indomwe

OK Rich, I need your frame........give it over ......lol

corderio, I assume that you have found the lift supports that you need on the advance site now and dont need the link. heres the link to a couple of sites for body lifts and suspension lifts if you have not already found these. http://www.4x4parts.com http://www.purenissan.com/suspension1.htm And this thread will give you all sorts of good links to stuff and info... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5343 Also if you have a diesel then it would be worth while to talk to the aussies and the kiwis on this forum since a lot of the pathys in Oz and NZ are also diesel so they should be able to give you good advice. Good luck with your truck

I just bought two from Advance Autoparts and I paid $18 and change for each for them. took me about 15 minutues to install them

you can do it yourself in about a day if you have some help from a friend or 2. We did ours in 1 day using B/L from 4x4. came out exzcellent. Simon has a good description on how he did his and we just followed. there is also a DIY on the forum so check that out. Its not a hard job. We did headers just after the B/L and they were easy as well even considering we had to drill out some studs. I was glad we did the B/L first since it gave us more access room to do the headers

Thanks keep me posted on how it goes. I want to do the same so I look forward to the pic's

Has anyone done a transmission swap from an automatic to a manual. what needs to be done??

We have 15x8 with a 3.75 offset and 31x10.50, they stick out just nice.

not much there, only pages 1 to 4 - the quick reference guide???

ok ok, I found the thread I needed here on the forum and it has all the info I need. thanks guys for keeping a great forum going..............

Looking for advice on buying the parts and installing an external tranny cooler for 95 pathy SE auto. What do I need to buy, are there packages available and whats involved in installing. I did a quick serach and did not find much. what parts to buy How does the install go. (I heard that it is not a difficult install)

hey 95shakinPE, thanks I'll check it out. let me know if you get yours working

I was reading the Mileage thread the other day then went and checked the mileage we have and discovered a major problem. Our odometer is NOT working, the speedo works fine but we are not clocking up mileage. This is no good, we will never catch up to the high mileage pathy's unless I get this fixed, and that aint no good ..!!!! Can anyone enlighten me on what the problem might be ? its a 95 and I think I read somewhere on the forum that the speedo is electric ? would that also be the same with the odometer?? Perhaps the electric gremlins are still playing funny buggers with our truck?? Gezz ........what next !!

If you are worried about rust best thing to do is to build or buy some stainless steel headers. We have pacesetters and yes they rust but thats no big deal. I have had rusted headers on a hotrod that I built years ago and they still work just fine. in fact they are now all the rage cuz its the "rat rod" era. Plus on a pathy rusty headers fit right in with the rusty frame...........lol

We have a set of pacesetters on a pathy and they fitted perfectly. No problems at all and they have stood up really well. they are much cheaper than Thorleys and work just as well. I certainly would not be scared of using pacesetters.

Kiwipete, i am sure that you can easily get an idler arm bracket fabricated in kiwi if the LHD one cannot be used. I am sure that you can get any local fab shop to make one for you. My brother who races cars in auckland (main land...lol) could easily get one made for you if needed. I plan to put this kit on our pathy here so I could give you some measurements for your use to fab a mirror image bracket if needed. I think for certs that will still work. .

We used the part numbers for the 300zx and purchased new studs, washers and nuts for both sides from our local stealer for $89 installed them all when we installed the headers, so far so good.

95 with 139,000 miles, a rusty frame in need of "chemo" and a little bit of skin cancer that good surgical procedure will take care of. Heart is good so a few more marathons left to run yet

Son of a gun though ..!!!! If I had read the other thread currently on the forum regarding "black box under the drivers seat" I would have realized that before pulling the alarm and all the wiring we should have checked to see we could have gotten the keyless entry working.

thanks for the advice. we got the alarm out today. it appeared that someone had wired in a remote start and used the alarm harness to connect it up. that was paret of our demons problem, we removed the remote start, the alarm and all the harness and now everything is working. the truck is happy again.......

Yup, six on each side. If you are pulling the manifolds to fix a stud then I suggest you change them all out at the same time

we just did the studs on our 95. We had to drill out 2 studs on the passenger side and 1 stud on the drivers side. All the others we pulled out and replaced as well with the new upgraded studs. Took me about 5 hours of fiddly work, since you have to be very careful that you get the holes drilled straight and that you dont go to far. Used 3 sizes of cobalt drill bits on slow speed, then tapped out the holes. Accessed the studs through the inner fenders after removing the rubber inner liners. We also had installed a 2" B/L so that gave us a little more space. We also relocated the oil filter with a remote and put on headers, new O2 sensor, muffler and pipe. (we did not replace the cat and should have since I think it is partially plugged so thats the next job). The whole process took me one weekend of work and we have been pleased with the result

Yahoo, we have our electrical demons solved and are back on the road. Truck now starts with the key and is behaving normally. Seems like someone did try to install a remote starter prior to our buying the truck and we have managed to trace all the wiring which was all messed up. All the wiring has now been checked out the remote starter stuff removed, factory wiring repaired so that everything works and factory alarm has also been removed to stop the damn truck from yelling at everyone when you tried to lock the doors. We have a much happier truck..............

hell if you have 320,000 on the truck and you can get the rebuild done for $2800 then you will be good for another 320,000, thats a cheap ride in this day and age. I say go for it............

If you find a good deal let me know cuz I would also like some as well. Also given the frame rust issue I have been thinking of welding strengthening plates down each side before installing sliders Maybe 1/4in??

Is the alarm hooked up to the main horn or does it have its own separate siren???