plugged in all the way. Bailey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 ok this is a really stupid question bit it almost sounds like you got the ground and the power hooked up backwards. I have seen that happen before and it was doing the exact same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 (edited) That would make sense I can double check on mine. Ok I checked mine and the red is connected to the green wire with the orange solid strip and the yellow(constant power) is connected to the green wire with the white solid strip. Hope that helps. Edited December 6, 2008 by trogdor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 That would make sense I can double check on mine.Ok I checked mine and the red is connected to the green wire with the orange solid strip and the yellow(constant power) is connected to the green wire with the white solid strip. Hope that helps. I agree, this fuse popping sounds like a grounding problem to me. I only have a wiring diagram for a 95. I dont see a green/orange wire but I do see a green/red. Green/red is a power wire. So if it is the same your are grounding to a power wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 It was kinda dark when I looked so it is probably green red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 ok this is a really stupid question bit it almost sounds like you got the ground and the power hooked up backwards. I have seen that happen before and it was doing the exact same thing. The wiring harness/clip to the deck labels 15A power, ACC, and ground. Yellow, red, and black, respectively. I ran my own wires, because whoever did the last stereo install left a nice mess of jumbled stock wiring in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeetleBailey Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 It really sounds like a grounding problem to me. You are using the "chassis" for your ground correct? Is the stereo new or used? Are you connecting it to amps? Are you sure the "power antenna wire" isn't grounding out? Just things to possibly look at. Bailey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Are you sure the deck itself isn't fried from random adventures in wiring? You can test it straight at the battery, just use an inline fuse on the power side to be safe. Constant and ACC (red and yellow) to the + battery terminal, black to -. If you have a speaker sitting around, you can hook that up and pop in a cd to verify the thing is fully functional. It should power up fine with or without an antenna. You say you bypassed stock, which is fine with the cheesy wiring in these trucks. But what did you tap into for + and ACC? At the fuse block, battery, etc.? You shouldn't need to have an inline fuse for ACC, but it doesn't hurt things, especially if you're rewiring and such. Its better to be on the safe side. I'd vote to step back and double check everything. Pull the stereo and test it off the battery to make sure you're starting with a good unit. Verify a good solid ground, not just to the stereo chassis that sits in the dash, but run another to solid metal. Confirm all power connections are good. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 (edited) Are you sure the deck itself isn't fried from random adventures in wiring? You can test it straight at the battery, just use an inline fuse on the power side to be safe. Constant and ACC (red and yellow) to the + battery terminal, black to -. If you have a speaker sitting around, you can hook that up and pop in a cd to verify the thing is fully functional. It should power up fine with or without an antenna. You say you bypassed stock, which is fine with the cheesy wiring in these trucks. But what did you tap into for + and ACC? At the fuse block, battery, etc.? You shouldn't need to have an inline fuse for ACC, but it doesn't hurt things, especially if you're rewiring and such. Its better to be on the safe side. I'd vote to step back and double check everything. Pull the stereo and test it off the battery to make sure you're starting with a good unit. Verify a good solid ground, not just to the stereo chassis that sits in the dash, but run another to solid metal. Confirm all power connections are good. Good luck! The only thing I have hooked up to the deck is the power wires. The deck is 2 years old and came out of my buddy's Cherokee, which was professionally installed and uninstalled when he bought it new at Audio Source and we had it bench tested at Audio Source before he gave it to me, and it works fine. The power wires I'm using I bought from them as well, which I got a lot in bulk and are colored yellow, red, and black. The ground is grounding to a big ass screw that goes to nothing on the firewall. That was the first ground I tried, then I tried the frame, no luck. The constant power I have hooked up directly to the battery via a terminal connector and the 15A inline fuse. The ACC, I'm not sure what it's to. There was a random wiring harness underneath the dash that had a few wires running to it, but didn't connect to anything at all. Looks like something a dealership would use for some reason. It's an ACC powered harness so I used the power line from that. I put electrical tape over the ends of the speaker wire that comes from the back of the deck to make sure those weren't touching at all. I don't even have an speakers installed yet. I have not installed my subwoofer and amp because of the stock alternator. I also don't have the antenna installed. Just power for now. Edited December 7, 2008 by kingman92010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 Can you snap a pic of your wiring situation? Might help diagnosis. BTW, you can ground to the metal dash support just fine, no need running a long ground anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 8, 2008 Author Share Posted December 8, 2008 Can you snap a pic of your wiring situation? Might help diagnosis. BTW, you can ground to the metal dash support just fine, no need running a long ground anywhere. lol which one...the rats nest in my dash or what? There's only 3 wires going to my deck ATM... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Damnit, my deck is bad I tested it at the battery and the fuse blew a few times. That sucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) i have an OK older sony that I could probably ship to ya for like $25 for the time being the only thing is you probably want to bypass the factory amps (or at least in the 95 when i got it and the reason i yanked it b/c the beeps it makes through the amps damn near breaks the ear drums no matter how soft its turned) PM me if interested it was last tested/used about 2 months ago when diagnosing my neighbors silverado when it was found that his head unit has a ground loop so he upgraded to some crazy expensive radio after borrowing mine for a few weeks PM if interested and i can take pix or whatever Edited December 9, 2008 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) Sorry to hear your head unit is toast, but that's what I suspected... You can fry one quick with a slip of a live line, etc. You can find a decent new or used one (thanks UNCC) here or on eBay. As far as questionable or "long" grounds being mentioned, there is no need to have something long to the battery or elsewhere. I'm just super-skeptical as far as chassis grounding a stereo at its chassis or stock ground. In the least, run a fresh ground from the stereo chassis mount in the dash to a known or solid ground. The most basic would be to drill a small screw to the body directly, scraping away any paint to make sure of a clean contact, and run as short a wire as possible in as big gauge wire as is available and reasonable. I've gone through tons of wiring issues on mine, from stereo to lighting to engine and such. I've also wired a dozen or so stereo's at least, from stock replacements to a few thousand watts of amps and such. My biggest suggestions would be to NEVER trust the stock wiring junk. This is Nissan's weakest link in my book. When in doubt, always suspect the wiring. And when replacing, always run it clean to the source, insulated and prepped, to bypass any shorted junk, and always verify voltage and make sure you have a clean and solid ground. I just won a long battle with my windshield washer, which refused to work but the motor tested fine, no blown fuse, etc. Come to find out, I had 8v at the plug terminal, even though it ran a test light fine, ran the motor when wired with a jumper wire, etc. I ended up wiring in a new relay and wire off the battery to the 8v switched power, which was still plenty to power the relay and then on to the washer. I had a very similar thing with my ignition circuit, the line from the key ignition down to the starter was toast, which I rewired. The point being, if in doubt with these trucks, rewire. Or at least test it with a new chunk of wire with and inline fuse straight to the battery. If you can remove the part/item and test it directly, do so. These trucks are screwy and will leave you scratching your head if you don't go in solid. Edited December 9, 2008 by Mr. Pickles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Sorry to hear your head unit is toast, but that's what I suspected... You can fry one quick with a slip of a live line, etc. You can find a decent new or used one (thanks UNCC) here or on eBay. As far as questionable or "long" grounds being mentioned, there is no need to have something long to the battery or elsewhere. I'm just super-skeptical as far as chassis grounding a stereo at its chassis or stock ground. In the least, run a fresh ground from the stereo chassis mount in the dash to a known or solid ground. The most basic would be to drill a small screw to the body directly, scraping away any paint to make sure of a clean contact, and run as short a wire as possible in as big gauge wire as is available and reasonable. I've gone through tons of wiring issues on mine, from stereo to lighting to engine and such. I've also wired a dozen or so stereo's at least, from stock replacements to a few thousand watts of amps and such. My biggest suggestions would be to NEVER trust the stock wiring junk. This is Nissan's weakest link in my book. When in doubt, always suspect the wiring. And when replacing, always run it clean to the source, insulated and prepped, to bypass any shorted junk, and always verify voltage and make sure you have a clean and solid ground. I just won a long battle with my windshield washer, which refused to work but the motor tested fine, no blown fuse, etc. Come to find out, I had 8v at the plug terminal, even though it ran a test light fine, ran the motor when wired with a jumper wire, etc. I ended up wiring in a new relay and wire off the battery to the 8v switched power, which was still plenty to power the relay and then on to the washer. I had a very similar thing with my ignition circuit, the line from the key ignition down to the starter was toast, which I rewired. The point being, if in doubt with these trucks, rewire. Or at least test it with a new chunk of wire with and inline fuse straight to the battery. If you can remove the part/item and test it directly, do so. These trucks are screwy and will leave you scratching your head if you don't go in solid. The stock wiring definitely scared me a little, there's a lot of mumbo jumbo in there. 20 min later I was back home with new power wires, and speaker wire. I don't like the concept of using ANYTHING stock when it comes to stereo wiring, no matter what the car. I like to know what I have done, and how I did it, and know that I dont have to worry about old, shoddy wiring. The ground I decided to permanantly use is a random screw and washer on my inner fender. I think this is what the previous owner might have used, because it goes to absolutely nothing. It's just there. Everything else for the most part seems to be well put together, just not the wiring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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