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found one broken stud


german996
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Wow, what I was afraid of just happenned, one broken stud and one loose nut (me), my PF is not lifted, I will replace the existing studs with the nissan 300 ones, my question is if anybody without the lift kit had already replaced them through the wheel well , or because mine is not lifted I will have trouble doing it?, what a bummer, mine is automatic also, it has been ticking since day one (2 years ago) , and today removed the shield and found the little surprise.

Are we only having problems with the passenger side only , or the driver side will eventually brake?, can I keep driving the thing ?my only transportation.

 

regards

German996

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You can keep driving, it won't harm anything (except maybe another stud). I think that's where my ticking is coming from too... I just don't want to spend money on that right now :lol:

Edited by LD50
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I was saving up some money to do the timing belt and other more important stuff, like water pump, pulleys, belts and hoses...

german

 

On my sig below, those are the 3 things I am saving to get everything worked/fixed. The oil leak and water pump leak is a major , need to do very soon repair, but I am getting all three things done this next weekend / I hope

 

I read that ld50 said it will not hard the exhaust manifold, but w/ driving it always like that, you can fail state emission (if you have it) and also you could harm the manifold and warp it or even crack it--- or at least this is what I been told.

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I read that ld50 said it will not hard the exhaust manifold, but w/ driving it always like that, you can fail state emission (if you have it) and also you could harm the manifold and warp it or even crack it--- or at least this is what I been told.

 

Yes that could happen. I'm not worried about mine too much because when I do decide to fix it, I'll likely upgrade headers too.

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Yes that could happen. I'm not worried about mine too much because when I do decide to fix it, I'll likely upgrade headers too.

 

 

I asked that question also, but that is not the remedy to repair the manifold. Either way the manifold is not expense to replace for a new one. Seen them on carparts.com for like 35.00 each.

 

I just hate the ticking and also I bet when the bolts broken, it does loose some of the HP from the motor. Can't wait to get mine fixed though...

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i had 6 busted on mini.......... needless to say i pulled the motor........ she has no front end lift. PITA to do anything in there BUT dooable ;)

i am suprised you notice the ticking with just 1 stud busted. mini hardly ticked until all 6 broke. then it was unbearable lol

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i had 6 busted on mini.......... needless to say i pulled the motor........ she has no front end lift. PITA to do anything in there BUT dooable ;)

i am suprised you notice the ticking with just 1 stud busted. mini hardly ticked until all 6 broke. then it was unbearable lol

 

 

Mine ticking on 2 busted. Its annoying as heck also.

Sounds like a valve tap. lol .

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well , It has that ticking noise since day one (2 YEARS AGO), BUT i thought it was an exhaust leak due to a leakey exhaust gasket, like every other nissan maxima that I have heard, I am a motorcycle tech for GP motorcycles in San Diego (Italian motorcycles), but it was not until I joined npora that I got curious about the noise and decided yesterday to remove the heat shield and dyscover the problem to be a broken stud, I have to confess that I am totally intimidated on working in my PF, got use to just working in motorcycles for the last ten years...and that spoiled me.

 

regards'

 

German996

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I wouldn't worry about one stud being broken. People drive for thousands of miles with leaky exhaust manifolds with little to no ill effects.

 

Yes that could happen. I'm not worried about mine too much because when I do decide to fix it, I'll likely upgrade headers too.

 

 

I asked that question also, but that is not the remedy to repair the manifold. Either way the manifold is not expense to replace for a new one. Seen them on carparts.com for like 35.00 each.

 

I just hate the ticking and also I bet when the bolts broken, it does loose some of the HP from the motor. Can't wait to get mine fixed though...

 

How exactly does replacing the leaky manifolds with headers not fix the leaking problem again? I also really doubt it loses any HP unless you're leaking horribly. One broken stud will not cause a noticeable loss in power.

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How exactly does replacing the leaky manifolds with headers not fix the leaking problem again?

 

Well, it would only make sense to replace the studs and remove any broken ones at the same time. :crossedwires:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just so that everyone knows, when I knew I had two busted exhaust manifold bolts on the passenger side and then after taking out the motor, I found out that the driver side exhaust manifold was cracked right in half. Yeppers!!

 

What fun this job was. Now I basically has almost new everything. Water pump, T-belt, belts, thermostat, all gaskets from the small block and up, rear main seal, oil pan gasket and spark plugs. Keep in mind that if you remove the motor, you will need to replace the motor mounts also. :)

 

Sorry for the cell phone pics:

engineout.jpg

 

Where is the engine?? lol

 

noengine.jpg

 

Edited by Xmas
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Hi Darren, if you look in search section you will find that part number 14065-v5004 is the revised exhaust manifold studs, basically from the nissan 300 zx twin turbo, they cost around 8 us dollars..

 

 

regrds

German96

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  • 2 months later...

Does anyone one have an explanation or directions on accessing the manifold studs on a stock pathy while the engine is still in? My 95 ticked since they day I got it but lately seems worse. The only time I've even seen a manifold stud was when I was changing the alt. I tightened one loose one and put a new nut on one that was missing one since I was in there, but When I'm under the pathy I just cant figure out how to get to the others. :shrug:

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Does anyone one have an explanation or directions on accessing the manifold studs on a stock pathy while the engine is still in? My 95 ticked since they day I got it but lately seems worse. The only time I've even seen a manifold stud was when I was changing the alt. I tightened one loose one and put a new nut on one that was missing one since I was in there, but When I'm under the pathy I just cant figure out how to get to the others. :shrug:

 

 

You might be able to access them through the fender wells if you remove your rubber gap guards. Not sure though the first thing I did to my pathfinder was put a body lift on.

 

Mark

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I'm confused... just what studs are you talking about guys?

 

The studs that hold the exhaust manifold to the head... On the side of the motor. It's like a double sided bolt.

 

In every way I've looked, I still can find a way to drill out my 1 broken stud while it's still in the truck (P-side furthest back). How hard are the heads to remove?

Mines, not ticking yet, but I'm sure the manifold will work loose eventually.

Edited by crazyahseed
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What are the chances my 1990's have at least one broken stud?

 

*grins slightly* Still not 100% sure what I'm looking at in that picture, but when it comes time to do my headers I guess I'll learn :)

 

The fun thing for me is going to be this summers transmission rebuild... in my garage. One week, me and the Tranny, 4 hours a day. I want to do this since the stock tranny coolers all it's had for the last 18 years :P

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What are the chances my 1990's have at least one broken stud?

 

*grins slightly* Still not 100% sure what I'm looking at in that picture, but when it comes time to do my headers I guess I'll learn :)

 

Chances are pretty high.

 

Diagrams are fun... FSMftw

WD21Manifold.jpg

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we just did the studs on our 95. We had to drill out 2 studs on the passenger side and 1 stud on the drivers side. All the others we pulled out and replaced as well with the new upgraded studs. Took me about 5 hours of fiddly work, since you have to be very careful that you get the holes drilled straight and that you dont go to far. Used 3 sizes of cobalt drill bits on slow speed, then tapped out the holes. Accessed the studs through the inner fenders after removing the rubber inner liners. We also had installed a 2" B/L so that gave us a little more space. We also relocated the oil filter with a remote and put on headers, new O2 sensor, muffler and pipe. (we did not replace the cat and should have since I think it is partially plugged so thats the next job). The whole process took me one weekend of work and we have been pleased with the result

Edited by indomwe
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