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95 V6 poor heat, makes for whiny kids!


tmoore4512
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Okay so I bought this Pathfinder and drive it daily to work. I take my kids to school and pick them up as well. During these months it has been mid 20 degree weather. I have to start my truck around 10 to 15 minutes prior to departing just to take the edge off, not to mention helps defrost a little bit...

 

My mother in law has a 96 maxima, and had her heater go out. I had to jack the front end of the vehicle around 38 inches up to bleed the air out of the heater core...now it works great...until the air leaks back in...(she doesnt want to pay to have the leak fixed.)

 

My pathfinder leaks oil, not coolant...how do I rectify this issue...if I cant, I am selling the beast...lol

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Could be a stuck thermostat or your clutch fan could be seized. With the engine off, and cold, try to spin the fan. It should spin pretty freely.

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I apologize for not making it clear. It will BLOW you out of the truck...as far as CFM's is concerned. The air temperature is the issue. If sitting still it will warm up a little bit, but once you go down the road it cant keep up. Not 100% sure if the temperature of the air changes I dont think it does, but more or less just cant keep up with the cold outside. If that makes sense.

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Also, clutch on the fan is good to go...was afraid the t-stat was part of it...not too happy about trying to get to it...looks like a daunting task...

 

If I recall correctly - it's been a while:

 

Drain coolant, remove upper radiator hose, remove thermostat housing, replace thermostat.

 

 

Also, do you have the manual or the automatic climate controls? The manual control set has the typical red-blue slider indicator for temperature, the automatic has actual numbers written on the temp slider and is ranged in blue-gray-red.

Edited by GhostPath
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Obviously that is the way it SHOULD be. Hahaha...the housing the contains the t-stat is BURIED...alot of stuff has to come off to get to it...

Edited by tmoore4512
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Obviously that is the way it SHOULD be. Hahaha...the housing the contains the t-stat is BURIED...alot of stuff has to come off to get to it...

 

 

Oh wait, yeah, the thing's in the front of the engine, isn't it.

 

Still, not a problem, actually. You just have to take the fan off, that's all.

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Ive been a GM man for many years, built multiple trucks frame up...always swore I wouldnt own an import because of the tightly knit engine bays. None the less, now I venture into unchartered waters...

 

is there anything else in that general area that is considered a "wear part" that you guys would reccomend changing while I have it apart?

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The Pathfinder's got a nice, spacious engine bay compared to many, many GM products.

 

GMC Syclone:

engine2.jpg

 

Olds Intrigue:

800px-3.5L_V6_Shortstar.jpg

 

Well, the belts are a wear item, and you'll probably have to remove them to get to the thermostat.

 

By the way, how many miles are on the truck and when was the last time the timing belt was done?

Edited by GhostPath
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Once again I apologize, I was referencing the older model's stopping at around 1988.

 

Truck has 200997 miles on it. I bought it with 199981 miles on it. I have no idea when the timing belt was changed. I imagine that would be a good one to adress as well.

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Absolutely. Get the T-belt changed ASAP. You'll want to do, at least, the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and tensioner. Some folks do the cam seals while they're in there, but I like to leave well enough alone on that one.

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I apologize for not making it clear. It will BLOW you out of the truck...as far as CFM's is concerned. The air temperature is the issue. If sitting still it will warm up a little bit, but once you go down the road it cant keep up. Not 100% sure if the temperature of the air changes I dont think it does, but more or less just cant keep up with the cold outside. If that makes sense.

 

Do you have it set for "recirculate"?

 

It maybe kind of a newb observation, but with it getting colder when you accelerate, it sounds like you might be trying to warm up air that you're drawing in from outside.

 

Or not. I dunno... But a second look beats getting into the t-stat anytime.

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Change the timing belt ASAP.... unless you want to drop 9+bills on a new motor.... I did...

 

Fluid levels??? if its too low it wont blow hot... Bubble in the system...

When you move the temp selector is it easy? hard? a little resistance??

 

My daughter complains about the heat in the 92... it always works for me....

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eh, i notice my temp guage never gets far off the cold mark if its under 40 degrees out. i shove card board infront of about half the radiator and it help out a ton.

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Timing belt is on the list of "to do," Yes selector is in the recirc position, fluid levels are good, temp gauge has NEVER climbed over an 1/8 inch. Temp selector moves well, not too much resitance, yet not too loosely either. I may try the cardboard, and see how that does just for kicks. I am really not looking forward to tearing the whole front of my motor off just to change the t-stat...but such is life!

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Umm.. timing belt needs to move to "do it now."

 

The timing belt is supposed to be changed every 105K on your model. Nissan's not kidding about that, either. If the timing belt goes, you either rebuild your engine or install another one.

 

If your thermostat is broken, chances are good that your water pump is going to go soon, too. If that goes, you get to do the timing belt, assuming that the belt doesn't go right away. Your Pathy is telling you "do the maintenance or I'm about to get really expensive".

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Not sure if that's normal. Mine would always climb up to about half guage when I had the clutch fan on it. It's starting to sound like the t'stat is the culprit to me.

Mine goes 1/4 of the way up in city driving but these days it hardly goes over the cold bar on the highway, for obvious reasons.

 

I've heard they give you some leeway on the tbelt by a couple thousand miles, but i wouldn't push it, doing mine this spring.

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By "to do" I meant when I adress the heat issue. Unfortunately I am not sure how many people had this truck before me, nor how hard they were on it...it is in VERY good shape for the mileage. None the less, belts, t-stat, water pump and timing belt are all in line...I drove a hardbody pickup for several months a while back that had the v6, it ran about 1/4 to half gauge all the time. I am curious if my gauge is just broken...it is an electrical unit right?

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By "to do" I meant when I adress the heat issue. Unfortunately I am not sure how many people had this truck before me, nor how hard they were on it...it is in VERY good shape for the mileage. None the less, belts, t-stat, water pump and timing belt are all in line...I drove a hardbody pickup for several months a while back that had the v6, it ran about 1/4 to half gauge all the time. I am curious if my gauge is just broken...it is an electrical unit right?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=WD21-TBKITB

 

Add to that a new crank sprocket, keyway and maybe the Nissan silicone (which is neat stuff) and you're all set.

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everything people have been listing is definatly important to think about. but i'd try to at least narrow down the root of the actual problem rather than shotgunning and doing a lot of work (which actually still should be done) but ending up with a truck that is still cold.

 

id start with the engine cold. start er up. keep track of the temp of the upper and lower radiator hose. the hose without the thermo will get warm first, the other will stay relitivly cold until when (and if) the thermostat decides to pop. then both hoses will get very hot pretty darn quick. when this happens you know that your thermo is working. if the pathy overheats, then you know its not.

 

if it pops, and while the truck is warm and running, turn on the heater to full blast, such as it is right now. feel the heater hoses the go into/out of the firewall. if there is a significant difference in temp between the two hoses, then your problem is almost positivly a clogged heater core, which is a total PITA to do yourself OR try to pay for. if the temp on the hoses are about the same id suspect an air bubble... though it is also possible that the water pump has taken a crap and just isint circulating the coolant, though with it taking as long as it does to warm up thats probobly the longest shot.

 

just thought i thrown in my two cents.

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